Okay, I realize that this is a pretty open question, so I will try to explain my goals. Until recently there has been no place around to shoot at ranges like this, and now there is. Knowing that I am a very competive sort, I want a rifle that will allow me to compete in as many events as possible. I do not know what kind of competitions this club is planning at the moment. I am particularly interested in bench rest and F-class events. I am also a big fan of Savage rifles, so at the moment my dillema is which of the new Savage F-Class rifles to buy. My decision is down to the 6mm BR and the 308. I do not think I want to with the 6.5x 284 because of the the shorter barrel life. I also realize that the 308 might let me compete in more events. Immediately, I will probably just be shooting by myself for tiny little groups. I think that the 6mmBr is gonna be a little pricier to reload for, at least at first but will probably to prove to be slightly more accurate. What do you guys think and why?
Which Caliber for 600 yards 6BR or 308
- Thread starter CZ223
- Start date
600 yards 6mmbr.
For just a wee bit more than a factory rifle you might want to consider a Savage semi-custom.
You buy a savage target action, SSS stock, SSS lug, Prefit Pac-nor or have a smith screw in.
$450 target action
$330 Stock
$450 barrel
$30 lug
$50 base
$75 rings
$500 scope
Total $1885
Now you might be able to get components even cheaper, but thats a sighly higher than normal part list.
I would suggest if you go to the custom route of getting a 6mmbr reamer throated for 105 scenars.
RHINOUT!
For just a wee bit more than a factory rifle you might want to consider a Savage semi-custom.
You buy a savage target action, SSS stock, SSS lug, Prefit Pac-nor or have a smith screw in.
$450 target action
$330 Stock
$450 barrel
$30 lug
$50 base
$75 rings
$500 scope
Total $1885
Now you might be able to get components even cheaper, but thats a sighly higher than normal part list.
I would suggest if you go to the custom route of getting a 6mmbr reamer throated for 105 scenars.
RHINOUT!
Rhino, this is a another route that I have considered but why would I choose this over the factory rifle that, by all accounts, are incredible shhoters. If you are correct on costs I would have around $300 left over for say a second barrel were I to go with the factory rifle. So, while I am not disagreeing with you I would to hear your reasons for choosing the semi custom route over the factory rifle. Also, as far as scopes go I have several Leupold VXIII's and a NIkon Monarch in 6.5 x20 as well others in lesser powered ranges so I would probaly start with either the Nikon or a Leupold in 6.5x20. I would probaly also use the burris rings with the inserts. I think they call them Z rings or some such thing.
I have used a couple different modified 6mm brs and a 308 in 600 yd comp and have won with all. Using 168gr VLD bullets in my 308 I believe I still got more wind drift than the 6mm 105gr bullets. The bc actually was less with the 308 and my experience proved this out. But that 308 would sure shoot if the wind wasn't too bad.
Factory rifle barrels vary to much. Yes you could get a good Factory F-class 6br. However I know a guy with a 6.5x284 and his stuff is out of wack.
I would send in your rifle to lets say Bartlein and have the action trued and have them set the barrel. Not much more than listed installation price.
That way if your scope holes aren't lined up or you need the reciever threads straightened and re-cut it can be done then.
A factory rifle is just that a factory rifle that is mass produced.
A semi-custom would give you a great barrel and any botchs by the factory would be fixed.
You could save money with the burris insert rings and you could find a used Single shot Savage action for less than $400.
The stock on the factory rifle has an unusally wide bustock and your stock with a blaah color.
You'd save some money yeah with the factory, but you'd get closer to your tastes with a semi-custom.
RHINOUT!
I would send in your rifle to lets say Bartlein and have the action trued and have them set the barrel. Not much more than listed installation price.
That way if your scope holes aren't lined up or you need the reciever threads straightened and re-cut it can be done then.
A factory rifle is just that a factory rifle that is mass produced.
A semi-custom would give you a great barrel and any botchs by the factory would be fixed.
You could save money with the burris insert rings and you could find a used Single shot Savage action for less than $400.
The stock on the factory rifle has an unusally wide bustock and your stock with a blaah color.
You'd save some money yeah with the factory, but you'd get closer to your tastes with a semi-custom.
RHINOUT!
Well, I'd say go with the factory .308 to get started. Main reaason is versatilty as a factory .308 should shoot everything from a 110 gr varmint bullet to a 190 gr match bullet with the factory twist. I don't know where the rumor got started that a 1-10 twist is needed in .308 for a 175 SMK, but they stabilize fine in a 1-12. Shoot, a 1-10 will stabilize a 210 Berger as I know someone who is using just that combination,some folks just can't resist being different from everyone else).
Now the main problem with a factory rifle is primarily the chamber itself which tends towards the large end of SAAMI spec. This overworks the brass which shortens brass life and makes it difficult to control neck tension unless regular annealing is done. The quick fix is to set the barrel back a thread or two and clean up the chamber with a match reamer. Sonething like an AMU chamber works pretty well for .308. the other thing that is ocasionally seen in a factory chamber is that it's reamer off center of the bore centerline, never a good thing. While the barrel is off, have a clean crown cut.
