You're saying the 1.355" cylindrical, single shot action is going to bend, before the piece of wood or fiberglass with a skim coat of epoxy bedding?
Both are going to bend, inversely proportional to their relative stiffness.
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You're saying the 1.355" cylindrical, single shot action is going to bend, before the piece of wood or fiberglass with a skim coat of epoxy bedding?
It does not get posted here, but 1"s are not lucky groups anymore. Theres guys consistently shooting groups in the 1"s almost every test session. Im not sure guys realize how small these rifles can shoot at 1k. You can learn things from a 1" gun you cant from a 3" gun.
It does not get posted here, but 1"s are not lucky groups anymore. Theres guys consistently shooting groups in the 1"s almost every test session. Im not sure guys realize how small these rifles can shoot at 1k. You can learn things from a 1" gun you cant from a 3" gun.
It does not get posted here, but 1"s are not lucky groups anymore. Theres guys consistently shooting groups in the 1"s almost every test session. Im not sure guys realize how small these rifles can shoot at 1k. You can learn things from a 1" gun you cant from a 3" gun.
Why? If you gun is glued into the stock how do you lubricate it to prevent corrosion? So as such you want to have as much resistance to rust as you can get if you will be going years at a time with out being able to maintain or inspect easily. Why do you think all of your Mauser, Springfield and other military bolt guns are pristine on the top and pitted on the bottom hidden by the wood? The parts that you do not see never got cleaned or lubed but the parts that could be seen fully assembled did get lubed. That is why it is common to see military bolt guns especially old ones that had wood stocks and hand guards with pitting bellow the wood line! So SS especialy if it is not re-sulphared 416 aka 416R is a step in the right direction.Why SS in particular?
You dont think bullet makers have a part in this???
I do, I just shot the highest score at the Ridgway championship 2 day match. My gun is pillar bedded. I believe it's a large combination of bullet makers, optics. barrels, Smith's and most of all load development. I've shot some pretty decent scores at Ridgway over the past couple years, but the most recent change was bullets. So I'm using a pillar bedded rifle, with a Jewell trigger and a nightforce comp. All of which have been posted as sub standard at one time or another on this site. Kudos to Roy Hunter, because it looks like his bullets must overcome all the poor equipment and techniques I seem to like.
How about some details on 1" groups, I believe I already know a little about them. And your right, they are not lucky, accidental or without having good equipment, but a glued in action isn't the immediate result of small groups.
Wasn't the reason for glued actions originally to save weight in point blank shooting? True there are a few advantages but I think a properly maintained bedded action will perform just as well as a glued action
Why? If you gun is glued into the stock how do you lubricate it to prevent corrosion? So as such you want to have as much resistance to rust as you can get if you will be going years at a time with out being able to maintain or inspect easily. Why do you think all of your Mauser, Springfield and other military bolt guns are pristine on the top and pitted on the bottom hidden by the wood? The parts that you do not see never got cleaned or lubed but the parts that could be seen fully assembled did get lubed. That is why it is common to see military bolt guns especially old ones that had wood stocks and hand guards with pitting bellow the wood line! So SS especialy if it is not re-sulphared 416 aka 416R is a step in the right direction.
Was gunna mention the rust needs air thing but wasn’t sure... I had a SS action unglued after about 3 years and looked as good as it did when it went in.Will it rust without oxygen getting to it or are the military rifles rusting due to the combination of wood and the environment. I popped out a chromemoly bat a few weeks ago, a round 3l that has been glued in since they came out with blued actions (maybe 10yrs ago). Not only was it not rusted, i actually scuffed up the bottom of the action to where there was zero bluing on it. No hint of rust- im guessing because air couldnt get to it
Everything plays a role in why groups are getting smaller. But now that they are you can see the difference in things you couldnt before. Roy makes a great bullet but, the guys have been shooting 1s for a few years now. There should be no emotional ties to product or methods. The OP asked, I have proven to myself with rifles I have glued that they shoot smaller. I can't un see it. And I cant un test equipment that performed poorly. Again, its not personal to me, its just equipment.You dont think bullet makers have a part in this???
I do, I just shot the highest score at the Ridgway championship 2 day match. My gun is pillar bedded. I believe it's a large combination of bullet makers, optics. barrels, Smith's and most of all load development. I've shot some pretty decent scores at Ridgway over the past couple years, but the most recent change was bullets. So I'm using a pillar bedded rifle, with a Jewell trigger and a nightforce comp. All of which have been posted as sub standard at one time or another on this site. Kudos to Roy Hunter, because it looks like his bullets must overcome all the poor equipment and techniques I seem to like.
How about some details on 1" groups, I believe I already know a little about them. And your right, they are not lucky, accidental or without having good equipment, but a glued in action isn't the immediate result of small groups.
Wasn't the reason for glued actions originally to save weight in point blank shooting? True there are a few advantages but I think a properly maintained bedded action will perform just as well as a glued action
I glue in all of mine.When it is time to get an action out I use a henway, on fuss. Just my two cents.. Tommy MCCould someone explain the advantages and drawbacks of gluing in an action?
How do you removed a glued action? Once a glued action is removed what’s steps need to be taken on the stock and the action to re-glue it?
The bending came from the days of small Remington tangs. Bedding or a not so good bedding job can allow inconsistent vibration that doesn't repeat thus changing harmonics day to day, shot to shot.. It's not to hard to figure that the least chance for a bedding job to allow this would be a permanent bonded (glue job) bedded action.. Least that is what I would think.. Have you tried it? I don't think you are going to see some leap in results, it's kinda of the idea that you won't see it fail. Bedding shrinksI have, and I have read about others that do and their concerns with it and "bowing/bending the action" or putting stress into it so I checked a couple of my stocks and got to thinking.
Thats a bunch of hogwash if you ask me. You're telling me that your 1.355" (or larger) round action is getting bent or stressed by a piece of wood or fiberglass with a skim coat of metal epoxy thats getting screwed to it? Sorry man, not buying it. I think people have got it backwards.
Having said that, I think a good bedding job is very important. You certainly dont want it loose. But to tell me you're bending that action.
But your results may be different than mine.
They would tell you to go with a barrel block... LolSince Williamsport has wormed it's way into this conversation, it would be nice to know what the folks who have accumulated (and continue to accumulate) more HOF points than most of us will ever be able to dream about (Kruchinsky, Kenzakoski, Mark King, Jay Burger, Murtiff, Kline et al) would have to say about this. . . . .
Would you take apart your bedded rifle and lube up the action and put it back together? I wouldn't. I would wipe it down with alcohol and try to assemble it with zero interference of any kind.. I guess people are just on different pages.Why? If you gun is glued into the stock how do you lubricate it to prevent corrosion? So as such you want to have as much resistance to rust as you can get if you will be going years at a time with out being able to maintain or inspect easily. Why do you think all of your Mauser, Springfield and other military bolt guns are pristine on the top and pitted on the bottom hidden by the wood? The parts that you do not see never got cleaned or lubed but the parts that could be seen fully assembled did get lubed. That is why it is common to see military bolt guns especially old ones that had wood stocks and hand guards with pitting bellow the wood line! So SS especialy if it is not re-sulphared 416 aka 416R is a step in the right direction.