Tips for using the stripped bolt method for seating depth.

[bbarber25]

For us newbies, it would be helpful if someone would post instructions on how to strip a bolt. I use the Stoney point tool because taking the bolt spring out does not seem to be a simple proposition.

Check Alex’s website, wheeleraccuracy, he’s got a great video on disassembling various bolts.

 

[dmoran]

A tip for the stripped bolt method:
- if one does not want to strip the ejection plunger, one can drill a hole in a case head a few thousandths larger, and index the case each time over the ejector/plunger for the task.

 

[Ccrider]

Check Alex’s website, wheeleraccuracy, he’s got a great video on disassembling various bolts.

Thanks. I have looked all over the net/YouTube and must have missed it.

 

[TZaun]

Here’s how Alex’s stripped bolt method helps my rifle: it’s been at least a couple hundred competition (F-Class) rounds since I last did it. I just found out my lands moved .010” away since then. I still had a few rounds left of the old seating depth, which is now .015” off the lands. I loaded up 5 that are back to .005” off. I shot 10 shots to warm up the barrel and foul it, shot the left group which are jumping .010” too much now, and then shot the right group which are my .005” off load. These are at 600 yards. I’m a firm believer that is a repeatable reference point.

 

[dmoran]

 

[alinwa]

Removing the EJector from the bolt is so important as well as using a sized case such that one feels absolutely no resistance at bolt closure. I a firm believer in seating bullets into the lands( engravings twice as long as wide) and your described technique has been a Godsend! Thank you.

But I have many setups where you will never get marks like that

I have several reamers with compound leade angles, some with stepped leade, some which show a ring clear around the bullet and very few which show the classic coffin-shaped scuffs. I generally try to match the leade angle to my ogive and it appears I've been quite successful, maybe too successful.

I recently spent a ton of time trying to find 'touch' until I finally ran the borescope in to find that the entire leade ramps were coated with silver Sharpie where the bullet had been being lovingly cradled. NO distinct marks on the bullets, leade completely silvered with a snowy coating of ink.

On some of my SR BR rifles I can still often get the marks and yes, they're useful and easy.

But I still don't strip the bolt.

I WOULD strip the bolt if I was using sloppy necks and factory fits but time has taught me that getting that scrupulous with a factory setup is just silly as any "gains" are completely swamped by the wild inaccuracies induced by other factors.

Basically, if my rounds don't go in perfectly straight with all the parts in place, I FIND THE PROBLEM.

And fix it.

 

[JFrank]

Thank you Mr. Wheeler '
I thank you sir for starting this thread also for all of the time you've spent sharing your knowledge and expertise.
As a Novice I refer back to theses threads quite often and find them extremely helpful.
I look forward to your next Topic.
Regards
Jim

 

[Link]

Most know Mr' Wheeler but forgive me, who is alinwa?
Inquiring minds.

 

[jimmymac]

To me, using the stripped bolt method is a really easy way to find the lands. It takes very little time. No sharpie required.

I also take the additional step of finding my jam length. Seat a bullet long, let the bolt do the final work and record the dimension. Now I have 2 dimensions I can work with.

The ideal seating depth on both of my SR BR guns is located between those two dimensions. Sometimes we make this stuff harder than it has to be. YMMV

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Al, whats wrong with the ring? I have all those types of throats too, been playing around with that for some time. The ring is the touch point. I personally dont worry about marks, I look for the click of the bullet being pulled from the lands. But when watching the marks they will disappear at the same time.
Again the point of this is not to convince you to change your method. I truly dont care how anyone else does it. But if you do use this method, these tips will help.

 

[Homerange]

Most know Mr' Wheeler but forgive me, who is alinwa?

Does it matter ?

Nobody knows me and I don't use either method, instead 2 cleaning rods, one to hold the projectile against the lands and the other to do 2 measurements from the muzzle, one to the bolt face and then to the bullet tip.
That gives the max COAL.
Quick, easy and good enough for hunting needs.



And BTW the other subject that polarizes members: neck sizing !