I've got a 700 that the factory hammer forged barrel is purely a wonder, didn't think a hammer forged barrel would shoot this well, nearly as well as a good aftermarket barrel, and it's stable,doesn't move POI as the barrel warms up). It seems to like a 155 Scenar with a butt load of RL-15 behind it. Still a work in progress and I'll be setting the barrel back a couple of threads in the near future, whenever I get around to it.
But if you chose any factory rifle, you will be looking at the same issues to one degree of severity or another. But what a factory rifle does do is get you on the range upon receipt of the rifle. Then you can work on sorting out shooting to the ability of the rifle while you get bits and pieces together for the next stage.
Another thing about .308, greater availability, everyone makes a .308 where for 6mmBR the choices of makers is very limited.
Now the main problem with a factory rifle is primarily the chamber itself which tends towards the large end of SAAMI spec. This overworks the brass which shortens brass life and makes it difficult to control neck tension unless regular annealing is done. The quick fix is to set the barrel back a thread or two and clean up the chamber with a match reamer. Sonething like an AMU chamber works pretty well for .308. the other thing that is ocasionally seen in a factory chamber is that it's reamer off center of the bore centerline, never a good thing. While the barrel is off, have a clean crown cut.
I've got a 700 that the factory hammer forged barrel is purely a wonder, didn't think a hammer forged barrel would shoot this well, nearly as well as a good aftermarket barrel, and it's stable,doesn't move POI as the barrel warms up). It seems to like a 155 Scenar with a butt load of RL-15 behind it. Still a work in progress and I'll be setting the barrel back a couple of threads in the near future, whenever I get around to it.
But if you chose any factory rifle, you will be looking at the same issues to one degree of severity or another. But what a factory rifle does do is get you on the range upon receipt of the rifle. Then you can work on sorting out shooting to the ability of the rifle while you get bits and pieces together for the next stage.
Another thing about .308, greater availability, everyone makes a .308 where for 6mmBR the choices of makers is very limited.
The savage action is definitely a good buy, and the advice on the burris rings is also good,you can get different inserts to compensate moa.I like that scenario.Just did a similiar build.
+1 on Rhino's advise. The joy of the Savage system is that it is so easy to customize, and the barrel is such an integral part of how your gun will shoot. The stock from SSS or a Shehane would be great values.
When you learn how to screw on your own barrels for the Savage actions, you will really start having fun.
When you learn how to screw on your own barrels for the Savage actions, you will really start having fun.
What lynn said, get a 6BR and never look back. I did exactly that and I can't wait. I should have done it a long time ago, I would have saved a bunch of time and money. If you don't want to build a custom, take a good look at the Savage 6BR F-Class. I am building a custom 6BR with a Stiller Predator Action, Bartlein 28", 1-8 twist, .236 bore barrel, Jewel trigger, Stiller 20MOA Base, Vias Muzzle brake bedded bedded into a Manners T4A stock. The cost with all components and gunsmithing was $3350.00. If you go with a BAT or Nesika action it will run you around $3850.00. If you go with the Savage F-Class it will run you around $1150.00. I hope this helps.
I pretty much did what rhino said about 18 mo. ago. The cost was closer to $1100 then, maybe higher now. 6mmBr has good bullet choice and high quality brass,Lapua). I'm shooting 87 Hornady Vmax with very good accuracy out to 400yds. Recoil is light and SSS can supply a great stock. If you load your own, 6mmBR is the way to go, and with Savage the 308 barrel is $300 away. Hanic
I kind of thought this thread would be long dead by now. Since it is not I will ask another question that is pertinant. As I stated in the original post I was looking at the Savge F Class rifles in 308 and 6mmBR. I can get a 308 locally for right around $1000. Since I already switch barrels on my other Savage rifles I was considering buying the 308 and then buying another barrel in 6mmBR. I would probably buy a custom barrel in 6mm BR later as the cost of the Savage is close to $300 anyway so why not spend a little more and get a custom. My question is this, are the bolt faces for the 308 and the 6mm the same? Does this not sound like a good idea to you Savage fans?
Forum Boss
Administrator
6mmbr, 6.5x47, .243 Win, .308, 30-06 all share same bolt face.,But you'd normally need a long action to shoot the 30-06 and feed from a magazine).
Moderator said:
For a strictly single shot rifle, it doesn't matter. Case in point: At one time, every Remington 40x was a short action. You could buy one with a Magnum bolt face, but it was still a short action. To remove a loaded round, you had to trip the bolt release for the meplat to clear the loading port - but you could unload the round.
Many a .300 WinMag or 7mm Magnum were built on such actions.
CZ223,
I suggest that you get yourself a good reloading manual that shows a dimensional drawing of the case, this information will allow you readily reference to all case dimension's. I know my Nosler reloading guide sure helped to educate me, the diagrams sure comes in handy when planning a switch-barrel build or what wildcat cartridges to try next.
RJ
I suggest that you get yourself a good reloading manual that shows a dimensional drawing of the case, this information will allow you readily reference to all case dimension's. I know my Nosler reloading guide sure helped to educate me, the diagrams sure comes in handy when planning a switch-barrel build or what wildcat cartridges to try next.
RJ
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.