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Who Makes the Strongest Single Stage Press?

BoydAllen said:
What the heck did you do to stress it that much?

I created the perfect storm by attempting to mate a Glock fire formed 45 ACP case and a minimum SAAMI spec Redding F/L sizing die [prior to using the Lee Bulge Buster, which is the proper sequence of events]. The F/L sizing comes first, but it never made it that far. Maybe an additional 7 years of robust use made it give up the ghost. Anyway, parts are on the way. In the meantime, I thought I'd look around for perhaps a larger/stronger toy. :)
 
Outdoorsman said:
BoydAllen said:
What the heck did you do to stress it that much?

I created the perfect storm by attempting to mate a Glock fire formed 45 ACP case and a minimum SAAMI spec Redding F/L sizing die [prior to using the Lee Bulge Buster, which is the proper sequence of events]. The F/L sizing comes first, but it never made it that far. Maybe an additional 7 years of robust use made it give up the ghost. Anyway, parts are on the way. In the meantime, I thought I'd look around for perhaps a larger/stronger toy. :)
Would not have been needed if as you say if it was done properly.

The point is if you need this "strongest stage press", there is usually a problem in the procedure and using a very strong press is just the brute force approach which is usually not the way to go.
 
This morning Peter at Lee Precision and I discussed the problem I encountered. He said that I was following the instructions correctly. However, he said that I need to sneak up on or ensure that the cam-over is applied at the very moment that the press applies its greatest force by adjusting the die for that specific event. And, that some cases require quite a substantial force well beyond what's normally needed. :)
 
BoydAllen said:
What the heck did you do to stress it that much?

Reminds me of a T handle out of a high-quality 1/2" socket set I once had to replace under warranty. Loaned the set to a guy to work on the suspension of his car.

They replaced it happily under its lifetime warranty but the guy in the shop asked "How big a length of pipe extension did you have on it?". I think the answer was about 3' and he was jumping on it..
 
ChrisNZ said:
BoydAllen said:
What the heck did you do to stress it that much?

Reminds me of a T handle out of a high-quality 1/2" socket set I once had to replace under warranty. Loaned the set to a guy to work on the suspension of his car.

They replaced it happily under its lifetime warranty but the guy in the shop asked "How big a length of pipe extension did you have on it?". I think the answer was about 3' and he was jumping on it..
Don’t loan your good tools out to the Neanderthals! ;D
 
I bought a new Rock Chucker Supreme when they came out to replace my old Rock Chucker that I had bought used 25 years before. One month with the new press and I snapped the handle off the press.RCBS sent me a new handle and I put it on the press and sold it .I am still using the old Rock Chucker .Glad I did not sell it when the not so Supreme arrived. I don't remember what caused it to snap but I have never tried forming brass from another caliber. That seems like work to me. I am allergic to that!
 
Outdoorsman said:
The Handle snapped off at the right hand / Toggle Block junction! The handle is slightly bent at the attachment point too.

RCBS is sending parts for FREE, as always.

Just looking around the robust single stage press neighborhood. :)
Wondering....did that snap off at the last exposed (if there is one) thread? I'm not familiar with the construction of that press but does the handle thread into the toggle block junction?
 
http://www.corbins.com/
Mine is a monster. I have literally stood on the handle
running 50 cal bullets through a sizing die :)
John H.
 
M-61 said:
Outdoorsman said:
The Handle snapped off at the right hand / Toggle Block junction! The handle is slightly bent at the attachment point too.

RCBS is sending parts for FREE, as always.

Just looking around the robust single stage press neighborhood. :)
Wondering....did that snap off at the last exposed (if there is one) thread? I'm not familiar with the construction of that press but does the handle thread into the toggle block junction?

Yes, the handle treads into the toggle block junction. It was turned all the way in on the right side. The press and drawing: http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/rockchuckersupremepressinstructions.pdf
 
Forester Co-Ax. Have been using mine for over 35 years. I have a RCBS and have never had a problem as long as its mounted in a solid manner.
 
Outdoorsman said:
M-61 said:
Outdoorsman said:
The Handle snapped off at the right hand / Toggle Block junction! The handle is slightly bent at the attachment point too.

RCBS is sending parts for FREE, as always.

Just looking around the robust single stage press neighborhood. :)
Wondering....did that snap off at the last exposed (if there is one) thread? I'm not familiar with the construction of that press but does the handle thread into the toggle block junction?

Yes, the handle treads into the toggle block junction. It was turned all the way in on the right side. The press and drawing: http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/rockchuckersupremepressinstructions.pdf
Thanks for the excellent drawing link. What they refer to as a jam nut, the thread that would stick above it would be the weakest point. Although I would imagine a large amount of force would be required to snap it off it is interesting that the handle also bent. I assume that the first thread exposed is where the break occurred. On their Summit press that handle screws flush with the toggle block. On their A-4 the handle is secured BEHIND the toggle block by a locking (jam) nut. Both make for a stronger connection by eliminating any exposed thread. By design it is not the best but exempting a material flaw it is surprising it failed. What is not surprising is RCBS's customer service....always A++. Is it possible to screw the handle all the way thru the toggle block and use the jam nut on the back side? The handle would have to be flush with the block though to make a connection that would be stronger or at least less likely to fail.
 
Yes, you could put the nut on the back side of the toggle block, and I did that once, but was told the appropriate location was on top. I had it screwed in all the way with the locking nut in the correct location as shown in photo 1.
 
Outdoorsman said:
Yes, you could put the nut on the back side of the toggle block, and I did that once, but was told the appropriate location was on top. I had it screwed in all the way with the locking nut in the correct location as shown in photo 1.
Yes I am sure you had it installed according to their instructions. I am sure in most usage it is a triumph of material over design. However, in whatever you were doing the material gave up. I think repeating the exact same action will result with the same ending.
 
how about this one


http://www.albertatacticalrifle.com/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/3627-atrs-accu-maxx-reloading-press

I have sen in person a work of art Jeff
 

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