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School me on some savages

With as savage when you tight the nut you increasing the head space. You also are using a different part of the thread when doing it. The real difference with a nut you are tightening a stud .
With as shoulder it barrel is a bolt
All race motors the good one use studs .
That reason alone is why I use the nut.
On my target actions I have larger od lug along witha larger nut That allows me to tighten above the threads on the out side of the action . Larry

Larry, I agree 100% with your first 2 sentences. I assume you are talking about Savage's. The style Savage nut, the common one with square 'lugs' on the outside have the same OD measurement, it is the ID that changes with large or small shank barrels.
I am lost when you say "That allows me to tighten above the threads on the out side of the action".?

In your analogy of racing engines. Yes, studs if you are talking about how a head is held on. However the state of the art in connecting rods is 'cracked rods' secured with bolts. And of course rod bolts are able to be measured by bolt stretch which is the most accurate way to measure proper tightness. I do not see many similarities between a bolt action rifle and an engine. Connecting rod bolts are constantly put under ever changing horrific conditions.
 
Larry, I agree 100% with your first 2 sentences. I assume you are talking about Savage's. The style Savage nut, the common one with square 'lugs' on the outside have the same OD measurement, it is the ID that changes with large or small shank barrels.
I am lost when you say "That allows me to tighten above the threads on the out side of the action".?

In your analogy of racing engines. Yes, studs if you are talking about how a head is held on. However the state of the art in connecting rods is 'cracked rods' secured with bolts. And of course rod bolts are able to be measured by bolt stretch which is the most accurate way to measure proper tightness. I do not see many similarities between a bolt action rifle and an engine. Connecting rod bolts are constantly put under ever changing horrific conditions.
Not trying to disagree but all premium rods have a stud in fact even stock rods use a t stud in them The good one have a relief on the nut so you don't tighten on the thread area .
The nut I have made has a relief in it to where it doesn't pull in the thread area .
Larry the factory nut is relief not the nut od on the target action isn't large enough .
Larry
 
I'm glad to see more shooters changing their own. It creates a better market for all of us. I just want to express how important the right tools are. I see guys screwing the barrel down on loaded ammo and can't figure out why the die won't resize their brass. Some will hand tighten the nut to make it easier to remove. And on and on. I have no problem using tape to "measure" the chamber. No no no as a no-go gauge. If you can close the bolt, whereever it comes from the grease, improper threads, inadequate torquing, smashing magic tape is unacceptable. Remember that safety is first. Teaching someone to redneck gunsmith their rifle is pretty reckless.
Savages are great guns to modify. I personally prefer the long action 110, 112, 116's over the short action for a switch barrel gun.
 
You still don't get it, yotehater. Once again, a well qualified gunsmith told me he uses tape instead of buying no go gauges.

Why don't we take a poll of say 20 Savage shooters that have swapped barrels. Have them use go and no go gauges, then a go gauge and tape. Then get their opinions.

There is nothing unsafe with my method AS LONG AS IT IS DONE CAREFULLY. If I was off on my headspace the bolt would close easily on the taped go gauge. If my method was dubious I'm sure I would have had some kind of brass issue by now.
 
You still don't get it, yotehater. Once again, a well qualified gunsmith told me he uses tape instead of buying no go gauges.

Why don't we take a poll of say 20 Savage shooters that have swapped barrels. Have them use go and no go gauges, then a go gauge and tape. Then get their opinions.

There is nothing unsafe with my method AS LONG AS IT IS DONE CAREFULLY. If I was off on my headspace the bolt would close easily on the taped go gauge. If my method was dubious I'm sure I would have had some kind of brass issue by now.

Clay Spencer used the tape in a video I seen, not saying he uses it every time but he did in that video
 
Quote from yotehater:
......"Teaching someone to redneck gunsmith their rifle is pretty reckless.".....

I don't know who the above is directed to.
However in my reply #39 the first sentence in the final paragraph states what should be used. (meaning the correct tools.....pretty clear...) and the closing sentence states what I wrote is merely what I do......
 
I watched a smith that is pretty well known chamber a barrel, then use a go gauge with a small piece of paper cut and placed between the bolt face and go gauge to use as a no go. Same principal as tape I would say. Is this standard procedure, I dunno but it seems to work.
 
I have only replaced three barrels and with all three I used a go gauge and tape. Knowing that the tape will compress, given enough preasure on the bolt handle, I just applied light preasure will checking the "No-Go" and inspected the gauge and tape to see if was distorted. The tape method does require a bit of feel, but it works.
 
I agree but when tightening the nut without the barrel being in a vise the barrel tends to turn in with the nut decreasing headspace.
Not that you asked a question BUT that is correct. Therefore the importance of keeping the barrel AND action stationary when tightening the jam nut. The barrel vise is real handy or then we go back to having three hands! The more the barrel screws INTO the action the shorter the headspace becomes.
 
Not that you asked a question BUT that is correct. Therefore the importance of keeping the barrel AND action stationary when tightening the jam nut. The barrel vise is real handy or then we go back to having three hands! The more the barrel screws INTO the action the shorter the headspace becomes.
Agreed!
 
Quote from yotehater:
......"Teaching someone to redneck gunsmith their rifle is pretty reckless.".....

I don't know who the above is directed to.
However in my reply #39 the first sentence in the final paragraph states what should be used. (meaning the correct tools.....pretty clear...) and the closing sentence states what I wrote is merely what I do......
M-61, it was directed at me. He said I'm reckless and a redneck gunsmith because I said I used tape on a go gauge as a substitute for a no go gauge.
I took the "redneck gunsmith" part as a compliment. :)
 
May I go off the current topic and ask a question? Can I take a Savage 110V in 223, change the bolt head and barrel and turn it into a 300 Win Mag?
 
The moral of the story with a SALVAGE, whether using the correct gauges or not-

You can not make a Ferrari F40 out of Ford pick up truck parts!
 
Larry . Can you please explain? I own a 110v and I have a kid that wants a boomer. I'm just looking for a cheap way to do it. Josh
 
Larry . Can you please explain? I own a 110v and I have a kid that wants a boomer. I'm just looking for a cheap way to do it. Josh
Savage makes two action threads large and small.
They first made the magimum in the small shank . Then they changed and made them in the large shank .
I would recommend you change it to a 06 or 06 AI . Or better yet trade it go a mag.
I think I have a heavy barrel in small shank in a 300 Remington ultra mag . I would sell I use it on my savage Stryker Hand gun. It is a Douglass air gauge 28" with a vias brake .
Larry
 

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