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What beam scale are you using?

Ohaus 1010 bought used, then I worked it over myself with instructions from forum members posts on this site. I use a RCBS Chargemaster to throw a charge 1/2 g light and then trickle up to weight on the Ohaus.
 
I have an old silver Lyman but don't know where the model number is... What's yall's M5 look like??? Mine has teflon looking v-shaped pads where the knive edges set.. Also a little turn dial on the right side/front to raise and lower a ram which takes pressure off an on the beam.. It must be nice because I use it to second weigh/check my ChargeMaster down to a single kernal.. Any thoughts?? Off the subject but I also have an old straight handled Rock Chucker that seems to deliver... First time shooting on a chrony got me sd of 6.5 and es of 16... Load was 39.9 H4350 Fed 205M in a 6.5Lapua...
 
SHootSTraight22 said:
I have an old silver Lyman but don't know where the model number is... What's yall's M5 look like??? Mine has teflon looking v-shaped pads where the knive edges set.. Also a little turn dial on the right side/front to raise and lower a ram which takes pressure off an on the beam.

I think you may have an old Lyman D-7 scale - The Teflon looking pads are actually very hard Agate, just the same as in the RCBS scales but fixed in position, not floating.

The Lyman M-5 is one of the very best reloading scales - It looks very much like a RCBS 10/10 but without the rotating barrel poise system. It was made when engineers had more say than the accountants.
 
SHootSTraight22 said:
What's yall's M5 look like??? Mine has teflon looking v-shaped pads where the knive edges set.. Also a little turn dial on the right side/front to raise and lower a ram which takes pressure off an on the beam..

I have an old "sure 'nuff" M5 but it doesn't seem to have the "ram" you described. I figured all M5s were identical. Unless I miss what you're referring to.
 
I tried The Hornady/Pacific scales several years back as I thought they would yield a good platform to start with. However, the three that I tested all had the same issue that RCBS 505 scales seem to have, while they can be made quite sensitive, the repeatability is not to be found. Through some testing with the 505 scales, I have been able to determine that the culprit is the middle poise that is folded into a C-shape. It makes contact with the beam in two places and never seems to do it the same way twice. The middle poise on Hornady scales makes contact in two places as well.

Two poise scales do share this ailment. Thus, I was very excited when Hornady came out with their new beam scale. It has two poises, and also features a zero ballast adjustment system that I really like. I of course bought one straight away. Upon inspection, I noticed that beam knives were short in height. This is not good for high sensitivity as we are essentially talking about a shorter lever arm over the pivot point. Also, Hornady incorporated the same old round bottom steel bearings that they have used for decades. These essentially provide a pivot area rather than a pivot point. again, this is not conducive to repeatability.

So, my first choice for tuning comes down to three models: Lyman M5s, D5s and older Redding#2 scales.

Scott Parker
Bakersfield CA
VLD223@yahoo.com
661 364 1199
 
sparker said:
I Through some testing with the 505 scales, I have been able to determine that the culprit is the middle poise that is folded into a C-shape. It makes contact with the beam in two places and never seems to do it the same way twice. The middle poise on Hornady scales makes contact in two places as well.

Scott,

Thanks for solving a head-scratcher. I've always wondered why I had to chase my 5-0-5 to the limit of patience.

Couldn't that C-shaped poise be replaced with a straight, free-swinging poise (similar to the other poise on the 5-0-5) of sufficient mass?

But with my 5-0-5, even if I leave both poises in place and don't touch them, the scale drifts. E.e. If I load ten cases in a row with ostensibly the same charge (not having touched the poises) using consistent technique (trickling up from below) then go back and re-weigh the first case's charge, it might have drifted slightly. That has to be down to the pivots (beam or pan hanger) doesn't it?
 
1066 said:
SHootSTraight22 said:
I have an old silver Lyman but don't know where the model number is... What's yall's M5 look like??? Mine has teflon looking v-shaped pads where the knive edges set.. Also a little turn dial on the right side/front to raise and lower a ram which takes pressure off an on the beam.

I think you may have an old Lyman D-7 scale - The Teflon looking pads are actually very hard Agate, just the same as in the RCBS scales but fixed in position, not floating.

The Lyman M-5 is one of the very best reloading scales - It looks very much like a RCBS 10/10 but without the rotating barrel poise system. It was made when engineers had more say than the accountants.

Where would the model number # be located on my scale... Could someone post picks of this Lyman D-7 so I can compare it to mine please... It's seems to be a good scale, weighing out 1 kernal at a time isn't a problem... It also has very sharp blades on it..
 
SHootSTraight22 said:
It's seems to be a good scale, weighing out 1 kernal at a time isn't a problem... It also has very sharp blades on it..

Most scales with good pivots are sensitive to a single kernel. It's repeatability that's so elusive.
 
SHootSTraight22 said:
1066 said:
SHootSTraight22 said:
I have an old silver Lyman but don't know where the model number is... What's yall's M5 look like??? Mine has teflon looking v-shaped pads where the knive edges set.. Also a little turn dial on the right side/front to raise and lower a ram which takes pressure off an on the beam.

I think you may have an old Lyman D-7 scale - The Teflon looking pads are actually very hard Agate, just the same as in the RCBS scales but fixed in position, not floating.

The Lyman M-5 is one of the very best reloading scales - It looks very much like a RCBS 10/10 but without the rotating barrel poise system. It was made when engineers had more say than the accountants.

