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True the action ??

Hi ya'll..kind of new to the board,,love it so far..
I have a custom 308 built on a rem. 700 action. The action was glass bedded and has a heavy Douglas S/S bl. built to shoot silhouettes for me back in the mid 80's..The rifle will shoot well under 1/2moa.
I want to have a switch bl. gun made with the new cal. being 6BR. My gun smith priced it with him truing the action.
My question is , would this be necessary seeing how well it shoots already.. The gun would be used to shoot P Dogs ONLY..

Thanks for any advice.....
 
If you want a switch barrel you need to tru the face of the action so it is absolutely perpedicular to the threads. While you are at it you may as well true the bolt face and lap the lugs - not that much more work.
 
"Truing" or "Blueprinting" a receiver has several different definitions depending on who you ask but I'll give you my take on it.

After owning and working on numerous Remington 700's I can say this with 100% certainty, I have never seen a Remington 700 receiver that was completely square, concentric or perpendicular with any surface within. The bolt lugs seem to be a different story though and are usually perpendicular with the bolt body.

I manufactured a receiver truing collar for the purpose of truing the receivers while being held in a rigid setup. The receivers are indicated in this fixture by the means of a Brown & Sharp .0001" Indicator reading on a .500" hardened, ground mandrel that’s held in the bolt raceway by tight fitting bushings. I have several different bushing sizes that allow me to find the perfect fit between bushing and bolt raceway. Often, the difference between the front and rear receiver ring ID is as much as .002" making it impossible to use one mandrel for all receivers.

Here is my method;
http://www.louisianaprecisionrifles.com/blueprinting.aspx

Once dialed in to .0002" or less TIR measurements can be taken at the receiver face and lug abutments to determine just how much TIR there is in the receiver face and how much perpendicular difference there is between each lug abutment face. I've seen lug abutment differences as much as .002" from one another and TIR of .004" on the receiver faces.

I stopped trying to measure receiver threads because to be quite frank, I didn’t have a very good method of doing so. I decide to just make a clean up pass on them with a full profile threading insert and the single point method. I wasn’t shocked to find out that the vast majority of receiver threads failed to be concentric but some were also tapered or offset. Taps and or hand tools will not address this issue and only debur and or clean out the thread root.

Factory recoil lugs are another issue and should be addressed be either surface grinding them or replacing with an after market version. I prefer a hardened, ground custom recoil lug. To answer your question, yes receivers should be trued in a manner as I described above along with the bolt lugs and bolt face. When receiver truing is performed correctly, barrels will align straighter in the receiver and tighter barrel joint threads can be cut, shoulders will lock up tighter, chambered rounds will have less negative influence when the bolt is closed and the bullets will start straighter in the throat reducing bullet deformation when fired resulting in tighter groups and more X’s or a higher dog count a the end of the day. ;)
 
If it's shooting 1/2 MOA I for one wouldn't bother doing it. Seeing it was a custom build I imagine it may have been done already...
You may be able to take a close look at the bolt and tell if it's been done or not..
 
Two reasons I wouldn't do it. First is that its probably OK now if its shooting half minute. Second is the the old barrel will have to be re-fitted adding additional cost.
 
Besides all of that work, time and expense...you'll not see many...if any mod 700 actions at benchrest matches. That ought to tell you something! That doesn't mean that very accurate rifles can't be built on 700 actions, I have a couple to prove it...but I am now a firm believer that if you want the best, go ahead and get it with a BAT, Stiller, Hall etc and put the real work into the barrel and expertise of chambering properly by a good gunsmith, and then with a proper bedding job into some good wood or glass...and last but not least, you'll shoot no better than you can see, and that scope ain't made in China!
Mark
 
Gunsmoke---
If the action was blueprinted, then the bolt probably was also done, or at least it should have been, and if it was you can see from the tool marks where it has been cut at the rear of the lugs, along with the circumference of the bolt nose... usually they have touched on the front of the lugs also..and the leading edge of the nose... Pretty easy to tell is any of those areas have been machined after it left the factory...
 
It's still pretty easy if you've ever seen a factory bolt !!!!!!!!
I know you have Doc.
I jewel a lot of bolts, put Sako extractor's in them, opened them to a magnum bolt face, but never in 40 + years have I ever been asked to reblue a bolt, and
I have reblued a ton of guns over the years, but never one single solitary bolt..
You could still tell from the tooling marks even if it had been reblued..
Merry Christmas Doc........
 

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