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Wet Moly coating

I just did a test where I went 250 rounds using my Rock Creek barreled Savage 1-8 223 Ackley without cleaning. I finally cleaned it. The ONLY thing that came out was carbon... No copper at all. None.

I use moly bullets. My bullets are coated by me using the wet moly coating process and my bullets are so clean after coating you can eat off of them.

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Also, for all those guys saying they can't get moly out of their barrels. Boretech Eliminator leaves no moly residue that I can see in the borescope after cleaning. So, I have no idea what those guys are talking about.

I checked my 6BR Rock Creek after a 100 round match with a borescope. I completely forgot I shoot moly. There was absolutely no evidence of moly in my barrel after cleaning.

I am starting to think my bullets are so clean... they don't leave any residue in the barrel.

My bullets have no dust, and they do not black your fingers at all.
 
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That's the HUGE difference between the wet and dry methods, IMO. The end product with the wet method is so superior to the dry powder coating, it's not even comparable. Not saying the dry doesn't work, if anyone likes it and prefers it, knock yourself out...but the thin, smooth, etched in coating of the wet method is cleaner to work with, leaves much less residue in the barrel, and provides a much more even coat on the bullet jacket.

Like you, once I buff mine dry, I found they don't leave residue on your fingers when you touch them, it's hard to scrub it off the jacket with steel wool. I'm raising my round levels between cleanings also, over 200 now for most of my small 17's and 20's. And even then it's just a few patches, I don't have enough copper buildup to even worry about on a PD trip.

For colony varmint shoots, I'm a big fan.
 
Actually, I examine what I used to call a good moly job, and say its no wonder there were moly deposits in the barrel. I mean the things were always covered in dust.

My moly coat is superior to any I have ever seen, Just saying.

And it is easier.
 
I've been moly coating using the Neco dry process for a long time but now I want to convert to the wet process. It looks so much better and sounds like its provides a superior coating. Any time I've had to pull my moly coated bullets, you see how fragile the dry coating is. I have the small Dillon tumbler that I hoped to use for wet moly coating.

I'm at a loss though when it comes to what to put he bullets in - I've pretty much always done 100 bullets per batch. The only prob I ever had with the dry method was having some contamination come off of a plastic bucket that I was using to transfer bullets from moly drum to the wax drum, so I'm real hesitant to use plastic in the wet process. Some have recommended 100 count plastic pill bottles? Maybe two of these with 50 bullets each somehow packed in my tumbler? Sorry, I get lost in this part and don't see what others are doing or how to apply it to what I want to do.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Duster,
This is what I use,

http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html

I put 250 118grain .308 in each bucket. Just enough distilled water to cover the bullets and add the moly. I let it run for about a hour. I save the slurry mix for next time, just add to it enough to get the job done.
 
I wet moly also, clean bullets with Denatured alcohol first. Someone on this site talked of using alcohol in place of water in the slurry mix. Anyone do this?
 
I went to the link and read your report. I read 4-5 hours to tumble, and washing moly down the drain.

How is that better than 1 hour to dry tumble, followed by 10 minutes in media?
I keep the excess moly for the next time.
 
Terry said:
I went to the link and read your report. I read 4-5 hours to tumble, and washing moly down the drain.

How is that better than 1 hour to dry tumble, followed by 10 minutes in media?
I keep the excess moly for the next time.

Washing excess slurry down the drain would just be dumb? As for time, I usually go 10 hours in a rotary tumbler, time is dictated more by the amount of moly one throws in.
I can do 12 lbs of bullets at a time which would allow 500 180 hybrids. Not many vibe tumblers gonna do that and live ;)
 
Terry said:
I went to the link and read your report. I read 4-5 hours to tumble, and washing moly down the drain.

How is that better than 1 hour to dry tumble, followed by 10 minutes in media?
I keep the excess moly for the next time.

I have extra 1 lbs containers. I take the full container, and add the lid with the holes drilled in it. I turn the full container over onto another empty container and leave in the sink for a while so that it is completely drained. I then the store the moly water until the next time with a tight lid.

I then put the bullets under the tap and rinse until clear.
Then I dump all the bullets onto a cookie sheet that is cover in several layers of paper towel.
Then I shake the cookie sheet with a cooking skillet type shaking motion until the bullets buff out. Takes about one minute.

....and like a said, I have never seen cleaner.

Even if I use the water again I still have to add fresh moly the next time.
 
"Tumble for four hours.
Take the bottle to the sink and rinse out all the black until the water coming out of the jar is clear"

Just what I read.
 
I like Bn coating much better

http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-accuracy-reloading/bn-boron-coating

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq3iAoDz3jI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DsYhPLSUD8
 
Has anyone used an RCBS Sidewinder rotary tumbler with the wet process? I've used my Sidewinder for the dry process with the NECO stuff.

RCBS says the Sidewinder is good for wet or dry tumbling. All I may need to do is empty the old moly drum of the steel shot, add some degreased bullets, cover with water and dose it with sufficient moly and see what happens.

Just wondering if anyone that used one has actually tried it?
 
With all due respect to Mr Tubb, the first few downside complaints of moly coating he lists, no longer apply with the wet method. It's NOT messy, it DOESN'T come off on your fingers, it's etched into the jacket material, that's the main difference.

I'm running two PD's rifles, one with moly, one with HBN, I will see how the round coats add up and how long they last, and if there is any difference between the two.

The one problem I have with HBN is, it's just coated on the jacket, wet moly is actually etched, by the water process, the same " downside" risk of humidity causing acid to rust the barrel, therefore resulting in a more tenacious " coating" if you will, at least it seems that way to me.

I'm doing both wet moly and HBN, with an open mind and testing as I go, either is superior to the dry moly, IME. YMMV
 
bowfisher said:
With all due respect to Mr Tubb, the first few downside complaints of moly coating he lists, no longer apply with the wet method. It's NOT messy, it DOESN'T come off on your fingers, it's etched into the jacket material, that's the main difference.

Suppose I handed you a moly-coated bullet of some unknown origin, and you found you could not get any moly to rub off on your fingers. Would you say it meets the standard your wet method achieves?
 
bowfisher said:
With all due respect to Mr Tubb, the first few downside complaints of moly coating he lists, no longer apply with the wet method. It's NOT messy, it DOESN'T come off on your fingers, it's etched into the jacket material, that's the main difference.

Thank you. Yes.

The wet process effectively FIXES all of the issues...

Also, I am saying using a borescope I am not seeing moly in barrel after cleaning. I am wondering if the the moly in the barrel people were seeing were actually from the dust left on the bullet. I have no evidence of this, so it is just speculation.... but I will say I am not having any difficulty with cleaning moly using Boretech Eliminator. It does have some kind of soap in it.

I love my process. No new process required at this point. It works, its cheap, and everyone I show my bullets too, are pretty thoroughly impressed.
 
Nothing new under the sun? I understand that this article describes using water in the tumbler for better results. I don't have the issue of PS, so perhaps someone can corroborate?

Precision Shooting Magazine
Vol 57, No 2, Page 54
June, 2009
"The Finally Perfect Moly"
M. L. McPherson
 

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