Turn Your FX-120i into a Prometheus

[jlow]

Just thinking out loud here... would it be that hard to get a spare trickler (or two), and use different fasteners to attach them to the motor/base for a quick-detach setup? Not strictly necessary, of course, but neither is having a separate Dillon APM for each tool head on a 550/650 - but you see plenty of folks who decide that the money is worth the time spent changing over and resetting everything.

Changing out a trickler is easy, but not sure how useful that would be unless you don’t want to empty the trickler after each use which I do because I don’t want the powder to sit out to air for significant amount of time. If you block the “other” end of the trickler tube like I suggested many pages back, the trickler empty out very easily and so really the only thing one change between using different powder is that slider bar at the back of the balance which of course is not trickler related.

 

[1lnbrdg]

Cleaning out the hopper isn't that big of an issue. Just takes a few seconds really. Takes me 2X longer usually to empty out my powder measure than the trickler since I have a hose attached to it.

 

[Cody Richardson]

I'm sold, I'll be ordering one this winter for my 64-1s. I do have one question, if it's been addressed in the past 23 pages of this thread I apologize. With the 64-1s, it measures to .002 grains. I mostly use 4831sc, which generally weighs about .030-.045 grains per kernel, with that big of a difference, how can this measure out my charge, 55.0 grains exactly when I keep threshold oh what I accept to anywhere from 54.986-55.0014? Or is it best to set it a tenth low and trickle manually the last tenth.

 

[spclark]

You don't have to be that precise in your tolerance range. It may make you feel better than settling for the closest other scales can determine but at distance on target +/- 0.02 grains from 56.00 just isn't gonna show much of a difference.

I switched to using grams (milligrams actually) over grains as it seemed my old scale worked better (more stable) after the change. You may find the same thing but even then it's still 0.0154 gn = 1.000 mg (0.001g) unless you want to shave grains....

 

[jlow]

I'm sold, I'll be ordering one this winter for my 64-1s. I do have one question, if it's been addressed in the past 23 pages of this thread I apologize. With the 64-1s, it measures to .002 grains. I mostly use 4831sc, which generally weighs about .030-.045 grains per kernel, with that big of a difference, how can this measure out my charge, 55.0 grains exactly when I keep threshold oh what I accept to anywhere from 54.986-55.0014? Or is it best to set it a tenth low and trickle manually the last tenth.

The thing to keep in mind is the autotrickler cannot measure your charge any better than a good human trickler because some factors like how big a kernel is cannot change just because you are using an autotrickler.

There is of course no magic with the autotrickler in terms of being able to hit an exact charge, it’s magic is just being able to do it more efficiently. You decide the level of accuracy you need for each charge and use a strategy to obtain it.

So if you are going to need an absolute 55.000 grain, you are going to have to trickle short and hand adjust it as you would if you were doing manual trickling.

If you are more forgiving like you say willing to accept 54.986-55.0014 grain, then shoot for 55.0 grain and see where it ends up. If it is within that acceptable range, take it. If not then you can either take a bit out and ask it to do it again, or just hand adjust as you would if you were manually trickling and went over.

You can play with shooting for a short weight or adjusting the speed of the final trickle to see which works better but in the end, the above applies.

 

[mtar15]

I'm going to try sealed roller bearings on my trickler. I purchased a spare trickler to test on before making any changes to the unit on my auto trickler.

I ordered these bearings (thanks to member josh cox) http://www.ebay.com/itm/371702886611?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I then found a step bit that was perfect, it cleaned up the existing through hole and made slightly larger in diameter. It also bored a 1/2" hole for the bearing to fit into, I left a small flange for the bearing to stop on.

I should have the bearings in a couple days.

Question, any advice on what I should use to lock the bearing into the trickler body? I see Loctite 609 is for mounting bearings, but at $32 a bottle I'd rather see if something cheaper exists. I don't ever expect to remove the bearings, so permanent isn't an issue. I thought about a skim of JB Weld, but I'm afraid of it getting on face of the bearing and welding it immobile.

Here is a couple pictures of my work in progress.

 

[Cujo]

Question, any advice on what I should use to lock the bearing into the trickler body? I see Loctite 609 is for mounting bearings, but at $32 a bottle I'd rather see if something cheaper exists.

Wow, nice job!

I was in the same position and just needed about 2 drops of Loctite 609. There are small .5 ml tubes that you can buy for around $5 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loctite-609...292341?hash=item281de5d0f5:g:o6gAAOSwaB5XqigT

I'd just put about a little bit on the tip of a toothpick and touch it to the edge of the bearing. Through capillary action, it sucks it right in.

 

[mtar15]

Wow, nice job!

I was in the same position and just needed about 2 drops of Loctite 609. There are small .5 ml tubes that you can buy for around $5 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loctite-609...292341?hash=item281de5d0f5:g:o6gAAOSwaB5XqigT

I'd just put about a little bit on the tip of a toothpick and touch it to the edge of the bearing. Through capillary action, it sucks it right in.

Thanks, that's a perfect solution.

 

[jlow]

I'm going to try sealed roller bearings on my trickler. I purchased a spare trickler to test on before making any changes to the unit on my auto trickler.

I ordered these bearings (thanks to member josh cox) http://www.ebay.com/itm/371702886611?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I then found a step bit that was perfect, it cleaned up the existing through hole and made slightly larger in diameter. It also bored a 1/2" hole for the bearing to fit into, I left a small flange for the bearing to stop on.

I should have the bearings in a couple days.

