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Which Scale Check Weights?

The original post was in January. I made my standard for free out of stainless steel. All I want to use it for is to adjust my zero on the beam. It's a piece of metal and it's weight doesn't change. I weighed it at work to at least 4 decimals. Repeatability not accuracy. If it's an electronic scale the same deal does it weigh what it's supposed to be?
 
Kind of funny how things that sound hard sometimes get answered in a post or too, but some simple-sounding topics like this thread about a hunk of metal just keep chugging along.

What is the best check weight if you’re loading for a 6.5 Creedmoor?
 
The original post was in January. I made my standard for free out of stainless steel. All I want to use it for is to adjust my zero on the beam. It's a piece of metal and it's weight doesn't change. I weighed it at work to at least 4 decimals. Repeatability not accuracy. If it's an electronic scale the same deal does it weigh what it's supposed to be?
I would like to buy some various weights from you.
 
i need to buy a GOOD set of scale check weights. Please throw some options at me as to which weights are accurate and reliable.

Also, let me know which weights you would not recommend due to inconsistency of weight.
i need to buy a GOOD set of scale check weights. Please throw some options at me as to which weights are accurate and reliable.

Also, let me know which weights you would not recommend due to inconsistency of weight.
A very entertaining (and a little old) thread.
 
I bought a cheap set off ebay. They are as precise as the weights that came with my ChargeMaster.

I'm not too concerned about an inert chunk of metal somehow becoming unreliable. Am I missing something?
I made my own weights at work out of stainless steel and weighed them on a very accurate lab scale. There is no need to weigh accurately. You just want to see if the scale weighs the piece of metal the same each time. before use.
 
Over a decade ago, for a brief time I was able to borrow a milligram scale of decent quality. While I had it I weighed a number of coins of different denominations and put them and a list of their weights in an envelope in the drawer where I keep my 10-10 scale. At the time, I checked the weights on my scale and they were very close, well within my need for precision. As a practical matter,I do not need to weigh powder to the granule and I generally use one scale for all loading. As long as it gives the same result for multiple weighings of the same thing, and that weight very close to correct, I am good to go.
 
Checking reload scales for consistency only is a bit like bathroom scales without a graduation. 1lb is 1lb.
It depends on your needs.
 
Renewed interest in this old thread has peaked my interest again :)
My current good scale is a A&D EJ-54D2. I use it in gram mode as my cal/check weights are in grams.
The math isn't that hard.
On the low range 20grams or so the software allows you to perform the calibration at any 'Full scale' value.
I use 10 grams as that covers my bullets, cases, powder and primer. I check at 1 and 2 grams.
My check weights are pretty good, ASTM Class 1, which is better than needed by a long shot.
The scale (on the low range) counts by 0.0002 grams, and typically will repeat to 0.0004 grams (2 counts).
Again, better than needed. I take extreme care in setting it level (to the built in spot level). Re calibration (@ 10 grams) is seldom needed, just a warm up, zero and go. Since I don't have a temperature controlled lab zero can be an issue. Instead of using the software Auto-Zero (turned off in software) I do have to rezero/tare every so often likely due to slight temperature changes in the room.

I sure this thread will pop up from time to time over the next few years :)
 
Nothing is wrong with them.
In fact comforting to have them .
Tell me about that old scale in the picture, very cool
Ahh Jim, the old scale in the picture would more properly be called a balance, it doesn't weigh anything. You need to zero it using a known mass. This particular one was made by Pacific, and at a total guess, probably dates from the 1950's. It's not damped in any way and just so simple there's very little to go wrong.
The balance was supplied with a set of grain checkweights, including some little 10th gn weights.
I also have another of this type, also Pacific, oil damped, I would guess of a slightly later date.
 
Exact weight matters none. The best check weight is a bullet that you scratch the weight into and keep with the scale. No need to waste money on check weights
I use a bullet, A 150gr SMK I chk my scale for zero and 150grs but I use beam scales, that I tuned myself under the shadetree, I done the work in the Lab at work, where I use to work it has some very accurate equipment, scales, Zeiss CMM, blah blah 23 computers, and quiet room where there is no dust, temp is controlled no vibrations blah blah, lab coats, nice surface plates, tools, Renshaw equip
 
I use ASTM Class 1 and 2 weights.
Getting ready to do some sorting (3.700 grains).
Check weights 200mg, 30mg, and 10mg.
Using gram mode, low range on my EJ-54D2 gives me 0.0002g resolution (0.00309grains).
0.2398g +/- a count should do it.
I'll use my A&D ER-182A to spot check results.
3.704GRAINS.jpg
 
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