Tips for using the stripped bolt method for seating depth.
- Thread starter Alex Wheeler
- Start date
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Yes it does. You need to strip a few additional things - remove the front bolt baffle, wave spring, rear baffle/ cam, the cocking piece and cocking piece sleeve. Put the firing pin assembly back in to keep the toggle bolt in position to hold the bolt head. If you don't, the toggle bolt will 'fall' once you rotate the bolt closed and gravity takes effect. You can either hold it in with scotch tape, or just put the firing pin assembly back in and it'll take care of itself.
Once done and reassembled you will have *zero* extraction, so be a little careful about 'stuffing' the bullet into the lands - otherwise you may need to get creative to get things back out again. DAMHIKT...
I've been using the stripped bolt method for quite awhile . Strip bolt means just that , only the bolt housing . No firing spring assembly, ejector plunger or extractor . I find my case headspace and ogive measurements with a stripped bolt . Works very accurate for me , takes some time going back and forth from die to chamber , haven't found a better system . Don't like zero settings , not good for bolt locking lugs on my Rem. 700
dave@aDave
Gold $$ Contributor
I would like to suggest that bore cleaning chemical/s seem to generate some attention
Someoldguy
And let's not forget the use of bore scopes, floating reamer holders, chambering methods, reamer suppliers, etc, etc, ad nauseam.
As my Grandmother used to say, 'For heaven's sake! You kids would fight over a dead toad!'
hey guys. lots of ways to skin this cat. most work quite well. even the top of the top don't agree on something as simple as bore cleaning.
it is all about what works for you. there are 100's of variables we deal with in shooting and reloading. if you have found a path through all of it that gives you satisfaction on target then so be it. you can offer up what has worked for you but don't get your feelings hurt if someone disagrees.
i have been down the rabbit hole. i know with more experience many of those who were so single minded about how to do something will mellow out and even try some of the things that push them out of there comfort zone.
i am pretty secure in my knowledge and experience. i learned long ago that there may be a better way. if i read about it i try it. then i can make an informed decision as to whether it works for me. i just ignore the uninformed and argumentative post. figure if they stick with it they will eventually figure it out for themselves.
it is all about what works for you. there are 100's of variables we deal with in shooting and reloading. if you have found a path through all of it that gives you satisfaction on target then so be it. you can offer up what has worked for you but don't get your feelings hurt if someone disagrees.
i have been down the rabbit hole. i know with more experience many of those who were so single minded about how to do something will mellow out and even try some of the things that push them out of there comfort zone.
i am pretty secure in my knowledge and experience. i learned long ago that there may be a better way. if i read about it i try it. then i can make an informed decision as to whether it works for me. i just ignore the uninformed and argumentative post. figure if they stick with it they will eventually figure it out for themselves.
rthor
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks Alex.... I’m using your method with my Defiance action and experiencing the extractor side pressure issue. Your suggestion is “I put a piece of tape on the bottom of the extractor to hold it up enough to eliminate that.” Later in this thread, Ledd Slinger suggested a little file work on the claw. Could you please give a bit more guidance...maybe a picture? Thanks again!
Raythemanroe
Bullet Whisperer
I use this Stripper method because it has been repeatable for me.
Ray
Ray
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
Remove the mini16 extractor, place a couple layers of electrical tape on the underside of the extractor and trim it flush to the edge. It will keep the extractor up a little more.
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Alex, if you yourself do anneal what determines when you do anneal?Annealing should not even BE a topic. Its like everything else. Its works with some combos and will kill the accuracy of others. Blanket statements about annealing just mean you have not worked with enough barrels and calibers yet
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
The target.
I watched a fella last Saturday shoot a 196-7 then a 193-5 then a 200-15. Only difference was he annealed the brass for the last string. It was in the worst wind condidtions as well.
Annealing helps some cartridges more then others. I see where the necks are thicker and longer, another words having way more hold, it seems to help more. The Dasher with the short neck and thin walls is way more touchy. My buddy anneals his Dasher every time and wins more relays then anybody. He also shot the smallest group aggs in light gun at Williamsport then was ever shot. Matt
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
Scores dont tell me a thing about accuracy. Now if the lower scores were all vertical I guess that could mean something. But a 190 vs a 200 could be so many other things that I find it a poor measure of accuracy. Would need to see those targets to determine if the load was better or not. Even then maybe he had just leaned the conditions better by the 3rd target??
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
I am not anti annealing by any means. Im anti guessing, and Im anti doing something because someone does it that way. I have annealed every time, I have also annealed every 3-5 times, I have also not annealed. Just do some testing and see how your rifle responds. Annealing drastically changes neck tension. Just a different lot of bullets can change whether or not the rifle likes annealing (pressure rings).
With annealing brass my way of thinking , I would do more harm then good .
Last season I got 25 reloads out of the same 30 HMR brand cases , when one out of the lot showed a minor crack at the case mouth I dumped all 30 . At that time I was tweaking my reloads during this period . This season I'm using 3 sets of 30 each set a different brand , HSM , FC and ADI , all three are on the thick side .
I'm using the same load , no tweaking and I finding my groups are accurate and consistent now that I'm concentrating on only my form . Different weather conditions linked with all the other variables in reloading , annealing brass would throw something else into the mix .Maybe brass has a life just like a rifle barrel , after a barrel is shot out you're never going to get that tight group .
This season alternating the 3 different brass brands , I'm testing if one brand works better then the other . The stripped bolt works great for me , I do it every new lot of bullets .
Last season I got 25 reloads out of the same 30 HMR brand cases , when one out of the lot showed a minor crack at the case mouth I dumped all 30 . At that time I was tweaking my reloads during this period . This season I'm using 3 sets of 30 each set a different brand , HSM , FC and ADI , all three are on the thick side .
I'm using the same load , no tweaking and I finding my groups are accurate and consistent now that I'm concentrating on only my form . Different weather conditions linked with all the other variables in reloading , annealing brass would throw something else into the mix .Maybe brass has a life just like a rifle barrel , after a barrel is shot out you're never going to get that tight group .
This season alternating the 3 different brass brands , I'm testing if one brand works better then the other . The stripped bolt works great for me , I do it every new lot of bullets .
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Raythemanroe
Bullet Whisperer
Where is the reasoning for the annealing harm? Different variables doesn't fly, it either helps or it doesn't.
Ray
With annealing, every time you seat a bullet, with the same bushing, you get the same neck tension. Period.
Without annealing, as the brass work hardens, using the same neck bushing...you get different neck tension. And you don't know it until you seat the bullet...and then it's too late to change the bushing to get the proper neck tension.
If nothing else, annealing will give you consistency in sizing (bump) and neck tension for bullet seating.
Without annealing, as the brass work hardens, using the same neck bushing...you get different neck tension. And you don't know it until you seat the bullet...and then it's too late to change the bushing to get the proper neck tension.
If nothing else, annealing will give you consistency in sizing (bump) and neck tension for bullet seating.
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