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Which 4 Jaw D1-5 chuck for chambering?

I hate to side-track OP post but let's say you have an Encore or Contender barrel that is 17" long and you need to thread it for a supressor. You going to be able to hold it in a 6 jaw?

My bud does a lot of muzzle threading. The ID of his spindle is within .0005. I machined a piece of 303 about 6" long to a slip fit in the spindle. I bored and threaded it for a 1 1/16x16. Slide it in the spindle, snug your 4 set screws on the LH of your spindle and he uses his cathead on the RH of the spindle to indicate the bore.
Now for the guys that are math majors, tell how much being out .00025 to say .001 at the bore in the chamber effect the indicated muzzle position?
 
The Encore/Contender has a lug hanging off the back and would require a 2-1/2" bore to center it in headstock. I've never used a 6 jaw but don't think you could hold it. You can with a 3 lug and with a set-tru you could get it to run true. I finally had success getting good concentricity copying Mike Belm's method.
Belm precision crowning

Yes, the block would be a deal breaker. I’m only 2-1/16 spindle bore.

If I had a spindle bore big enough I could still use my 6 jaw. I guess technically I’m only using 3 of the 6 jaws and really the jaws I made could be put on any scroll chuck of the same tongue and groove size.

I will have to read through your link to Blem precision tonight.
 
Picked up a 8" Bison 3 jaw set-tru months back on eBay. Didn't come with a back plate so ordered one from Shars and machined to fit, added some soft jaws all for around $250 total. It's about all I use now unless something is just to short then I go to the spider.
 

That is what I currently use, no complaints now... When I first bought it I was making split tapered sleeves to hold the barrels so I could do the crown/muzzle brakes. That got old real fast. I took some steel soft jaws and made a 3 piece set that lets me grab any taper, that made things much better. It’s pricey when you figure in a bison 6 jaw but i sure like the features.
 
That is what I currently use, no complaints now... When I first bought it I was making split tapered sleeves to hold the barrels so I could do the crown/muzzle brakes. That got old real fast. I took some steel soft jaws and made a 3 piece set that lets me grab any taper, that made things much better. It’s pricey when you figure in a bison 6 jaw but i sure like the features.

I read the description and I must be missing something. How is that different than a 6-jaw set tru?
 
I read the description and I must be missing something. How is that different than a 6-jaw set tru?

I'm going to mince my terms so I apologize in advance.

A set-tru centers your work.

The SSG set through, allows you to do that, plus the chuck pivots axially on a backplate.

So you can chuck up an action, or a barrel, and align the Z axis of your part

 
I'm going to mince my terms so I apologize in advance.

A set-tru centers your work.

The SSG set through, allows you to do that, plus the chuck pivots axially on a backplate.

So you can chuck up an action, or a barrel, and align the Z axis of your part

I have used the TBAS for several years for chambering, it is very fast to dial in, and once dialed in it does not move. If you can afford it I highly recommend it.
 

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