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Custom FL Dies - What company?

Thats true from the stand point of theres many gunsmiths out there and not all of them are cutting tight chambers. With a JGS reamer, I prefer to work off of the print. Especially in a bigger case like a 338 Lapua or 300 Norma where it may take 5+ firings to get the .2" line up to chamber size. If a guy has a fat chamber and you worked from the print, then you would just end up sizing the brass a little extra. Much better than not enough. Another issue is that not all cases work with the same numbers. The bigger and tougher the case, the smaller the sizing die needs to be compared to the chamber. .003" under is not gonna work on everything.
 
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Just to clarify, 3 pieces 3x fired plus my Reamer print sent

Sorry to hear that. I'd be discouraged too. I ordered mine in last October. It took them 20 weeks to get it back to me, but mine was worth the wait. My neighbor bought one of their off the shelf BR dies and his experience was more like yours. I've seen the die in person. It showed up filthy and rough and was a case scratcher. Our experiences were polar opposite. Mine was clean as a whistle and all polished up. I'm happy with whoever it was they assigned my die to.
 
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I will say their customer service was phenomenal. They bent over backwards to make it right, they just couldn't. I have older ones from them and seaters that are great. I ended up ordering a Warner die (still waiting) for this particular Cartridge. I kept the Seater die and am happy with it.
 
Is that a Lee collet die?

If so, I'm trying to avoid bumping shoulders in one step, and sizing the neck in another. I could pretty much do that now with my current whidden FL die, and mandrel it back up (or use pin gauges).

I shoot a lot, and I'm also very lazy.

I'm really looking for a 1-step sizing process that gives me .001 tension, .002 bump, zero run out, and hits those numbers every time. That's not asking too much is it? ;)
That's hard to do. Every firing and sizing cycle makes the brass harder. Therefore the tension and amount of bump changes. You might get close if you have a good annealer and annual every time. Matt
 
I believe you. I just don't understand..I guess the whiddens don't allow as much side-to-side play with the bushing?

Here's where I'm hung up....If the die is bored out to .5" in the bushing area (hypothetical numbers), and the bushings are .495 OD, then how does the die affect neck concentricity.
Its not side to side play its the squareness of how it sits there. It needs to be able to float but it can float less if the die is straight.
 
Whidden or harrels for 30br?


Probably depends on the reamer. The reamer my gunsmith uses is a great fit for a Harrell's. He did it this way on purpose to make buying sizing dies easy. My results have been great. Minimal sizing. Brass is holding up good. Accuracy is awesome.

I had originally planned on buying another Whidden when I got this 30BR but the Harrell's is working perfectly for my chamber. No need for me to go Whidden at this point. Since then, I've had my gunsmith order me a reamer to match his.
 
I’ll just throw this out there but I’m a huge fan of. Newlon custom dies. They come as a blank and you have your gunsmith chamber them. Great dies and great company. The seating die can even be ordered with a Mitotoyo micrometer on it. I’ve had plenty of Wilson and they’re great does too but for true custom I’m sold on the Newlon dies.
 
I’ll just throw this out there but I’m a huge fan of. Newlon custom dies. They come as a blank and you have your gunsmith chamber them. Great dies and great company. The seating die can even be ordered with a Mitotoyo micrometer on it. I’ve had plenty of Wilson and they’re great does too but for true custom I’m sold on the Newlon dies.

No comparison....made one for my 308 great seater
 
There's nothing mystical about a die. They have a very simple job to do and if it's made to the right size relative to the chamber/fired brass, it should do that job well.
Also, there's nothing wrong with going with a custom die but it makes more sense to me to have the chamber reamer ground to work with off the shelf type s bushing dies whenever possible.

Don't over think this. I can very much appreciate nice machining but that's not the issue here. The only real concern is the die is straight, after heat treat and that it reduces the case size a very specific amount..and again, this can change during heat treat with some materials.

I think the op answered his own question in regard to his runout troubles when he said that he was reducing neck diameter by .006.

Again, nothing against custom dies or the makers. Hell, I am a former die maker. It's just an unnecessary expense when you can almost always use a std type s die and get the same results, if your reamer is properly thought out and made to work with said die.
Custom dies have their place but imo, not so much, when you can control chamber dimensions so they yield brass that is properly sized with a standard die.
This isn't rocket surgery.
 
There's nothing mystical about a die. They have a very simple job to do and if it's made to the right size relative to the chamber/fired brass, it should do that job well.
Also, there's nothing wrong with going with a custom die but it makes more sense to me to have the chamber reamer ground to work with off the shelf type s bushing dies whenever possible.

Don't over think this. I can very much appreciate nice machining but that's not the issue here. The only real concern is the die is straight, after heat treat and that it reduces the case size a very specific amount..and again, this can change during heat treat with some materials.

I think the op answered his own question in regard to his runout troubles when he said that he was reducing neck diameter by .006.

Again, nothing against custom dies or the makers. Hell, I am a former die maker. It's just an unnecessary expense when you can almost always use a std type s die and get the same results, if your reamer is properly thought out and made to work with said die.
Custom dies have their place but imo, not so much, when you can control chamber dimensions so they yield brass that is properly sized with a standard die.
This isn't rocket surgery.

I agree with everything you're saying. That said, I think you ideally want about .003-.004 neck clearance in a .308...at least that's what I see a lot of people running.

If you don't want to turn Lapua palma brass, that's going to put you at a .341-.342 neck, and you'll need to be sizing down with a .335 or .336 bushing to hit .001" interference fit....so it's somewhat unavoidable... You're going to be sizing that neck down .005-.006 regardless.

I could be missing something though...probably am. It may not be rocket surgery, but I make Forrest Gump look like Albert Einstein. ;)
 
It may be worth doing it in two steps, sizing the necks down .002-.003 at a time. I really don't know how that will work but I don't think a floating bushing is your problem. They simply work too well in too many instances. IME and what you have described, runout usually happens during sizing, not seating, so that's where I'd focus. I know one guy that runs a straight piece of brass into the busing by raising the ram and then locks the bushing tightly solid. He feels like it helps but I'm skeptical of the benefits. But it would make it act like a one piece die, fwiw.
 
Anyone use Neil Jones products.? or have any experience with his work.
upload_2019-11-14_23-9-11.jpeg

I really like these. Work like a charm. I sent him 20 pieces of brass for samples. He made me an extra shoulder /neck insert that was 0.001 different size for different brass.
At this time of year Mr. Jones is probably in Florida. He returns in the Spring.
Give him a call, write a letter, or send an email. If you call him he will ask questions and take the time to answer questions. Place your order. Sit back and wait.
https://www.neiljones.com
 

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