Turn Your FX-120i into a Prometheus

[Mark Johnson]

QUOTE="Mark Johnson, post: 36797651, member: 1298084"]This looks like a good idea. What are you using for the led light? Thanks

A small section of this LED Light Kit. Just cut about 18" off the roll, peeled the backing off and stuck it to the inside top. Passed the power cable through a hole in the back.

I used a second kit plus the leftover from this to make a hanging 5' long overhead fixture to light the rest of the bench.

The remotes are all identical and miscellaneous parts are available if you want to connect smaller cut sections together to form one continuous strip in the shape you need. Or just fold and bend the strips as I did [/QUOTE]


Thanks a lot. I ordered a cube and the leds, great idea.

 

[flatlander]

Received my auto trickler from Adam today - Canada Post's expected delivery date wasn't until next Wed, July 27, so it was a pleasant surprise to get it sooner. I got it unpacked & set up in about 15 min, though I screwed-up while configuring my FX-120i, and had to go back through the process in order to get it to run. No fault of Adam's - it was simply a mistake I made.

I tried applying paraffin to the trickler body where the tube runs, but didn't have much success - perhaps warming the aluminum trickler up with a heat gun would allow one to apply shavings of the wax and get it to melt in place? Instead, I got some HBN and applied it, though I don't know if I managed to get enough of it into the holes with the tube in place to do the job. I mention this because after re-configuring the FX-120i and getting it to dispense powder, the vibration of it running induced it to dance around a bit and move until I had to reach over to move it back so the tube would be over the pan. I'm thinking some of the vibration could be attenuated with better lube of the trickling tube. Perhaps none of this would matter if I hadn't placed the unit on the left side of the scale, which makes the power cord for the unit tend to make the trickler move away from the pan. Whatever - a single small piece of 3M Magic tape on the unit's base stopped all the dancing & moving about. I may glue a couple of strips of trim in place to hold the unit in place while it's running, or - if better lubrication dampens the vibration, it may not be necessary to do anything.

At any rate, I started out by loading some 223 LR ammo with N550. By having a light charge in another powder pan, I could set the empty pan on the pan base on the scale's platen, watching the scale's display and dumping the light charge in the pan just as soon as the scale settled and the trickler began to run. By doing this, the trickler ran only a few seconds to bring the charge up to final weight. It took far less time to charge 50 cases than it typically would by hand trickling.

Since things worked relatively smoothly on my first trial run, I'm sure that with practice & more experience, I'll streamline things and make it possible to run even more quickly & efficiently. Very pleased with the purchase of this gizmo! Kudos to Adam's work in bringing it to market at an affordable price.

 

[ericbc7]

I recieved mine today also. Very well packaged and everything was in good condition. Thanks Adam!

 

[Mark Johnson]

I got my trickler today too. Just as happy as everyone else is. I used the straw mod concept and put a piece of electrical tape around the trickler tube opening inside the hopper, closing the hole by about 50%. Drastically reduced overthrows. I'm using 2 rcbs pan/funnel combos cut to matched weight and a chargemaster to throw close, then let the trickler finish. This system will for sure work faster than I can. Thanks a lot everybody.

 

[adamjmac]

I got my trickler today too. Just as happy as everyone else is. I used the straw mod concept and put a piece of electrical tape around the trickler tube opening inside the hopper, closing the hole by about 50%. Drastically reduced overthrows. I'm using 2 rcbs pan/funnel combos cut to matched weight and a chargemaster to throw close, then let the trickler finish. This system will for sure work faster than I can. Thanks a lot everybody.

Interesting. Try tilting the trickler backwards a little, it will reduce flow and maybe you won't need those mods. A couple sheets of paper to shim the front of the base.

 

[jlow]

Received my auto trickler from Adam today - Canada Post's expected delivery date wasn't until next Wed, July 27, so it was a pleasant surprise to get it sooner. I got it unpacked & set up in about 15 min, though I screwed-up while configuring my FX-120i, and had to go back through the process in order to get it to run. No fault of Adam's - it was simply a mistake I made.

I tried applying paraffin to the trickler body where the tube runs, but didn't have much success - perhaps warming the aluminum trickler up with a heat gun would allow one to apply shavings of the wax and get it to melt in place? Instead, I got some HBN and applied it, though I don't know if I managed to get enough of it into the holes with the tube in place to do the job. I mention this because after re-configuring the FX-120i and getting it to dispense powder, the vibration of it running induced it to dance around a bit and move until I had to reach over to move it back so the tube would be over the pan. I'm thinking some of the vibration could be attenuated with better lube of the trickling tube. Perhaps none of this would matter if I hadn't placed the unit on the left side of the scale, which makes the power cord for the unit tend to make the trickler move away from the pan. Whatever - a single small piece of 3M Magic tape on the unit's base stopped all the dancing & moving about. I may glue a couple of strips of trim in place to hold the unit in place while it's running, or - if better lubrication dampens the vibration, it may not be necessary to do anything.

