Travel Advice, Montana or Wyoming, Yellowstone area
- Thread starter cheek9075
- Start date
TheOtherZilla
Pull my finger
If you are reallt feeling lucky there are cabins for rent at Old Faithful, as well as a few amenities.
I live "over the hill" in Butte - but I am originally from NH (don't let that out...). Something to keep in mind is that distances don't matter here.
When my Dad visited, we stayed in Ennis and fished every night. Rented two full cabins for 1\2 of what a single queen in West Yellowstone went for. He was worried about a 100 mile drive to the west gate - "Yeah, Dad, that's a 90 minute trip, with breakfast, no traffic, and a beautiful drive. Don't worry."
June, July, August it is light out at 0600 all the way to 2200. Plenty of daylight.
The hardest part of Yellowstone is getting out. The roads jam up around 1800\1900. I have enjoyed it best when I arrive early and more importantly leave early.
When my Dad visited, we stayed in Ennis and fished every night. Rented two full cabins for 1\2 of what a single queen in West Yellowstone went for. He was worried about a 100 mile drive to the west gate - "Yeah, Dad, that's a 90 minute trip, with breakfast, no traffic, and a beautiful drive. Don't worry."
June, July, August it is light out at 0600 all the way to 2200. Plenty of daylight.
The hardest part of Yellowstone is getting out. The roads jam up around 1800\1900. I have enjoyed it best when I arrive early and more importantly leave early.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Look at:
Cody: Nice town, great people.
Big Sky, Montana. We used to have a condo there. Skiing in winter, trout fishing in summer. It was quiet and beautiful but we sold it 25 years ago. Not sure what it’s like, now. The park was an easy drive. We did the snow mobile rental thing one year. Lots of fun!
My number 2 choice:
Gros Vente Dude Ranch, outside Jackson Hole.
It’s about 1/2 hour north of the Hole. Quiet, secluded, but easy driving distance to the Park. Surrounded by beauty and views of the mountains, it’s an oasis from the hubbub. They offer trail rides, great rustic cabins or modern houses and a main lodge with a good chef. They also have a private mile of river for trout fishing.
We last went there about 5 years ago. We took a day and went up to the Park. I’d first been to the Park in the 60’s, then the 80’s and 90’s. It’s changed. Our last visit was a big disappointment. The traffic was horrendous. When we finally got to our destination, the crowds were huge. Throw in a few busloads of Japanese or Chinese tourists and it really gets miserable. Pushiest people I’ve ever seen!
We couldn’t get to half of our destinations because of the traffic. We sat on one little stretch of road for an hour because a Buffalo was close to the road and everyone stopped for pics!
Truthfully, if you want to “see the Park” watch the videos! Going there is frustrating!
My #1 Western Experience:
Rainbow Trout Ranch in Colorado.
Nestled in a gorgeous valley. Over 100 horses to ride on beautiful trails.
A mile of private trout river.
Nice rustic cabins set on a Mountain side overlooking the valley.
A beautiful main lodge, where family style meals are seved. The “help” eats with you. They’re hand picked kids from all over the states and beyond. The nicest, clean cut kids you’d ever want to meet. They’ll bend over backwards to help you have a great time.
They offer special activities for little kids and teens.
There are nightly sing alongs, story telling, square dancing and more. I would describe it as “maybe a little hokey” but all good natured fun! Like going back to the ‘50s!
The last time we went, my wife and I stayed three weeks and didn’t want to leave!
It’s one of the best family vacations I’ve ever been on!
Cody: Nice town, great people.
Big Sky, Montana. We used to have a condo there. Skiing in winter, trout fishing in summer. It was quiet and beautiful but we sold it 25 years ago. Not sure what it’s like, now. The park was an easy drive. We did the snow mobile rental thing one year. Lots of fun!
My number 2 choice:
Gros Vente Dude Ranch, outside Jackson Hole.
It’s about 1/2 hour north of the Hole. Quiet, secluded, but easy driving distance to the Park. Surrounded by beauty and views of the mountains, it’s an oasis from the hubbub. They offer trail rides, great rustic cabins or modern houses and a main lodge with a good chef. They also have a private mile of river for trout fishing.
We last went there about 5 years ago. We took a day and went up to the Park. I’d first been to the Park in the 60’s, then the 80’s and 90’s. It’s changed. Our last visit was a big disappointment. The traffic was horrendous. When we finally got to our destination, the crowds were huge. Throw in a few busloads of Japanese or Chinese tourists and it really gets miserable. Pushiest people I’ve ever seen!
