Would this be "stress free bedding"?

[alphapygmy]

I'm putting together a long range hunting rifle and need to bed a fiberglass stock with a poor fitting aluminum bed block. It's a Savage 110 and a B&C medalist stock. After removing some of the bedding block my plan was to wrap part of the barrel in tape and tape under the tang for free floating then use headless action bolts to help position the barreled action where it needs to be. Will letting the Devcon cure with the action just sitting there end up being stress free? I see some people lightly tighten real action screws and others flip the whole thing upside down and use rubber tubing to hold it tight while curing. Thanks

 

[watercam]

When you say 'tang' are you referring to the rear-most part of the receiver or the bottom of the recoil lug? If you mean the recoil lug keep the bedding material off the front and sides of the lug as well. The tang is the rear of the action and I bed the bottom and sides but not the back so as to allow a little give so the stock will have less tendency to crack from recoil (all stocks temporarily warp a tad from recoil, some more than others).
You can find bedding screws that are extra long from Brownells and I think they are worth using. Clean up is easier when the bottom metal is not in the way. Surgical tubing is good, make sure it is plentiful and snug. Make sure you support the barrel in it's channel with tape, business cards, what ever to 1) center the barrel in the channel and 2) allow the action to rest fully into it's spot in the bedding block. Install the barreled action completely first to make sure the barrel is free floating without bedding so as to make sure it stays that way. At that time choose and install your barrel support. I like Brownells Acra-release aerosol release agent as I have never had an action glued in the stock when using it. Cooking spray, auto paste wax and the like have not worked as well for me. If you end up with a glued in action stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours and it should some apart without too much effort.
Have fun! It is only terrifying for the first six guns or so.

 

[alphapygmy]

I do use tape for clearance around the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. When I say tang I mean the very rearmost part of the receiver. It seems most all Savage people say to free float it. I've done about half a dozen bed jobs the way I describe I just wondered if there's a better way. I see vids of the rifles curing upside down being held in a vise and it seems to me that would minutely bend things in ways the rifle won't normally see. I'm hoping Alex Wheeler will chime in, many of his vids are very helpful. He seems very knowledgeable and he has a great reputation.

 

[JohnKielly]

It can take time, but I run two of rings of tape around the barrel enough to clear it the amount you want & to bring the action to the correct location. That way, with headless screws, I can press the action into position & know it's right when the barrel bottoms out in the channel. Then I can hold the barrel in place with tube or whatever.

BTW I find it's easy to make headless screws by grinding the head off socket screws on my linishing belt using a cordless drill.