Where would the model number # be located on my scale... Could someone post picks of this Lyman D-7 so I can compare it to mine please... It's seems to be a good scale, weighing out 1 kernal at a time isn't a problem... It also has very sharp blades on it..

Here you go - this is a D7

and this is an M5
 
M-61 said:
RCBS (Ohaus) 304. Bought it new in the 70's? (60's). Sometimes I see them for sale used (not made for quite some time).
I used it exclusively until I bought my first electronic scale 2 years ago. Now i use it to check the electronic one since it is unaffected by radio signals , florescent bulbs, cell phones etc.

I also use the 304, but I don't own an electronic scale. I love the 304.

I haven't yet been able to convince myself that electronic scales are not affected by electronic/electromagnetic interference.

I can be persuaded that my concerns are completely unwarranted, but I've never heard anyone address my worries.

Does anyone know of studies addressing this issue?
 
bloc said:
I haven't yet been able to convince myself that electronic scales are not affected by electronic/electromagnetic interference.

I can be persuaded that my concerns are completely unwarranted, but I've never heard anyone address my worries.

Does anyone know of studies addressing this issue?


Do your own study. Get a set of check weights like those sold by RCBS and check your electronic scale at regular intervals.

All sensitive scales are affected by "ambients". Beam scales don't like air movement which is probably more prevalent than cell phone signals or fluorescent light RFI.
 
amlevin said:
Beam scales don't like air movement ...

They sure don't. Turn of the central heat or A/C, don't have any fans blowing, no windows open when it's windy, avoid sudden body movements and be aware of your breathing. I also believe the scale should come up to local ambient temperature, e.g. if you have an incandescent desk lamp above it, let the scale warm up and stabilize after turning on the lamp.
 
I have gone through my fair share of strain gauge scales. Pact, RCBS, Gempro, etc., and I was never pleased with their ability at repeatability or propensity to drift. That was the reason I always resorted back to my old tried and true mid 70's vintage Ohaus 10-10 Beam Scales. I even sent them off to Scott and had them tuned, swearing never to have a set of digital scales darken the entrance to my gun room again.

Now before the usual trolling attack mob goes after me, this was my experience and I am in no way saying that this is the experiance with all owners of strain gauge digital scales. And further, I was able to ward off some of the grimlins that foul up strain gauge scales by adding a Ferrite Filter to the power cord to the scales (following picture).

2cibmgh.jpg


BTW, that is a RadioShack "Ferrite Data-Line Filter", part #273-0105.

The filter was a tremendous help but was not a 100% fix. There was still drift and repeatability issues to a point that I kept going back to my tuned Ohaus beams for confidence in my LD loads.

Then, one day I got a chance to buy an unused, unpacked backup A&D FX-120i set of Magnetic Force Restoration (MFR) scales with the Super Hybrid Sensor for an unbelievable low price. Life changed!

The difference in Strain Gauge and MFR technology's ability to provide repeatability and avoid drift is amazing... To me. I have regained my confidence in digial scales (MFR that is) and have my trusty Tuned Ohaus as a backup.

My suggestion is to invest in MFR technology if you want to go digital and if you need precise repeatability nessessary in most competative MR/LR games. If a 2/10gn swing is ok in the type and level of loading you are doing, then Strain Gauge technology may be fine with the addition of a Ferrite Filter on the power cord. BTW, I don't know if it matters or not in MFR scales but I added a Ferrite Filter to the power cable to my FX-120i also.

But again, if and when all else fails, I always have my vintage Tuned Ohaus 10-10's to save the day. Like an axe to a chainsaw, they never fail to start and never quit running.

Best Regards,
Thomas
 
That requires the buddy system. "I'll buy a $700 A&D scale, if you'll buy a $700 Hawkeye bore scope, and we'll share and share alike. Deal?"
 
brians356 said:
That requires the buddy system. "I'll buy a $700 A&D scale, if you'll buy a $700 Hawkeye bore scope, and we'll share and share alike. Deal?"
If I could find a Hawkeye Borescope at the same ridiculously low price that I got on these scales, I would have a Hawkeye Borescope. Also, if I had not been lucky enough to have landed that ridiculously low price deal on those scales, I still would't have a set.

Regards,
Thomas
 
sparker said:
I tried The Hornady/Pacific scales several years back as I thought they would yield a good platform to start with. However, the three that I tested all had the same issue that RCBS 505 scales seem to have, while they can be made quite sensitive, the repeatability is not to be found. Through some testing with the 505 scales, I have been able to determine that the culprit is the middle poise that is folded into a C-shape. It makes contact with the beam in two places and never seems to do it the same way twice. The middle poise on Hornady scales makes contact in two places as well.

Two poise scales do share this ailment. Thus, I was very excited when Hornady came out with their new beam scale. It has two poises, and also features a zero ballast adjustment system that I really like. I of course bought one straight away. Upon inspection, I noticed that beam knives were short in height. This is not good for high sensitivity as we are essentially talking about a shorter lever arm over the pivot point. Also, Hornady incorporated the same old round bottom steel bearings that they have used for decades. These essentially provide a pivot area rather than a pivot point. again, this is not conducive to repeatability.

So, my first choice for tuning comes down to three models: Lyman M5s, D5s and older Redding#2 scales.

Scott Parker
Bakersfield CA
VLD223@yahoo.com
661 364 1199

Scott, what would be causing my scales to stick at the bottom and haved to be bumped slightly once replacing the pan for measurment?? It's almost like theirs a magnet underneath where the pointer part of the arm rests in the down postition.. I say that because I can't see one place the arm touches to be getting stuck...
 

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