Question, any advice on what I should use to lock the bearing into the trickler body? I see Loctite 609 is for mounting bearings, but at $32 a bottle I'd rather see if something cheaper exists. I don't ever expect to remove the bearings, so permanent isn't an issue. I thought about a skim of JB Weld, but I'm afraid of it getting on face of the bearing and welding it immobile.

Here is a couple pictures of my work in progress.

Very nice! I particularly like that step bit, have never seen one before. Which one did you use and who sells one? Thanks!

 

[mtar15]

The bit is from a friends machine shop, so I can't say exactly who made it.

But here is one for sale: http://www.acetoolonline.com/Kreg-K...n=google_base&site=google_product_listing_ads

 

[memilanuk]

The bit is from a friends machine shop, so I can't say exactly who made it.

If it's just a Kreg bit - typically HSS, used for woodworking to make pocket-hole joints, should work fine in cast aluminum like the RCBS tricker body - then you can probably find them locally @ various chain home improvement or woodworking stores such as Home Depot, Lowe's, Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.

 

[jlow]

If it's just a Kreg bit - typically HSS, used for woodworking to make pocket-hole joints, should work fine in cast aluminum like the RCBS tricker body - then you can probably find them locally @ various chain home improvement or woodworking stores such as Home Depot, Lowe's, Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.

Thanks! Used to be a woodworker but I've been away from that field for 20 years and so have not run across the Kreg bit but it looks sweet - thanks for the info!

 

[memilanuk]

Glad I could be of some help

Having been watching this thread develop over time... and having loaded somewhere close to 1000 rds with my trickler so far, including all the ammo I took to the DCRA FCNC... I'm still a little unclear on what exactly the bearing mod is supposed to accomplish. Is it supposed to make the trickler perform better in some measurable way, or is it just 'nicer'? Mine isn't particularly noisy, and seems to work pretty good as is. Pretty sure I have a 'spare' RCBS trickler around here somewhere; been contemplating trying the mods on that one so I don't b0rk the one that works in the process of 'improving' it.

 

[Cujo]

Glad I could be of some help

Having been watching this thread develop over time... and having loaded somewhere close to 1000 rds with my trickler so far, including all the ammo I took to the DCRA FCNC... I'm still a little unclear on what exactly the bearing mod is supposed to accomplish. Is it supposed to make the trickler perform better in some measurable way, or is it just 'nicer'? Mine isn't particularly noisy, and seems to work pretty good as is. Pretty sure I have a 'spare' RCBS trickler around here somewhere; been contemplating trying the mods on that one so I don't b0rk the one that works in the process of 'improving' it.

The bearing mod just makes it smoother and maintenance free. I probably have maybe 800 rounds or so loaded from it. Prior to installing the bearings, I was pulling the tube out every 125 rounds or so to clean it and relubricate. I tried Break Free, Mobil 1, graphite and KG10. After running it for awhile it would become noisy/sticky so I'd have to disassemble, clean and relubricate again.

I have less than 200 rounds with the bearing mod and just threw 69 charges this afternoon. It spins freely and is super smooth and quiet. I don't have to worry about cleaning and lubricating it anymore. It's definitely a "must have" mod for the Autotrickler.

I just went with the sealed bearings and Loctite 609. I bought other items (spacers, shims) but they're not required. Just Loctite the bearings in place and use the white spacer that comes with the auto trickler. The kit's o-ring puts downward pressure on the drive side bearing and upward pressure on the other bearing. No need to permanently affix the tube to the bearings. It'll cost you less than $20.

You won't Bork it up. Just make sure the bearings and tube are aligned. Place a little bit of Loctite on the end of a toothpick and touch it where the outer race meets the body. It'll get drawn in and if you have any excess, just wipe it away with the corner of a napkin.

 

[wolfman]

Glad I could be of some help

Having been watching this thread develop over time... and having loaded somewhere close to 1000 rds with my trickler so far, including all the ammo I took to the DCRA FCNC... I'm still a little unclear on what exactly the bearing mod is supposed to accomplish. Is it supposed to make the trickler perform better in some measurable way, or is it just 'nicer'? Mine isn't particularly noisy, and seems to work pretty good as is. Pretty sure I have a 'spare' RCBS trickler around here somewhere; been contemplating trying the mods on that one so I don't b0rk the one that works in the process of 'improving' it.

Monte, I have noticed that after a number of charges are dispensed, the trickler starts to throw a bit slower, and tends to overthrow. If I take the time to relube the tube where it passes through the body, it starts dispensing more accurately and quickly again.

 

[josh cox]

One consideration for mounting the bearings, if you glue them in with 5 minute Araldite, the bearings will be easier to remove when they wear out ( boiling water will weaken the bond of Araldite, DEVCON and the like require a jackhammer ).

 

[memilanuk]

You won't Bork it up.

Nice of you to say, but I'm afraid you underestimate me

I was referring more to drilling the hole half-ways straight and true i.e. not off axis and egg-shaped.

 

[jkl]

It's not that high tech once you put bearings on the shaft. Then the bearings and shaft align everything properly. When the Loctite cures you're done. Just make sure it rolls smoothly

 

[Cujo]

Nice of you to say, but I'm afraid you underestimate me

I was referring more to drilling the hole half-ways straight and true i.e. not off axis and egg-shaped.

Heck, if I can do it. . .

BTW, thanks for the new word.

 

[mgdietrich]

Monte:

I bought the bearings and some Loctite 609. I did a bad job of drilling the hole with a hand drill, still a little Loctite held the bearings in place no problem even with over sized holes. I then rotated the trickled on the base so the drive o ring would not touch itself.

Really smooth now......