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Which Chargemaster?

No complaints at all with my 1500, and like CT10ring, I used to double check charges on a beam scale until I found charge weights were same. For my objectives, charge weight accuracy to a tenth is plenty adequate.
 
I'd recommend that you forget about the automation and spend the same dollars on a more precise scale, that way you can load more accurately and more consistently.

For small quantities like load development, I'll use one of those Lee powder spoons, to get close then perfect the load on my milligram scale. For larger batches I'll use an old RCBS powder thrower, then perfect the load on my milligram scale. Either of these options are faster than the chargemaster and certainly more accurate.

I once had an RCBS chargemaster but was all to happy to sell it after I bought a Sartorious that measured to 0.02 grains (by read out), then I was all to happy to sell off the Sartorious after I bought a Vibra HT 220 that reads to 0.002 grains. The Vibra HT 220 may drift a little, usually from atmospheric pressure changes like when the furnace or AC kicks on, but other than that its a rock. Even if it does drift, it is well inside 1/3 kernel of Varget.

Now it does depend greatly what type of shooting you do. If you shoot inside 600 yards, then a 2 decimal place sale is probably good enough. If you shoot bench rest or F Class out to 1000 yards or farther, and have any hope of winning these days, spend your money on a good milligram scale and forget the automation.

I'm not saying you have to go all in and get a Vibra HT 220, but have a look on Amazon and you'll find a bunch of milligram scales in the Chargemaster 1500 price range, but I do caution you to err toward the more premium milligram scales as you do get what you pay for.

Tip, I do run my Vibra HT 220 on a granite surface plate by Starrett, but you can also use the cut off pieces from granite counter tops. You might find them in the scrap area at a ceramic tile store or kitchen cabinet shop. Sometimes they give suitable pieces away as samples. Another option is a grave stone, you might go to where they are sold and pick one out with no engraving on it.
 
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It is hard to believe an Ohaus is inconsistent. In fact, I have never experienced this problem with a balance beam scale. Almost every electronic scale tends to drift and must be re-zeroed several times during use. Consistency with the Ohaus depends on it's being level, which should be checked in each session.

The electronic scale is subject to many variables, including line voltage variance, and sporadic interference from other electronic equipment in the house. Heat changes are also a major factor. When you zero an electronic scale and then remove the pan, you will see what is called tare. As you use the scale that changes over time. This is drift but the scale does not make up the difference and although it shows the weight you set it for it will be lighter. The Ohaus does not drift unless you have air moving from forced air of some sort. Furnace, fan or other sources. The inside of the Chargemaster contains electronics that emit heat on their own and a motor. As they heat up their values also change which creates drift.
Nick is correct in the sense that a typical reloaders beam scale does not react to voltage fluctuations and the furnace or water heater, but balance beam scales are still nowhere near as accurate as a "good" digital scale.

The only reason a particular beam scale does not drift from air currents is because it is not accurate enough to be affected by it. That's no different than a 0.1 grain digital scale which you can wave at all you want without changing the read.

As I mentioned above, I use a Vibra HT 220, and there's a reason for that. The weight sensing system in the Vibra is unique in the world of scales as it is not subject to warm up periods or voltage inconsistencies.

The Vibra HT 220 has built in automatic calibration and it will automatically re-calibrate after a period of inactivity.

I've tested a few beam scales against my Vibra HT 220 and quickly dismissed the myth that they are better than digital scales. A good beam scale may be better than a cheap 0.1 grain scale, but they are not better than a good 0.02 grain scale, and definitely not even close to a good 0.002 grain scale.

I had this Satorious beam scale for a while that I bought from a professor from the university many years ago, I wish I still had it just to show you a picture of it. It was an elaborate affair full of multiple beams and ruby pivots that once upon a time would have been the envy of every pharmacist in the land, as good as that was, it does not hold a candle to my Vibra HT 220.

This Satorious beam scale was affected by air currents, that's why it requires a glass enclosure.

I actually found a similar one on ebay, so here's some pics.

I do not know what accuracy they claimed these were capable of but its obviously more advanced than a typical beam scale.

s-l1600.jpg



s-l1600.jpg
 
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Seven years with the 1500 so far. Wouldn't be without it. Like @Big Mc I reprogramed the speeds. I also tried the straw trick but didn't have any good luck. When getting down to the last couple of tenths, the little mounds of powder that sat on those straw teeth would sometimes dump and jump the weight. With the final few tenths set to very slow speed the problem went away without the straw. Very accurate and consistent. I haven't used the Lite, but I'm sure it would work great. I record loads in a book, so the Lite would probably have worked for me too. Just wasn't an option at the time.
The same here with my 1500. I did make my own reducer to change how the powder dropped, it is a combination of a Bic pen tip and a plastic type bushing that i sourced at my local True Value. The reprograming has made a big difference, I tweaked most of the settings. The accuracy of each powder dispense was greatly improved over the standard settings, the final trickle speed seems to be the most important.
Tim
 
Nick is correct in the sense that a beam scale does not react to voltage fluctuations and the furnace or water heater, but balance beam scales are still nowhere near as accurate as a "good" scale.

