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Wet Moly coating

I have to say, even just from a photograph, they look anodized. I'm now convinced of the superiority of this wet process.
 
Duster 360,

Thank you for the article, it will give me something to read while my wife is talking to me..... :o

Your current experience was also noted.

Thank you,

Phil.
 
Duster_360 said:
Don't know if all the suppliers get moly from the same place , but I successfully used the NECO moly that I had from their dry moly kit last night.

I went and bought some Dawn and cleaned the big glass bowls I use to pour moly and bullets into. I put the steel shot for the dry process back into the NECO bottles they had come and and washed the moly drum well with Dawn. After everything was dry, I added 100 Berger 105 6mm BTs and water. I put a leveled 1/4 tbsp of moly in the drum and set it up to run 4 hrs. I was disappointed 4 hrs later - I had bullets that were still pink. Thinking I didn't have enough moly, I added another leveled 1/4 tbsp of moly and set it to run another 4 hrs.

By the time bullets were finished again, I'd convinced myself it was not going to work because I was using way too much water. After all, McPherson was running in a near moly 'mud' when he discovered the wet process. I was right - bullets were still pink, no different that the 1st time. I reduced the water until I literally had just enough to cover most of the bullets - I could see tips sticking out of the water - set to run for another 4 hours.

This time - WOW, in all the 1000's on dry moly bullets I've made, Never seen any of them look this good - and this is with no wax, just a rub with a paper towel.
Click to expand...

You are right about the amount of water, don't use too much, just enough to keep everything wet, I only use enough water to half cover the bullets, less than a cupful.
 
Duster_360 said:
Don't know if all the suppliers get moly from the same place , but I successfully used the NECO moly that I had from their dry moly kit last night.

I went and bought some Dawn and cleaned the big glass bowls I use to pour moly and bullets into. I put the steel shot for the dry process back into the NECO bottles they had come and and washed the moly drum well with Dawn. After everything was dry, I added 100 Berger 105 6mm BTs and water. I put a leveled 1/4 tbsp of moly in the drum and set it up to run 4 hrs. I was disappointed 4 hrs later - I had bullets that were still pink. Thinking I didn't have enough moly, I added another leveled 1/4 tbsp of moly and set it to run another 4 hrs.

By the time bullets were finished again, I'd convinced myself it was not going to work because I was using way too much water. After all, McPherson was running in a near moly 'mud' when he discovered the wet process. I was right - bullets were still pink, no different that the 1st time. I reduced the water until I literally had just enough to cover most of the bullets - I could see tips sticking out of the water - set to run for another 4 hours.

This time - WOW, in all the 1000's on dry moly bullets I've made, Never seen any of them look this good - and this is with no wax, just a rub with a paper towel.
Click to expand...

Way to keep at it Duster! That's exactly how mine look. It's such a deep shine, I love the depth of color ! Now that I think about my method , I'm putting just enough water in the jar, ( say 300, 17 cal bullets) to see it in the bullets. In other words, water is below the bullet height, but you can see it if you jostle the jar. I will try the next batch with even less water and see how they turn out.
 
I worked really hard and spent a bunch of time with NECO and my dry coated moly bullets looked as good as theirs. You had to be meticulous about the process and prevent even the slightest trace of contamination from getting involved. When they were successfully coated, then you had to wax them and that was a whole 'nother deal. The secret there was heat - waxing was easy as long as everything was good and hot and you used just a tiny pinch of wax and maybe 30-40 sec tops in the wax drum. I used a hair dryer to preheat the wax drum over and above what the sun was getting them too here in the summer.

The dry coated bullets you show look like they've had too much wax. No doubt though, the wet process produces a different kind of coating.

I'm real interested in seeing what difference the wet moly bullets produces on the range and any differences with throat/barrel wear and cleaning.

The secret to the wet process def appears to be the amount of water used. Less def is better than more in this regard.
 
Why do you use the distilled water vs the tap water, or is it due to your water being the problem or is it something like clorine or floride? Thanks, Paul
 
Well, add me to the list. I've coated my bullets with tungsten-disulfide and No. 7-1/2 steel shot for about 12 years and I fire only coated bullets in all my firearms. After reading through the "wet coating" threads, I decided to try it. I always clean bullets in Iosso Case Cleaner (very strong detergent) before coating and did the same today with 200 6mm Bergers. I put 100 each into Skippy peanut butter jars with just enough water so the tops of the bullets were sticking out, and added about 1/4 tsp. t-d. Into the Lyman vibrator (no tumbler) and two hours later I had "chrome-plated" beauties.

I like the wet process, despite not having running water in my basement loading shack, because of the dust-free process. Plus no need to dry the bullets after cleaning them in preparation for coating.
 
scpaul said:
Why do you use the distilled water vs the tap water, or is it due to your water being the problem or is it something like clorine or floride? Thanks, Paul
Click to expand...

Never heard or read that...all the wet moly I've done has been with water out of the faucet. We have a house water softener so it is filtered and the hardness has been reduced a little, but its far from being distilled water. Mine have turned out fine
 
The referance to distilled/filtered/treated water; whatever it was is toward the front of this string. I have a Lyman Moly Coating Kit with the extra bowls and the ceramic media. I tried to use it twice but it just wasn't worth the mess. So now I've got to find smaller bottles than the 1lb. powder bottles to fit in the smaller Lyman polisher bowls and try it. Makes me feel better, don't remember exactly how much it cost but I think the whole set-up was about $50-$60 about 6 years ago. Thank you very much, Paul ;D
 
SCpaul,

That was from my post on page 1 of this thread. I live in the lowcountry of SC and have well water that is hard. I choose distilled water because of the quality and because I wanted to save the slurry after each time. The gallon of water was just a few dollars and worth the peace of mind for me.

Willytp
 
I've been using straight NECO Moly and tap water, what came with the original moly coasting kit I bought in '96.

I have just received a supply of Lyman Super Moly powder and will be using that when my NECO supply runs out.

Getting awesome looking moly coated bullets with the wet process.
 
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