Zastava M85 firing pin light strikes

[DShortt]

I bought a Zastava M85 'mini Mauser' a few years ago. I've been fighting with light firing pin strikes ever since I bought it. Recently ordered a new firing pin and spring thinking my troubles would finally be over. Installed the new parts and set the pin protrusion at .050".

Less than 10 rounds and I've got light firing pin strikes and FTF again.

Just wondering if anyone here has been down this road and knows of a solution? Something isn't right but I can't decide what it is.

 

[Carl S]

If you're getting the correct pin fall,try checking head space.

 

[DShortt]

Checked with a GO and No Go gauge. No issues. Measured fired brass, .001" longer than sized brass.

 

[DShortt]

The factory barrel had a chunk of rifling missing and this rifle has since been rebarreled to a 300AAC. Had the same pin strike issue with the factory .224/5.56 barrel as well.

 

[AlNyhus]

I've got one of those guns in 223. What does the spring pressure measure? Improper trigger adjustments on those actions can also cause light hits. -Al

 

[matthias]

Sometimes a higher rate spring or lighter firing pin can help with these issues. Maybe try a spacer to "pre-compress" the spring as a proof of concept. If that helps get a heavier spring.

 

[DShortt]

I've got one of those guns in 223. What the spring pressure measure? Improper trigger adjustments on those actions can also cause light hits. -Al

Now that's a possibility. Can you describe or point me in the correct direction to instructions?

As I said I replaced the spring just a couple of months ago. Monkeyed around with the trigger adjustments at one time too. Very possible that's my trouble.

Thanks in advance.

 

[AlNyhus]

Now that's a possibility. Can you describe or point me in the correct direction to instructions?

As I said I replaced the spring just a couple of months ago. Monkeyed around with the trigger adjustments at one time too. Very possible that's my trouble.

Thanks in advance.

The first thing I'd do (and what I did with mine) was to check the total pin fall. Then removed the pin assy from the bolt and checked the pressure. If both of those are fine, then move to the trigger. Understanding how the safety works and influences other trigger functions is very important for not only function but for safety. Zastava is very good about replacement parts and owners manuals. The original owners manuals included a very good schematic on the trigger adjustments.

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After a lot of work, mine is at 1.5 lbs. with a very secure safety. Most factory triggers can only get to 2.5 lbs or so before you start running into issues. Timney's #315 is a direct replacement. It's been discontinued but Timney still shows them as available.

 

[DShortt]

Thank you for the link, I appreciate it!

 

[AlNyhus]

Thank you for the link, I appreciate it!

They don't list a manual for it but I'd give them a call. Also, grab some extra extractors. One of the quirks of these guns is that the extractor can be far enough forward of the bolt nose to contact the bolt nose counter bore in the barrel when the bolt is rotated. That's why they get the reputation for extractor breakage. 5 minutes with a stone or file is all it takes to get ahead of this issue. If yours shows previous contact, it's best to replace it before it breaks...even if it's not contacting now. Other than the bolt shroud, these actions are virtual copies of the small Sako actions....which is pretty easy to see once you start working with them.

They really respond to a well done two point pillar bedding job, too. Aligning the front/rear bases and equalizing the heights of them by bedding them will make your life a whole lot easier with scope mounting, too. They're wonky enough that Weaver furnishes shims for their rear two piece base to equalize the base heights.

 

[akajun]

Sometimes a higher rate spring or lighter firing pin can help with these issues. Maybe try a spacer to "pre-compress" the spring as a proof of concept. If that helps get a heavier spring.

this, I had one that did the same thing, made a few simple spacers or washers to increase spring pressure. It didn't take much either .050-.100 iirc. Did not significantly increase bolt lift but did improve accuracy a bit.
I looked aroung for standard spring stock to make a longer or stronger spring and couldnt find anything.

 

[AlNyhus]

this, I had one that did the same thing, made a few simple spacers or washers to increase spring pressure. It didn't take much either .050-.100 iirc. Did not significantly increase bolt lift but did improve accuracy a bit.
I looked aroung for standard spring stock to make a longer or stronger spring and couldnt find anything.

A new spring is Zastava #7288. -Al

 

[AlNyhus]

Thank you for the link, I appreciate it!

So....what did you find out? -Al

 

[Adam in WI]

Does the sear drop down far enough that it doesn't drag on the firing pin? Not sure if that's a possible issue with this design and factory unit but had it happen on a 98 one time with an aftermarket trigger. Just one more thing to check.

 

[DShortt]

So....what did you find out? -Al

Unfortunately it's been a busy week so I haven't had time to look at it yet
I will say a part of the trigger assembly contacting the sear or pin would definitely explain what I'm seeing.

 

[goran]

take the bolt apart remove the firing pin and clean evruthing raly good

 

[DShortt]

Sorry for not updating this thread sooner. I believe I found the problem.

The bedding is bad on the bottom metal which causes the rear portion of the bottom metal to flex up at least .100" when both action screws are tightened.

Between vehicle repairs and the annual novice influx during the onset of rifle deer season at the public range I have to use right now I've not had the opportunity to correct this problem nor check to see if it's fixed.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Wow! Those extractors kind of remind me of the 1891 Mausers. Especially the way they look as assembled into the bolt body.

 

[DGP4]

I believe they are similar to the Sako extractors

 

[Sniperhandle]

I believe they are similar to the Sako extractors

Sako extractors are way shorter and aren't held in the same way at all.