We couldn’t get to half of our destinations because of the traffic. We sat on one little stretch of road for an hour because a Buffalo was close to the road and everyone stopped for pics!
Truthfully, if you want to “see the Park” watch the videos! Going there is frustrating!
My #1 Western Experience:
Rainbow Trout Ranch in Colorado.
Nestled in a gorgeous valley. Over 100 horses to ride on beautiful trails.
A mile of private trout river.
Nice rustic cabins set on a Mountain side overlooking the valley.
A beautiful main lodge, where family style meals are seved. The “help” eats with you. They’re hand picked kids from all over the states and beyond. The nicest, clean cut kids you’d ever want to meet. They’ll bend over backwards to help you have a great time.
They offer special activities for little kids and teens.
There are nightly sing alongs, story telling, square dancing and more. I would describe it as “maybe a little hokey” but all good natured fun! Like going back to the ‘50s!
The last time we went, my wife and I stayed three weeks and didn’t want to leave!
It’s one of the best family vacations I’ve ever been on!
I have know idea
This is what I am looking for! Looks like we are late to the game this year. Looking at making a trip to Montana next year maybe to Big Sky MT. Blue Green has a resort there and we can stay for discounted rates but if we can't get reservation I will look at this! Thank you!
We have been looking at Glacier National Park, Grad Tetons, and Yellow Stone. I know we cant do it all in 1 trip but I think the family would love a place like you have here!
We may try Aspen this summer, looks like I can get reservations there. I am going to do my research and see what we can get into in that area for this year and plan for next. I have heard that Yellow Stone can be a nightmare during parts of the year. I also read/saw something that said the park was only open about 3 months a year???
This is what I am looking for! Looks like we are late to the game this year. Looking at making a trip to Montana next year maybe to Big Sky MT. Blue Green has a resort there and we can stay for discounted rates but if we can't get reservation I will look at this! Thank you!
We have been looking at Glacier National Park, Grad Tetons, and Yellow Stone. I know we cant do it all in 1 trip but I think the family would love a place like you have here!
We may try Aspen this summer, looks like I can get reservations there. I am going to do my research and see what we can get into in that area for this year and plan for next. I have heard that Yellow Stone can be a nightmare during parts of the year. I also read/saw something that said the park was only open about 3 months a year???
snert
Silver $$ Contributor
In 2014 on June 15 I bought a new van. On the 17 I bought a pop up camper. On the 21st I left with four kids and wife for "west". No plan exactly, but four weeks free and no idea where we were going. Never had a better time in my life. We stopped in Rapid City, saw Badlands, listened to hours of Tolkeins trilogy on the radio, and we went to Yellowstone.
So, first thing you have to know is Yellowstone is a state, not a park...for us easterners. It has multiple entrances, but not like Disney. They are in different states, from what I can tell. It is 50 miles from Cody to the ENTRANCE of Yellowstone. We set aside a day to "see the park". Ya, right! We had a great time as we drove, stopped, looked, drove stopped looked. We went to Old faithful. We passed by the stinking springs...a smart move...and we saw bison, elk, and idiot "furrenors" who hopped out and ran toward the bison to take a picture. I was SOOOO ready for a viral video as bison makes chinese food, but alas, the bison just looked at them like we did...hey dummy, you are not too bright eh? But we only drove the southern loop. MY GOSH its HUGE!
So, we loved Cody. "Camped" in downtown. Went to museum, and loved the rodeo and the dinner show next door. Son fished (guided) the Yellowstone for trout and caught several. was not prepared for the cold water...ice went out two weeks before our July arrival. We didn't know that everything there is price PLUS TIP. plan ahead. I rode a horse. Hilarious. Actually, horse drove me. I was the dumb partner in the arrangement. Had a blast.
Someone said take your time. YES YES YES. Three weeks was not nearly enough and time flew and now its 2021, my kids are all out, married or in college. We never got back. Ironically, that trip changed our lives.
My daughter went to OKWU where she met her husband, a guy who was at the same free concert we attended in Rapid City that year. In fact we drove within 100 yards of his house passing thru Buffalo WY. ( a great place to spend a day BTW). She met him three years later!
My son went to CO in 2017 and has not returned. He lives in Canon City and loves the west.
Josh B mentions this place above in his post. Sure looks great.. I would go there in a minute on my second trip.
On my first trip, should I do it again, I would tell my self to pick a place, go and stay...like Cody or Cody then on up north and see the Glacier National Park.
TIME is the key. Get as much as you can and don't hurry. check out a place and really see it.
