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Patch Out: Recommended

not even close


Run a bronze bristle across your skin, then a carbon fiber rod, and get back to me. :)

Possibly neither of them really do much to affect carbon / stainelss steel, but there's no question that a bronze bristle plowed thru the bore is more abrasive than a carbon fiber rod just glancing the lands.
 
I see Gunsmiths use Brass hammers and punches (maybe) because they won’t damage the product.
My bronze brush breaks down and has to be replaced often while my Nylon brush last forever.
I’m confident the bronze does no harm not so sure about the nylon.
 
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I see Gunsmiths use Brass hammers and punches maybe because they won’t damage the product.
My bronze brush breaks down and has to be replaced often while my Nylon brush last forever.
I’m confident the bronze does no harm not so sure about the nylon.


Thats bcuz nylon flexxes alot, where bronze doesnt as much and "breaks down"
 
@garandman
Take a bronze brush, pushing down while stroking it against a barrel (or piece of steel) for several dozen passes or more.
Do the same with what ever you want to see surface effects from (more then one way to "skin a cat").
Then come back and tell us of ACTUAL results and what differences there truly are.

PS... barrel stubs are useful to test/simulate theories on and in (hint...hint)

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I use something called Montana something. It seems to work well for me. If you want a shock, try using your solvent and then cleaning with patches. Usually after a few patches, everything will look hunky dory. Clean it again with solvent and before pushing your bronze brush down the tube send a patch down there. Now observe all the pretty green color on the patch.

To get the copper out, I usually clean using those round pellets with JB past, mixed with Krolil oil. this will get 99% of the copper out in short order.
 
Bottom line, Bronze is a copper based alloy. Stainless steel and carbon steel are steel. Bronze is much softer than steel. closer to plastic than steel. You will not damage a barrel with a bronze brush unless you run it every day, day after day for a lifetime. If you look at enough barrels through a bore scope you will soon realize that that the process of creating a barrel damages the barrel much more than cleaning tools ever can. I've looked at new lapped match barrels that were as smooth as a baby's butt and shot like shit. I've looked at barrels that look like the lands were cut by hand with a chisel and they have shot lights out. I've looked at barrels that were fire cracked 1/4 of the length of the barrel and still shoot lights out. That diamond like hard carbon ring and layers in the lands that build up will screw you up more than cleaning ever can. They result in pressure changes the screw up your load development process. Getting rid of it is painful and labor intensive. There is no magic potion that I have ever found. I'm fighting carbon buildup in a 6.5 prc match barrel as we speak. I will never stop looking for a magic potion in spite of knowing that it does not exist. Overbored cartridges and rifles which have been shot to extreme temps seem to create that diamond like carbon layer more than others. It seems to be a product of heat and pressure. Vary either to the extremes and you have it. Keep scrubbing, it will come out but the gun may never shoot like you think it should. Rebarrel, repeat and have fun trying to overcome the laws of thermodynamics.
 
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The magic tool is a stainless steel brush used with ISSO/JB, carby cleaner and lots of 4 x 2 rolled on to a stiff bristle brush. Don't harangue me till you have tried it. A borescope is a must to watch progress. Over cleaning without clean bore treatment is also a contributor to issues. Some powders are not used in the best combinations for cleanest burn and barrels must be cleaned out frequently, good combinations will go for 150 rounds or more before the groups start to spread or MV increases then a light clean is all that is needed.
 
I watched a new Rem Blued Varmint get ruined by a Stainless brush in ten strokes....looked like a polygonal rifling!!
 
I have used both types of brushes ( not SS ) with different products and have found in conjunction with the Hawkeye they all pretty much work only needing a different amount of patches/product and elbow grease. Some powders & barrels clean up better/easier than others. I think the Hawkeye for me really is a necessary piece of equipment. Once I know the cleaning regime for the barrel I am using the Hawkeye doesn't need to be used during a match, but the end of the day cleaning I will give it a look.

Regards
Rick
 
I love a good brush thread! Bronze here, always and every time. I don’t care if the product I’m using reacts with the brush. A quick dip in some alcohol after the fact and I’m good to go. After a bit they just get tossed anyway. Brushes are about the cheapest thing I buy for this addiction.
 
Soooo
Back to Patch out, you said initially cleaning at the range then again at home with a 40 minute soak time. Reading the bottle it’s applied with a nylon brush then just patch out, so if a fella wants to scrub with a bronze it’s a extra step. Regardless you found good results. Excellent and thanks for posting you’ve obviously tried a few products.....
J
 
I love a good brush thread! Bronze here, always and every time. I don’t care if the product I’m using reacts with the brush. A quick dip in some alcohol after the fact and I’m good to go. After a bit they just get tossed anyway. Brushes are about the cheapest thing I buy for this addiction.
Cleaning threads are way up on my list also :) second only to shoulder bumping..
 
Best thing is for a person to try both nylon and brass ( stay away from SS one's) use each and decide for yourself which you like. As for me, I will stick to brass brushes, clean them after use and keep my bores as cleans as I am able to do.
 

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