MolyKote Z Powder for case necks before BULLET seating

[Baer45]

Has anyone used this? I saw a famous benchrest shooter using it in an Annealer video on UTube and bought some. I do not want to get into Moly bullets as I like a different coating if I ever go that route. I like the idea of a barrier between BULLET and brass to reduce bonding. Anyone one using it that can give me any feedback would be appreciated...not cheap by any means...

 

[mousegunner]

I use the Sinclair graphite myself, price is reasonable, what does your moly go for?

 

[Baer45]

It was 70$ for 10 oz which will last forever

 

[piie]

Has anyone used this? I saw a famous benchrest shooter using it in an Annealer video on UTube and bought some. I do not want to get into Moly bullets as I like a different coating if I ever go that route. I like the idea of a barrier between BULLET and brass to reduce bonding. Anyone one using it that can give me any feedback would be appreciated...not cheap by any means...

Out of interest - if you use a moly substance, or you shoot moly coated bullets - does that not eventually transfer to the barrel, and over time, you will have a moly coated barrel as well (which will then dictate that you should continue to use moly coating, or moly bullets, and also deal with the velocity adjustments that would result?)

Due to my anecdotal "understanding" of how moly works, I've also just opted to use graphite powder when seating bullets. I don't go the dip-the-neck route though - I just dunk the base and shaft of the bullets a few times into the graphite and then seat.

 

[Texas10]

I've been using VFG felt pellets on a mandrel to apply into case necks. It's time consuming, but I found dipping into the BB filled brand did not coat the inside of the neck consistently. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WS4B9N8/?tag=accuratescom-20

I just SS pin cleaned and Salt bath annealed all my 6 BR brass, loaded up 50 with 107 SMK's and didn't like the neck tension I experienced in the super clean brass. Going to load up another 50 with lubed necks and see how they shoot. Should be interesting

 

[boltfluter]

Baer,

You will end up with a moly coated barrel shortly. If that bothers you I would use the graphite instead.

Paul

 

[Riesel]

Baer,

You will end up with a moly coated barrel shortly. If that bothers you I would use the graphite instead.

Paul

Paul, I'm a bit surprised that the moly used inside a neck would eventually end up in the barrel, Seems the blow torch from the burning powder along with the pressure would just vaporize
the moly. I've been dipping the necks on my 6.5x55 brass in a light dust of moly before I expand the necks to try to reduce run out and neck stretching. You think this moly is coating the inside of the barrel? Might help explain some weird fliers I get occasionally and how would I go about removing any moly?

Thanks for your comments.
Robert

 

[boltfluter]

Robert,

A relatively easy way to tell is to look down the bore after cleaning your rifle. Mine have a gray look to them. All is not lost as I am a moly fan. My thinking is that a few people used to load the moly into the powder charge and ended up with a moly coated barrel. If you definitely don't want moly I would use graphite for seating or sizing. Really, just my opinion based on my experience. Good luck.

Paul

 

[WillyTP]

Not ever having done this before, but see it come up from time to time makes me wonder.....why wouldn’t you just dip the heal of the bullet in the moly/graphite or mica or whatever instead of trying to apply it to the inside of the case neck?

 

[Baer45]

Paul - you make a good point. Anything used will go down the barrel. In the video the fellow was using a correct caliber size bore mop and would dip it in the powder then a quick twist in the neck...fwiw

 

[Riesel]

Paul, just finished loading up a new batch for my 6.5X55 Swede and skipped the moly in the neck step. I plan to give the barrel a really good scrubbing before next outing.
I've been having problems with the rifle shooting a pretty good group and then out of the clear blue a dropped one, sometimes as much as four to five inches, always down.
I think this might be my problem. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.

Robert

 

[group therapy]

if you don't clean your brass there is a carbon build up in the neck, just brush it before you seat a bullet and it might surprise you how well that works. just my .02

 

[piie]

Not ever having done this before, but see it come up from time to time makes me wonder.....why wouldn’t you just dip the heal of the bullet in the moly/graphite or mica or whatever instead of trying to apply it to the inside of the case neck?

That's exactly what I do with graphite powder - works very well, and I can see it clearly forming a very thin coating on the bullet when I dip it 4 or 5 times. (I use the Redding applicator media, which is probably why it works so well for just dipping the bullet?) It's also preferable for me to do it this way, since it's done "at the right time" in my reloading process - dipping the necks would mean having to do it before you throw powder, and who knows what effect the powder kernels could have on the little bit of graphite that might be on the inside of the necks?

 

[Ccrider]

and who knows what effect the powder kernels could have on the little bit of graphite that might be on the inside of the necks?

No effect.

 

[piie]

No effect.

Well, then I still like to convince myself that dipping the bullet uses less graphite than dipping the necks (which will also coat the outside of the neck, and probably needs wiping off?) - and beats having to fiddle with a swab or something applying the graphite to the inside of the neck only.