• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Wipe Out

Just used wipe out for the first time. Just let it sit for an hour as they recommended and then used patches to clean it out. Is it really that easy? Just looked down the barrel and it's really clean, I can't believe it.
 
Was that the foam? I use this and it works great at taking out copper. I leave it in 20-30 minutes. If it's really coppered, sometimes I do 3 cleanings to get it all. It turns blue with copper but also some if you use brass cleaning tools.
Wipeout.jpg
 
I've been using it for a while now and seems to work well. Sometimes a second treatment is needed in a 204 I have, but in everything else it does it in one cleaning. Follow up patches don't show any blue.
 
It works in far less time if you use the accelorator as well and brush it.
Simply swish the brush in a small water bottle to clean it. The stuff cleans up with water.
 
I just won a bottle of the stuff last weekend at the world open in Williamsport. I had never tried it before. I let it soak in the barrel all week, each day patching the barrel dry and running a new wet patch through it. After a couple of days I was getting no sign of copper. I do not have a borescope to inspect but the patches are telling me the copper is under control. Only thing I don't really like about it is it's kind of sticky but at least it doesn't smell the house up when cleaning my barrels.
 
It works in far less time if you use the accelorator as well and brush it.

You got that right! I use that way at the range for a quick cleaning session where I'm not interested in making it perfect. One Accelerator patch, followed by one Wipe-Out patch, followed by about 15 strokes with a brush. After that, I dry patch it a few times and call it good.
 
I like to apply it at the range while my barrel(s) are still warm. I find the 40 minute drive home is always enough 'soak time' for my barrels.
I finish my cleaning regimen with a patch of Hoppes followed by a dry one - I don't like the sticky residue either.
 
I have used it for several years now, On my prairies dog rifles I found that when "clean" I was fooled. I have since acquired some BoreTec copper cleaner, When I ran some of that down my clean barrel the patches were deep blue , I now use the foam only if I have no time to use the bore
tec.
 
I tried it based on another thread here. If you're a first time user, you need to know: It expands a lot. start with as short a spurt as you can get. Expect it to come out the barrel anyway. Make sure you have a trey under the muzzle. --Jerry
 
I don't like the sticky residue so clean it with Hoppes on a patch, and lightly oil. I've never used the foam, just the liquid. This is a before and after on a barrel I cleaned for a friend. I think this took 3 applications to get all the copper out.Coppering.jpg
 
A LGS showed me two types of Wipe Out a couple weeks ago. He said one was ammonia based and one wasn't. I haven't tried either, just wondering if the products discussed here are the ammonia or non-ammonia based products.

The sticky residue referenced a few times happens with the Break-Free foam too.
 
I played with this product in 6 different rifles from calibers from 6 XC, 6 BRX, 6.5 Lapua, 6.5 Creed, 7/08,(firing at least 50 shots at least) and a factory 7 Mag firing at least 35 shots.

My thinking was that various products may be more/less effective with the various amounts of powder that is consumed.

Copper removal is good, but powder fouling is another can of worms. I tried Soaking with the foam, over night, several nights in a row, patched it out with a good tight fitting jag. Powder fouling was always present in the bore after two soakings. Then I tried pushing 5 patches of Accelerator through the bore, then foam for two straight nights...no good...powder fouling still in the bore.

I was needing the guns clean to go shoot, so I finished up with brushes and Montana Extreme bore solvent, then Copper Killer.

OK, barrels were fouled real good over the next two weeks, time to start over.
I pushed 4 patches of Accelerator down the bore, then brushed with accelerator, then brushed with Patch Out, let sit over night. The next morning I put 4 dry patches down the bore, and examined with a Lyman bore scope, then Hawkeye. Bore was Clean.

My take is that these products will not work well in removing powder fouling by just soaking and consider that a "pipe dream". All of these barrels are custom barrels with the exception of the 7 Mag, they copper foul very, very little. All copper was removed, even through the 7 Mag where I was shooting 73g of powder.

Powder fouling was removed using this method of brushing with Patch out, and I give those good bronze bristle brushes the credit.

I followed with a single patch of Lighter fluid.