Don't be like us...or worse...the video toting numbnits that kept trying to get closer to the bison!
I don't know what covid is doing, but I would head out and have a blast. Time is a wasting.
I have always wanted to go out west! Now family is getting older, oldest son is now 16 and time flown by. In the past we probably could not afford the trip, but times have changed a little for us and now we have some extra we can spend freely. I check out the dude ranch Joshb mentioned and looks like they have a opening in July! I like the looks of the place and looks like something we are interested in. Yellowstone doesn't interested me that much but would make the wife happy, happy wife=happy life! Glacier is a must from what I have seen. Maybe we can make a trip this year and also next year!
Hard to go wrong with Cody. My son and his family lived there for three years and we loved it because there was so much to see along with the NPs. They moved three years ago and we still go back to visit. Great place for family fun. I rent a house there for a week during hunting season, and the women and kids never get bored while we are out.
I may take you up the offer to map out a plan! May need some advise on hunting also. Thanks!!!
And bless Ulysses S. Grant too, since he was the president that made Yellowstone our first national park. TR didn't occupy the White House until 29 years after Yellowstone was designated a park.
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Cheek if you have an interest in hunting I think the deadline for application ends this month. I have hunted antelope twice within 20 minutes of Cody with good success. We now hunt down around Ten Sleep. Between the four of us we have got 6 of them speed goats over 12 days of hunting. Be prepared to shoot 250 yds + .
We would always do Jackson Hole going into the park.
From coming from Pa. the trip really started in St. Anthony
Idaho. Four days of climbing them dunes with the atv's and
hitching an occasional ride on a sand rail. Hit the famous
greasy spoon for breakfast and then head to Jackson Hole.
After our fill of the park we would head out the east Montana
gate, then up into Canada for a little fishin' and general site
seeing. Staying in Canada, it's straight over and down to
Buffalo to end the trip at the falls and a much needed pig out
at the Anchor Bar for wings and Molsen XXX if your inclined.
Back to Erie and work to pay off that dreaded CC gas bill that
will be coming due.
From coming from Pa. the trip really started in St. Anthony
Idaho. Four days of climbing them dunes with the atv's and
hitching an occasional ride on a sand rail. Hit the famous
greasy spoon for breakfast and then head to Jackson Hole.
After our fill of the park we would head out the east Montana
gate, then up into Canada for a little fishin' and general site
seeing. Staying in Canada, it's straight over and down to
Buffalo to end the trip at the falls and a much needed pig out
at the Anchor Bar for wings and Molsen XXX if your inclined.
Back to Erie and work to pay off that dreaded CC gas bill that
will be coming due.
If it’s for this year, you might be late for reservations near the parks or even Cody. However, I agree with most that Cody is a great place. The Buffalo Bill Museum and fire arms museums are must sees. On the Eastern slope of the Big Horns but much farther from the parks is Buffalo, WY. The drive across the Big Horns is spectacular. You may even get someone to show you Hole in the Wall and the site of the Johnson County war. Trudy Malody Schoonover at Big Horn Hotel (Lodge?) is from a long time, WY ranch family and a great hostess. Not fancy but reasonable prices.
snert
Silver $$ Contributor
Old Tanker is right...that drive is amazing. I will never forget coming down into...somewhere....out of the mountains near Ten sleep I think, stopped at a gas station. BIG 4x4 Ford parked in the lot. As I went in a little gal about 14 came prancing out in her hat and boots, scaled that big OLD truck, yanked open the drivers door to reveal a 4 speed, fired it up and drove off like she had a million miles under her belt.
And if the Man-child wimpy wussy latte drinking unemployed couch wallowing gamers in the East had seen THAT they would have cried behind momma.
I was grinning from ear to ear as my 12 year old daughters squeeled in delight.
And if the Man-child wimpy wussy latte drinking unemployed couch wallowing gamers in the East had seen THAT they would have cried behind momma.
I was grinning from ear to ear as my 12 year old daughters squeeled in delight.
