Im shooting a 22/243 with the exact zero, set up. As said if close hold a little low or hold high if father off. when i haven had time to range on a few long shots ive held with just a sliver of light between the back and cross hairs and let drop in. Calibers like these may not be for every one but they sure make hunting fun when a coyote stands broad side thinking they are safe so far off and you can still bust their ass so easy.
Who uses a 300 yard zero when hunting coyotes?
- Thread starter 370bc
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Im shooting a 22/243 with the exact zero, set up. As said if close hold a little low or hold high if father off. when i haven had time to range on a few long shots ive held with just a sliver of light between the back and cross hairs and let drop in. Calibers like these may not be for every one but they sure make hunting fun when a coyote stands broad side thinking they are safe so far off and you can still bust their ass so easy.
nakneker
Gold $$ Contributor
I'm in the miniority here but I like a 100 yard zero, 1/4 inch high at a hundred has worked for me for a long time on all of my varmint rifles. We hunt a lot of sage and rocks and many of the shots in a given year are just eyes and nose looking over a rock or another situation that presents a very small target. I like being able to put the crosshairs right on at a hundred and using the reticle out to 400. Most of the shots calling are at a 100 or less. After that you can usually move a little and range. Many of the yotes hang up at 600-800 yards due to the pressure around here. We usually call, if the set up permits, for about 15-20 minutes and then glass for critters that aren't coming in but that are curious or the occasional smart ass that barks at you and thinks he's is safe. Then we dial. To each their own, nothing works better than practice with whatever method you choose. Practice practice practice. The targets are small.
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My experience and reasoning are similar, although I use a 240 yard zero (1.1" high at 100, 1.5" maximum midrange) for my 22BR/40gr NBT/4100fps. I can head shoot, or thread a shot through the sage, at a partly-visible coyote without having to think about where to hold at the ranges where these kinds of shots are usually taken (<200 yards). The bullet is 2.8" low at 300 yards, so fine for a center-hold body shot. Shots longer than 300 yards are rare where I call coyotes -- the cover is too thick and the terrain too flat.
For longer shots that have to be ranged I use a 6BR with 95gr Berger VLDs. That represents maybe 2% of my coyote hunting.
long40shot
Gold $$ Contributor
For you guys running a 22 caliber rifle, what bullet weight do you prefer?
Im shooing the 75g amax for most of my hunting. Ive started trying the 75g swift for hogs but havent really had a chance to test other than a small batch for sighting in.
So far the best overall I've tried in 40 years hunting them has got to be the Sierra 69 gr. TMK out of my AR. But it's not a "fur bullet".
Got a buddy that refuses to use anything but zeroing in 2.5 high at 100 in all his guns then just aiming high beyond 350. I keep telling him to buy a good rangefinder and dial your range. His thought is that he doesn't have time to range or adjust his scope. It's a hard sell for him. He does ok but 95% of his kills are 400 or less. Most guns are PBR to 400 or close.
It sounds like your buddy has his head screwed on correctly to me. That is exactly the way to set it up for coyotes.... out West that is. Easterners don't need that setup.... but if you ever hunt those doggies on West... then set up for that open country.
AND.... you don't need a rangefinder out to 400 yds... it's not necessary. Learn your drops out to that range and then you don't have to range anything up to that distance. I have Zeiss ranging/binos and never range unless it's past 400. Learn your rifle and learn it's drops. If you have a fast bullet with a great BC... then you can pretty much hold on hair for a kill.... but if it's a slower BC... then learn it's drops. When coyotes are coming in out there in late open Western county... you don't have much time to range each one... as long it's under 400 .... you will be Golden. I go out West every year for a month to chase those things... if anyone wants to hook up... give me a ring.
AND.... you don't need a rangefinder out to 400 yds... it's not necessary. Learn your drops out to that range and then you don't have to range anything up to that distance. I have Zeiss ranging/binos and never range unless it's past 400. Learn your rifle and learn it's drops. If you have a fast bullet with a great BC... then you can pretty much hold on hair for a kill.... but if it's a slower BC... then learn it's drops. When coyotes are coming in out there in late open Western county... you don't have much time to range each one... as long it's under 400 .... you will be Golden. I go out West every year for a month to chase those things... if anyone wants to hook up... give me a ring.
With my TAC20 and 20/250AI I am dead on @ 250. Just started using my 6mmBR and am dead on @ 225yds. Basically all my guns are under 1.75" mid range. My average range "to impact" is right at 120 yards. Very RARELY will I have a shot greater than 200 yards. They will come closer. As long as they are pointed at you they will normally continue in, even after stopping. When they turn sideways, they are "thinking" about not coming in closer, and perhaps leaving.
Calling/shooting prone I am 100% sure of my hit at 200yds in. Beyond that, not so sure. Therefore....
Carl L.
Calling/shooting prone I am 100% sure of my hit at 200yds in. Beyond that, not so sure. Therefore....
Carl L.
Absolutely. It works for him just fine. I do know that he had some longer shots that if he had a scope for the longer ranges, he could do both. He hunts mule deer and antelope the same way. Does well on them too.
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