Wondering why you dont remove the old primer before you tumble?

[pgg]

Just wondering I am sure there is a good reason. Thanks for any knowledge on this. PGG

 

[HolyMeekrob]

I used too for a couple of reasons:
1 - When I decapped with my sizing die because I wanted clean brass to avoid running any crud through my die
2 - When I used a larger media it would get stuck in the flash hole and it was rather annoying to have to go through them all and pop it out.

Now, however, I can decap without running my brass through a die and I use a much smaller media, so I go ahead and knock out the old primers and then tumble.

 

[pgg]

I was thinking if anything it would clean better allowing more inside etc. I am happy to know its not a strict rule that needs to be followed. Thanks PG

 

[bozo699]

pgg,
I don't use a decapping rod in my resizing dies, I use a decapping die. I do remove all my primers prior to tumbling as I don't want all the soot and carbon from the spent primers getting my media any dirtier than necessary. But no it won't clean much if any better with or without them removed. Good luck to you sir and enjoy
Wayne.

 

[DennisH]

When I decapped with my sizing die because I wanted clean brass to avoid running any crud through my die

Same for me!

 

[Travelor]

When I get home from the range I wipe every case down with WD40 on a paper towel. It gets the carbon off the neck and the salts from my handling off and the cases remain bright while waiting to be reloaded. I then neck size and deprime them and clean the primer pockets. THEN I run them through the vibrator clase cleaner.

After that I blow them out with compressed air to dislodge any abrasive from the polishing compound in the tumber media. Another wiping with WD40 on a paper towel and they remain nice and shiny for a long time an get the remaining residue from the tumbler off the exterior.

George

 

[bozo699]

When Imget home form the range I wipe every case down with WD40 on a paper towel. It gets the carbon off the neck
George

George,
I don't use your method and likely won't as I detest the smell of solvents anymore (gives me a splitting headache) But when the throat of my rifle starts to carbon I use WD-40 to remove it, and your right it works.
Wayne.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Most of my BR cases never hit the ground so they stay pretty clean. I'll shoulder bump, neck size and deprime in the same step. If any of them end up in the tumbler and get media in the flash holes, no problem. That just gives me another chance to inspect the case while I punch out the flash hole. IMHO, it never hurts to take a second look at your brass. Or even a third.

 

[fdshuster]

I also knock out the primers before tumbling the cases. Yes, it takes extra time to get the corn cob kernel out of the flash hole ( I use a carpenters awl), but, as NorCalMikie said it also gives extra time to inspect the case for neck splits, and the start of the bright ring at the case head. Even if tumbling with the spent primer in place I would still have the problem of a kernel getting stuck in the flash hole making it even more difficult to get the kernel out, and if using the standard decapping rod on the sizer die ( I usually use a hand punch), a much greater chance to bend the decapping rod, forever knocking it out of alignement with the true center of the die body = more case neck runout.

 

[bozo699]

Frank,
Why don't you use a decapping die? just curious your experience and advice is always welcome with me. I use a Hornady on a dedicated press to decapp with so I don't get soot and carbon on my good dies and on my good presses.
Wayne.

 

[fdshuster]

Wayne: I do have a dedicated decapping die, the RCBS, and it worked 100% perfect until one time I hit the kernel that was stuck in the flash hole and it was knocked off center. Tried everything imaginable to straighten it without any success, so that when using it now, about every third or fourth try will have to lower the ram and rotate the case slightly to get the decapping pin to enter the flash hole. I find it easier and quicker to just knock them out with a proper hand punch, like the ones shown in Sinclairs 2010-B catalog, page 58, except I use a shell holder rather than the base as shown with the Wilson. About the only time I use the decapping die is when I have a large volume of cases to prep. For the 20 to 40 that I usually load for the BR ctgs. the hand punch is preferred.

 

[bozo699]

Frank,
I may give that a try, Thanks.
Wayne.

 

[shot410]

Re: Wondering why you don't remove the old primer before you tumble?

Popping those little pesky kernels of media out of the primer cup is a pain in the butt. Soooo, tumble first then pop the primer out, while resizing. I tried it both ways. The second is the easiest. That from a rookie.....

 

[fdshuster]

shot410: Read my hands-on experience when the fragile decapping rod contacts the kernel that is solidly wedged in the flash hole. Very easy for the decapping rod/pin to be knocked off center and the tip of the pin ends up contacting the inside of the case head, all while you're exerting a lot of pressure on the ram thinking you're pushing the spent primer out of the primer pocket. Results, ?. A decapping rod that is forever bent off center from the center line of the die body. Been there, done that.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Frank: Ever think about calling RCBS and getting a replacement decapping rod? Probably at No Charge. Works for me every time, even if I had to pay a few $$ to get it it would be well worth having it back in operation. Just a thought, Mike.

 

[fdshuster]

Mike: Yes, that's probably a good idea. The way it is now, I'm not getting the full use out of it. It did work extremely well before the rod got bent.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Frank: I never think about the cost of parts to keep everything in like new or usable condition.
RCBS Customer Service is one of "the" best.
A few $$ here and there is nothing compared to what we invest in our hobby. :
Give them a call, (1-800-533-5000 ) tell them what you've got and see if you can get that die back up and running. Won't even cost you for the phone call. Over the years, they have treated me "real good".

 

[MGYSGT]

Someone was talkng about getting thier media dirty and that was their reason for decapping either before or after, I can't remember. However, if you wish to clean it up, put one of the queens (wife) dryer sheets in the media and lots of the crud will stick to the sheet.

 

[NorCalMikie]

I've tried that and it works slick. Picks up some of the fine dust too. And that's a "used" dryer sheet.
Not sure what fabric softener from a new sheet would do on the brass but it sure would smell good.

 

[bozo699]

Someone was talkng about getting thier media dirty and that was their reason for decapping either before or after, I can't remember. However, if you wish to clean it up, put one of the queens (wife) dryer sheets in the media and lots of the crud will stick to the sheet.

MGYSGT,
That was me that said I don't like getting my media dirty. I don't plan on changing my de-priming procedures but I sure will try your dryer sheet idea, Thanks for your input I had not herd of this until now. I have dryer sheets in my loading room now but I have been using them for removing the static from my powder trays and they work great for that. If you are having trouble with your powder sticking to your tray or funnel give it a try. Again many thanks for the tip.
Wayne.