The bighorns are beautiful. I hunted by Ten Sleep for many years. About 12 years ago we took a 2 week summer trip. We arrived in Buffalo on a Sunday with plans to spend 4 days camping in Bighorn mountains. It was snowing hard up above, and found the grocery store wasn’t open on sundays. So we got a room for the night in town. Check out the Oxidental Hotel in Buffalo! Stocked up on food the next morning and spent the following 3 nights camping. We got light snow every day, in June! Then packed camp and headed to Cody. We spent the night at the Irma Hotel built by Buffalo Bill and named after his daughter. Checked out the town and headed in Yellowstone camping a few days. Very crowded everywhere in the park. We then headed up to Glacier camping. Glacier blew Yellowstone away! While at Glacier, we noticed the Amtrak train running around south border of park. After returning home In southern Wi, we looked into the train. Amtrak runs daily from Chicago to Seattle. So we started planning a return trip to Glacier without all the driving. The following summer we packed camping gear into military duffle bags as checked baggage. After a 25 hour train ride from Wi to East Glacier. We had a rental car reserved there, and spent 9 days camping at Glacier. It’s well worth the trip!
lawman29
Gold $$ Contributor
GNP - Not in 2021. MT DOT has road construction scheduled for Highway 2 near the west entrance and Highway 89 near the east side. In addition, GNP has projects scheduled on the Going-to-the-Sun road and also into Many Glacier. This year for the first time GNP is requiring a on-line Entry Ticket Reservation ($2 bucks) ahead of time to even drive through the Park on the Going-to-the-Sun road...
YNP and Grand Teton have no travel restrictions and can handle the traffic, but bear and buffalo jams are inevitable (as tourists you'll be an active participant
). With the new CDC guidelines federal facilities are re-opening visitor centers etc.Let's pretend for the moment you decide to do YNP/GTNP. When you leave home head west to Sioux Falls and get on I-90 and head west. I'd recommend a stop at Mount Rushmore (If you're staying the night I highly recommend going to the lighting of the sculpture, the NPS will have the timing of the ceremony). Avoid being in the Black Hills during Sturgis... After Mt. Rushmore continue west on I-90, you can do a short side trip to Devil's Tower NM - you can shoot the pet prairie dogs with your camera
.As you continue west you'll have a decision to make; go over the Big Horns to Cody (you can go over at Buffalo via US 16 or just north of Sheridan via US 14) or do you continue on I-90 into Montana to the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument - what I'd recommend. Big Horn mountains are just another mountain, the Battlefield provides a more thought provoking experience as viewed from two different perspectives - a teaching moment. After the battlefield spent the night in either Billings or Red Lodge Montana because...
You're going to take the scenic route to Cody. You'll go to Red Lodge and take the "Beartooth All American Road" over the Beartooth Mountains (US 212)[Charles Kuralt called it "the most beautiful drive in America", I concur]. When you get to Highway 296 (Chief Joseph Highway) turn left, do not continue straight towards YNP/Cooke City. Continue on the Chief Joe and when you get to Dead Indian Pass pull out and read the interpretive signs. This is part of the 1,500 mile route that Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce tribe took trying to out run the cavalry to Canada. His famous quote, I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever.
While in Cody the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, maybe the rodeo and on to YNP/GTNP.
YNP things not to miss: If you come in the east entrance via Cody: Yellowstone Lake, Fishing Bridge, after fishing bridge up through the Hayden Valley to Upper/Lower Falls of Yellowstone River & Artist Point. From there you can take the loop back around towards old Faithful and through several geyser basins that have boardwalks to get out and explore. After Old Faithful you can head out the south entrance to Grand Teton NP and Jackson hole.
So when you're done with YNP/GTNP how to head back. No brainer we're talking Lewis & Clark (mandatory reading before the trip; Undaunted Courage by Stephen Ambrose. So where ever you are just head to Threeforks Montana. What an educational, teaching, reflective couple of days this will be. Journey back to 1804, paddling, sailing and dragging a couple boats up the Missouri River trying to get to the Pacific Ocean. At Threeforks is where the Gallatin, Jefferson and Madison Rivers come together to being what we call the Missouri River, named so by Lewis & Clark... When they came to the junction on the way upstream they had to decide which fork to take, as Yogi Berra says when you come to a fork in the road take it... On the way back Lewis & Clark get to Threeforks and decide to split up, Clark says you know I think if I head east over these mountains I'll run into that Yellow River that joins the Missouri, I'll float down it and meet you there at the confluence....
After Threeforks go to Great Falls. There is a fantastic interpretive center of the expedition.
Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest - Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest - Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
www.fs.usda.gov
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All you need to know here.GNP - Not in 2021. MT DOT has road construction scheduled for Highway 2 near the west entrance and Highway 89 near the east side. In addition, GNP has projects scheduled on the Going-to-the-Sun road and also into Many Glacier. This year for the first time GNP is requiring a on-line Entry Ticket Reservation ($2 bucks) ahead of time to even drive through the Park on the Going-to-the-Sun road...