I will add that my experience is much different than I have read about from others, but two different bore scopes do not lie. Also, small cases that shoot say 25g of powder will be easier to clean. I did my testing when the temps were around 70*.

If you have a factory or military barrel that is a bugger to clean, may I suggest a product called Montana Extreme Copper Cream used in conjunction with a brush. This product cleans a barrel very fast and is very easy to use, easier than JB by far.

In Summary, the method that I will suggest with the Wipe Out products is to brush with Accelerator and Patch Out. The Wipe Out products get copper out in a hurry, used in conjunction with the brush.

Also, R#17 seemed to be the hardest powder to remove, and I have noticed that this powder fire cracks barrels quicker than any powder I have ever seen in the 6 XC.
 
Last edited:
I haven't tried either, just wondering if the products discussed here are the ammonia or non-ammonia based products.

Per their website for Wipeout Patchout non-foaming "X. WIPE-OUT “PATCH-OUT” ™ contains NO ACID and NO AMMONIA."

For several years that was my go-to bore cleaning solvent. My only issue was that on some cotton patches it would bead up and not soak in. I changed my cotton patches to ones that it would easily penetrate.

Since then I have change to using Butches Bore Shine first, then going to Bore Tech Cu Remover. To me this works slightly better on my rifles.
 
i have pretty much moved on from WipeOut. There are no short cuts to cleaniing. When my can of WipeOut is empty it will not be replaced.
 
I like the Wipeout foam to remove copper. FIRST clean powder and carbon, which Seafoam and a brush is very effective; otherwise the Wipeout is less effective. Spray in the foam and soak overnight.
 
A LGS showed me two types of Wipe Out a couple weeks ago. He said one was ammonia based and one wasn't. I haven't tried either, just wondering if the products discussed here are the ammonia or non-ammonia based products.

The sticky residue referenced a few times happens with the Break-Free foam too.

I didn't see anything on the bottle (liquid) but is smells like ammonia.
 
I like the Wipeout foam to remove copper. FIRST clean powder and carbon, which Seafoam and a brush is very effective; otherwise the Wipeout is less effective. Spray in the foam and soak overnight.
Never tried Seafoam but it makes sense that any cleaner like that should help. Gumout carb cleaner or an intake manifold cleaner spray should work too since they attack carbon. Don't know what it would to to any finishes so would require a test.

I tried M-Pro 7 and didn't really think it did that well on copper. It does seem to work on carbon. Sometimes I clean with it first before using the Wipe-Out. Avoid contact with any ammonia based products with your brass as it may harden it and make it brittle.
 
Per their website for Wipeout Patchout non-foaming "X. WIPE-OUT “PATCH-OUT” ™ contains NO ACID and NO AMMONIA."

For several years that was my go-to bore cleaning solvent. My only issue was that on some cotton patches it would bead up and not soak in. I changed my cotton patches to ones that it would easily penetrate.

Since then I have change to using Butches Bore Shine first, then going to Bore Tech Cu Remover. To me this works slightly better on my rifles.
I just looked at their website and yes it says "No Ammonia". Sure smells like strong ammonia to me. The bottle I have is 3-4 years old. Don't know if they have changed their formula. The bottle picture on their website is identical to mine.
 
i have had very satisfactory results using a nylon brush with butchs bore shine then patch then hit it with the wipe out foam overnight Will admit I had acfactory 243 barrel that took 5 days of morning/nite applications. My Excalibur barrel has never needed more than 3
 
I have used Wipe-Out for years with great success. I start with Carb-Out or any other basic cleaner (such as Hoppes or Butches). Run 3-4 Wet Patches to get the loose carbon (black gunk out). Then I apply the foam from muzzle after inserting a bore guide with O-ring seals. I wait about 10 minutes for the foam to settle (for the bubbles to disappear) and then I do a second application of foam. I plug the barrel, wait an hour, patch out and I'm done. If the gun will sit for a few months I will add a light coat of Eezox oil.

You notice I didn't talk about brushing. In most of my barrels, I don't need to brush every time. I try to keep brushing to a minimum. YMMV
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
164,874
Messages
2,185,942
Members
78,560
Latest member
Ebupp
Back
Top