At any rate, I started out by loading some 223 LR ammo with N550. By having a light charge in another powder pan, I could set the empty pan on the pan base on the scale's platen, watching the scale's display and dumping the light charge in the pan just as soon as the scale settled and the trickler began to run. By doing this, the trickler ran only a few seconds to bring the charge up to final weight. It took far less time to charge 50 cases than it typically would by hand trickling.

Since things worked relatively smoothing on my first trial run, I'm sure that with practice & more experience, I'll streamline things and make it possible to run even more quickly & efficiently. Very pleased with the purchase of this gizmo! Kudos to Adam's work in bringing it to market at an affordable price.

What I have found is to get a smoother run, a couple of things helps. First, it’s worth polishing both the drop tube and the trickler body. I did that by chucking the drop tube on my drill press and polish it with first “No7 Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound”, and then “No7 White Polishing Compound”. The combination of the two will give a mirror finish. I then polish the body of the trickler with some cotton wrapped around an old bore brush and the two polish named above. You can get both of these polish at Ace Hardware.

Once you get both surface smooth, you can rub wax directly on the drop tube where it goes through the trickler body and you are done.

 

[Kiba]

My trickler arrived yesterday... haven't used it yet since I'm still waiting for the FX-120i to arrive, but nice job Adam! The board interconnections and 3D printed scale adapter insert are very well done as is the 3D printed tumbler & motor stand.

Regarding friction on the trickler shaft... I'm planning to stick the tumbler body on the mill, open the holes a bit, and install 0.3125" x 0.500" green seal bearings from Boca Bearing. I've used the green seal bearings quite a bit for offroad RC applications. They have tight fitting rubber seals and are sealed for the life of the bearing so powder can't get in, grease won't weep out to contaminate the powder, and they will easily solve the friction issue. A couple of shaft spacers, a spring wave washer, and a shaft collar for reassembly will eliminate any remaining slop.

 

[spclark]

Mine's been delivered as of today; I'm in Racine WI though 'till this time tomorrow.

STILL waiting for news of my 120i, should have shipped 7/19.

Last I heard factory's waiting on a part.

Kiba, this the bearing you spotted?

 

[Cujo]

Regarding friction on the trickler shaft... I'm planning to stick the tumbler body on the mill, open the holes a bit, and install 0.3125" x 0.500" green seal bearings from Boca Bearing. I've used the green seal bearings quite a bit for offroad RC applications. They have tight fitting rubber seals and are sealed for the life of the bearing so powder can't get in, grease won't weep out to contaminate the powder, and they will easily solve the friction issue. A couple of shaft spacers, a spring wave washer, and a shaft collar for reassembly will eliminate any remaining slop.

Please post pics when you're done! That sounds good.

 

[Mark Johnson]

I had only casually observed the Prometheus prior to getting this setup. I've watched all the videos I can find on the Prometheus and am wondering what the argument would be in that setup over this with the fx-120i? I've got mine setup with a modded chargemaster and 2 pans, so it is definitely dispensing in the 12-15 second range. I'm just looking to compare the two side by side from a powder measure standpoint, if I understand right they are both accurate within .02gn? If you compare cost, I think I'm all in around $1k, and the fact I have a really accurate scale to measure other things, it obviously contributes to the debate, but I wondered if there was still more accuracy to be had.

 

[jlow]

I had only casually observed the Prometheus prior to getting this setup. I've watched all the videos I can find on the Prometheus and am wondering what the argument would be in that setup over this with the fx-120i? I've got mine setup with a modded chargemaster and 2 pans, so it is definitely dispensing in the 12-15 second range. I'm just looking to compare the two side by side from a powder measure standpoint, if I understand right they are both accurate within .02gn? If you compare cost, I think I'm all in around $1k, and the fact I have a really accurate scale to measure other things, it obviously contributes to the debate, but I wondered if there was still more accuracy to be had.