YNP and Grand Teton have no travel restrictions and can handle the traffic, but bear and buffalo jams are inevitable (as tourists you'll be an active participant
Let's pretend for the moment you decide to do YNP/GTNP. When you leave home head west to Sioux Falls and get on I-90 and head west. I'd recommend a stop at Mount Rushmore (If you're staying the night I highly recommend going to the lighting of the sculpture, the NPS will have the timing of the ceremony). Avoid being in the Black Hills during Sturgis... After Mt. Rushmore continue west on I-90, you can do a short side trip to Devil's Tower NM - you can shoot the pet prairie dogs with your camera
As you continue west you'll have a decision to make; go over the Big Horns to Cody (you can go over at Buffalo via US 16 or just north of Sheridan via US 14) or do you continue on I-90 into Montana to the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument - what I'd recommend. Big Horn mountains are just another mountain, the Battlefield provides a more thought provoking experience as viewed from two different perspectives - a teaching moment. After the battlefield spent the night in either Billings or Red Lodge Montana because...
You're going to take the scenic route to Cody. You'll go to Red Lodge and take the "Beartooth All American Road" over the Beartooth Mountains (US 212)[Charles Kuralt called it "the most beautiful drive in America", I concur]. When you get to Highway 296 (Chief Joseph Highway) turn left, do not continue straight towards YNP/Cooke City. Continue on the Chief Joe and when you get to Dead Indian Pass pull out and read the interpretive signs. This is part of the 1,500 mile route that Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce tribe took trying to out run the cavalry to Canada. His famous quote, I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever.
While in Cody the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, maybe the rodeo and on to YNP/GTNP.
YNP things not to miss: If you come in the east entrance via Cody: Yellowstone Lake, Fishing Bridge, after fishing bridge up through the Hayden Valley to Upper/Lower Falls of Yellowstone River & Artist Point. From there you can take the loop back around towards old Faithful and through several geyser basins that have boardwalks to get out and explore. After Old Faithful you can head out the south entrance to Grand Teton NP and Jackson hole.
So when you're done with YNP/GTNP how to head back. No brainer we're talking Lewis & Clark (mandatory reading before the trip; Undaunted Courage by Stephen Ambrose. So where ever you are just head to Threeforks Montana. What an educational, teaching, reflective couple of days this will be. Journey back to 1804, paddling, sailing and dragging a couple boats up the Missouri River trying to get to the Pacific Ocean. At Threeforks is where the Gallatin, Jefferson and Madison Rivers come together to being what we call the Missouri River, named so by Lewis & Clark... When they came to the junction on the way upstream they had to decide which fork to take, as Yogi Berra says when you come to a fork in the road take it... On the way back Lewis & Clark get to Threeforks and decide to split up, Clark says you know I think if I head east over these mountains I'll run into that Yellow River that joins the Missouri, I'll float down it and meet you there at the confluence....
After Threeforks go to Great Falls. There is a fantastic interpretive center of the expedition.
From Great Falls go Fort Benton (there was a steamboat the ran from St. Louis to Fort Benton). After Fort Benton Take 80 to 81 to 191 north through the Charlie M Russell National Wildlife Refuge, cross the Missouri. At Malta take highway 2 over to Fort Union and observe the confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone, pause to reflect on what those men accomplished. From there find your way back home....Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest - Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest - Lewis and Clark Interpretive Centerwww.fs.usda.gov
I can only add a stop at Pompey's pillar right off I94 East of Billings. The only physical evidence left of the Lewis and Clark expedition.
Pompey's Pillar
DirtySteve
Gold $$ Contributor
I like the Dude Ranch Josh posted..(Meaning I think it would be great). Cody is nice hit the museum as has been stated. Cody has a rodeo every night on the west end of town heading toward YNP...
The Beartooth highway is on my to do list.. Very scenic.. and Glacier NP.. Take the smaller roads when ever possible for nice views. Granted some turn to gravel... Oh... Never get below a half tank of gas when going east through Montana. Towns are few and far between.. Well on the roads I drive they are. Hit Rushmore but skip that damn Crazy Horse trap... They have worked longer on it than it took to do all of Rushmore and only have the face done....!!! Well and the hole under the arm.. Big whoop..
The Beartooth highway is on my to do list.. Very scenic.. and Glacier NP.. Take the smaller roads when ever possible for nice views. Granted some turn to gravel... Oh... Never get below a half tank of gas when going east through Montana. Towns are few and far between.. Well on the roads I drive they are. Hit Rushmore but skip that damn Crazy Horse trap... They have worked longer on it than it took to do all of Rushmore and only have the face done....!!! Well and the hole under the arm.. Big whoop..
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