 

[Puzzaz01]

Annealing should not even BE a topic. Its like everything else. Its works with some combos and will kill the accuracy of others. Blanket statements about annealing just mean you have not worked with enough barrels and calibers yet

I'm in total agreement with Alex on his bullet seating technique using the stripped bolt procedure. I use Borden actions without an ejector. When I first saw Alex's video ..... I thought why haven't I thought of that? And yes it works perfectly, repeatable and accurately.

 

[jamesdmock]

If one does not want to strip his bolt, there is another method for finding where the bullet touches the lands. This method uses a loaded round and the bolt OUT of the rifle. Place the loaded round in the chamber and push it with your finger against the lands. Then, place a cleaning rod down the bore and put some pressure against bullet while pushing the base of the cartridge with your finger (I use my little finger). By seating the bullet deeper and deeper, one can tell (by feel) when there is no contact with the lands. I was a little skeptical about this method until I tried it. It may not be quite as accurate as Alex's method, but it will give one a starting point to finding the seating depth. Good shooting.... James

 

[Drolds72]

Ok. Borden BRM with the bolt stripped and ejector out as well. I put the bolt back in stripped and it drops freely just like the video. I put in a sized piece of brass, usually .002 bump, and bolt just quite doesn’t want to drop. Tried bumping it to .004 with no change. Any thoughts on what to try to get it to drop?

 

[Doug Beach]

Ok. Borden BRM with the bolt stripped and ejector out as well. I put the bolt back in stripped and it drops freely just like the video. I put in a sized piece of brass, usually .002 bump, and bolt just quite doesn’t want to drop. Tried bumping it to .004 with no change. Any thoughts on what to try to get it to drop?

Either small base size the case you want to use, or use a new (newer) piece of brass.

 

[Drolds72]

Either small base size the case you want to use, or use a new (newer) piece of brass.

Tried it with a brand new piece of brass as well. Same feeling. Whidden bushing 6br die. I don’t have small base die for it. Could that extractor be levering the case over enough to make it rub in the chamber?

 

[KenOath]

Blanket statements about annealing just mean you have not worked with enough barrels and calibers yet [/QUOTE]


Is this for or against annealing?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Blanket statements about annealing just mean you have not worked with enough barrels and calibers yet

Is this for or against annealing?[/QUOTE]
Neither. In some cases annealing is good, others its not. My advice is to work up loads with un annealed brass. Then anneal 10 cases and try them, if the groups open, adjust neck tension. If you cant get them to shoot as well, at least you didnt ruin all your cases. If it shoots better, then do the rest. In general if a powder likes a lot of neck tension, it probably wont like annealed brass.

 

[alinwa]

Most know Mr' Wheeler but forgive me, who is alinwa?
Inquiring minds.

Obviously 'Link' since you've never heard of me I'm nobody important..... best you ignore my stuff and go back to watching the Kardashians.

Alex, and Donovan. I've watched Alex' vids and used this method and as always I'M NOT ARGUING EITHER! It's brilliantly simple, quite precise, especially under some circumstances and ingenious in it's use of an often unused symptom, that of the bullet "sticking" in the lands.

I just don't use the method because it doesn't do anything I need nor use. AND, as I've tried to explain earlier I have a lot of setups where the bullet simply does not stick in the lands nor mark the bullet.

Meantime, anyone who feels that .001 or .003 adjustments at the lands are meaningful, this is one way to do it

 

[JFrank]

Is this for or against annealing?

Neither. In some cases annealing is good, others its not. My advice is to work up loads with un annealed brass. Then anneal 10 cases and try them, if the groups open, adjust neck tension. If you cant get them to shoot as well, at least you didnt ruin all your cases. If it shoots better, then do the rest. In general if a powder likes a lot of neck tension, it probably wont like annealed brass.[/QUOTE]
I'm going to second that statement as I've just experienced annealed cases loosing neck tension followed groups opening up erratically. I'm hoping to recover neck tension with a smaller bushing.
I will be keeping a close eye on them.
Jim