As I mentioned above, I use a Vibra HT 200, and there's a reason for that. The weight sensing system in the Vibra is unique in the world of scales as it is not subject to warm up periods or voltage inconsistencies.

It has built in automatic calibration and it will automatically re-calibrate after a period of inactivity.

I've tested a few beam scales against my Vibra HT 220 and quickly dismissed the myth that they are better than digital scales. A good beam scale may be better than a cheap 0.1 grain scale, but they are not better than a good 0.02 grain scale, and definitely not even close to a good 0.002 grain scale.

I had this one Satorious beam scale for a while, I wish I still had it just to show you a picture of it. It was an elaborate affair full of multiple beams and ruby pivots that once upon a time would have been the envy of every pharmacist in the land, as good as that was, it does not hold a candle to my Vibra HT 220.

I found one on ebay.


s-l1600.jpg
No doubt this is a wonder and accurate scale. But, it look cumbersome to use. I see no way to dispense powder.
 
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Nick is correct in the sense that a typical reloaders beam scale does not react to voltage fluctuations and the furnace or water heater, but balance beam scales are still nowhere near as accurate as a "good" digital scale.

The only reason a particular beam scale does not drift from air currents is because it is not accurate enough to be affected by it. That's no different than a 0.1 grain digital scale which you can wave at all you want without changing the read.

As I mentioned above, I use a Vibra HT 200, and there's a reason for that. The weight sensing system in the Vibra is unique in the world of scales as it is not subject to warm up periods or voltage inconsistencies.

The Vibra HT 200 has built in automatic calibration and it will automatically re-calibrate after a period of inactivity.

I've tested a few beam scales against my Vibra HT 220 and quickly dismissed the myth that they are better than digital scales. A good beam scale may be better than a cheap 0.1 grain scale, but they are not better than a good 0.02 grain scale, and definitely not even close to a good 0.002 grain scale.

I had this Satorious beam scale for a while that I bought from a professor from the university many years ago, I wish I still had it just to show you a picture of it. It was an elaborate affair full of multiple beams and ruby pivots that once upon a time would have been the envy of every pharmacist in the land, as good as that was, it does not hold a candle to my Vibra HT 220.

This Satorious beam scale was affected by air currents, that's why it requires a glass enclosure.

I actually found a similar one on ebay, so here's some pics.

I do not know what accuracy they claimed these were capable of but its obviously more advanced than a typical beam scale.

s-l1600.jpg



s-l1600.jpg
Holly Moley!!!
 
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Reactions: Dub
I got a 1500 back when there was no Lite version, and have used it for years with a lot of satisfaction. If the Lite version is less expensive and just as accurate, and you don't need to added features of the 1500, then seems like a logical choice. They are accurate to a level of about plus or minus a tenth of a grain. That has been more than acceptable for loads for 223 and larger rounds.

Recently I started loading for a 17 Hornet, and the +/- a tenth of a grain was now not accurate enough. So I purchased the A&D EJ-54D2 scale, which is more accurate and less money than the FX-120i, though slower to settle. I throw charges to .1 below my intended weight with my 1500. I then transfer the powder to the tray on the A&S scale and use a Dandy Trickler to bring it to exact weight I'm wanting. It's more labor intensive than using the Auto-Trickler, but the overall cost is a lot less.

If you don't need more than accuracy of plus or minus .05 grains, then save money.
 
LOL, the OP thought he was asking a simple question.
Sure did, and some of us even gave simple answers. LOL.

That scale contraption looks like electronic equipment I maintained in the USAF over 35yrs ago, AC motor powered trough modulators, belt driven goniometers, etc. and that stuff was used for aircraft navigation. :rolleyes:

Was so glad when it all went the way of the dinosaur when replaced with solid state systems, but, can say I've worked on every iteration from post-WWII Naval equipment modified for stationary ground us to "state of the art" at time I retired in '95.
 
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Since I do 98% of my loading at the range, the Lite has served me well. I also have a 1500, but have not used it for years. I also have a Denver Electronics that is useless at the range, but serves well in my bullet making.

I do wish I could make the ChargeMaster Lite skip the round count feature. It is a worthless feature that just adds time to the cycle.
What type of mobile power supply do you use?
 

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