I personally don’t think you can be any more precise and accurate since for example, one kernel of Varget weights in around 0.02 grains and so if your measuring accuracy is 0.02 grain, the only way you can get more precise/accurate is if you start slicing and dicing the kernels. Neither of the machines will do that for you. Of course, apart from the huge cost differential, with one you own, the other you only lease…. Also don't forget the difference in wait time...

 

[Kiba]

Kiba, this the bearing you spotted?

Yep, that's the one. Simple flat endmill to bore out the trickler housing and size it for either a light press fit or go for a minimal clearance slip fit then hold them in with retaining compound loctite (609 or 648.)

You will want to spin the bearings for a few minutes at higher RPM to help force any excess lube out and wipe it off prior to installation in the trickler. I usually chuck up a cone in the lathe, run it at 1600rpm or so, and hold the bearings by the outer race against the cone for 2-3 minutes to spin when which slings out any excess lube. You can do the same with a hand drill or drill press.

Other parts I purchased were a few 5/16 shaft shims, a 5/16 spring "wave" washer, and a 5/16 shaft collar. Final product should be very low friction with minimal slop. I'll post pics when it is together, should have the bearings later this week.

The RCBS trickler works fine as a manual trickler but could use a few improvements when motor driven. The bearings should take care of that. Might have to play with a "straw mod" like I did with my Chargemaster but I won't know until the FX-120i arrives.

 

[zipollini]

I had only casually observed the Prometheus prior to getting this setup. I've watched all the videos I can find on the Prometheus and am wondering what the argument would be in that setup over this with the fx-120i? I've got mine setup with a modded chargemaster and 2 pans, so it is definitely dispensing in the 12-15 second range. I'm just looking to compare the two side by side from a powder measure standpoint, if I understand right they are both accurate within .02gn? If you compare cost, I think I'm all in around $1k, and the fact I have a really accurate scale to measure other things, it obviously contributes to the debate, but I wondered if there was still more accuracy to be had.

You can mount the Promethius over your progressive reloading press and drop the charge directly into the case. Can't do that with the Fx 120/auto trickler setup.

 

[zipollini]

Here is something pretty interesting.

 

[spclark]

Here is something pretty interesting.

Intersting, yes but reloading's supposed to be about saving money as much as achieving repeatable accuracy. That thing likely costs more than my entire shooting hobby's investment to date... just sayin'.

 

[jlow]

Here is something pretty interesting.

I’ve done the type of weighing in that video for a living and a few things is going to prevent that from being a big success.

One thing is that special dispenser that you need for each compound is going to be expensive, especially when you are dealing with tens of thousands of compounds (if not millions...) like we dealt with. Second, a lot of compound is going to get wasted in that big dispenser because of the dead space in it.

A person good at dealing with small amounts i.e. 1 mg or less is going to waste a lot less compound that that gadget and no, you don’t need to use a 50mL volumetric, we regularly use 5 and 10 mL volumetrics and we can get beautiful reproducible lab data…

Lastly, that system is totally useless for a reloader as that dispenser cannot dispense the powder that we use i.e. ball or extruded powder.

 

[flatlander]

I loaded another 50rds of 6XC yesterday, using the auto trickler with IMR4451. Results were pretty much the same as with N550 in the 223 the day before - excellent. I did work at introducing more HBN in the trickler's tube/body bearing surfaces before running those 50 charges, and after removing the drive belt so that I could feel any friction while rotating the tube by hand, feel that - at least for now - the tube is spinning pretty freely. I think that periodic application of HBN should be adequate to keep the trickler running smoothly. However, it's very tempting to purchase a couple of the ball bearings that Kiba is using, and make a more permanent fix. I have a mill with Newell DRO, and wouldn't have a problem installing the bearings. It's just a matter of making the decision on whether it's necessary or not.

 

[Mark Johnson]

You can mount the Promethius over your progressive reloading press and drop the charge directly into the case. Can't do that with the Fx 120/auto trickler setup.

That is true, I had been thinking about that actually. I figure it is only a matter of time before someone rigs up a little rube goldberg style funnel to automatically fill a progressive or case. Should be doable with the remaining $2k budget.

 

[missed]

That is true, I had been thinking about that actually. I figure it is only a matter of time before someone rigs up a little rube goldberg style funnel to automatically fill a progressive or case. Should be doable with the remaining $2k budget.

its been in the works for a while now....too many irons in the fire right now

 

[J-rod]

I think I am going to try two of these in the housing versus bearings (well at least on the O-ring side anyways)....with as little load as there is, these should work fine and I won't have to take the thing to work to have machined, I may have the right reamer. A drill bit may even work lol. I will report back if it works.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6377k5/=13hk4fu