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Time to make the donuts....

Today's project was making this stop for the linkage on the George Ulrich converted Lee Classic Cast press. The idea was shamelessly stolen from Randy Robinett. :oops:

I'll get a chance later this week to try it out. Prior to this, the press ram would dwell a bit at the top before moving a slight bit lower. Even w/o any sort of stop, the base-to-ogive was always within .0015-.002. If I don't like the stop, I can always go back to not using the stop.

NORclr8l.jpg

Rgs0q6Zl.jpg
You got a drill and tap and know how to use it!!!
 
Did it on a mill. Threads were tapped with a tap guide in a 1/2" arbor.
Mills make the best drill presses :D

Many many years ago a buddy told me that once I got a mill I’d probably never use my drill press again. He’s almost right, I do use the drill press but it’s rare. He had a nice variable speed Clausing drill press he kept around for years but finally sold it because he never used it. I have a really nice variable speed Clausing, so nice that I just can’t bear to part with it……yet :confused:
 
Bought a nice aluminum speed handle for the mill vise. First time using it was yesterday, making this stop...love it.

I need to make a stop for it to keep it from migrating forward on the hex shaft when using it. If you're not watching it, your thumb can (will) get pinched between the handle and the underside of edge of the vise.

With a choice between stitches or Dermabond, I chose the later. On the plus side, I'm now up to date on my Tetanus vaccination. And the nurses got a chuckle out of the black electrical tape holding a wad of paper towel on.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
And the nurses got a chuckle out of the black electrical tape holding a wad of paper towel on.
Best bandaid ever invented :p

FWIW if you crash and burn with abrasions or gouges on your arms, legs, shoulders, etc… hydrocolloidal bandages topped with Fixomull tape (aka tattoo tape) to seal and help hold them in place is the bomb! Compeed is the name branded bandages but generic and larger sizes are readily available. Compeed markets them for blister care. A doc friend turned me on to them.
 
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Got busy last weekend and finished Pointing Up
This lot of jackets are a bit different for me. Normally i don't re-lube/tumble after core seat, just use 3.2 grains for a whole 1800 count bucket and run them, but these you can't as they will stick on the punch and not stay in the core seat die. So for these i used 1.7 grains of lube for core seat and re-lubed with an additional 1.7 grs for point up and everything ran perfectly.
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Almost 2 months into modeling and testing, I have a Jacket load system I can print! Very cool stuff with 3D printing! The one pictured is for 6mm and will handle 1.150" jackets. I have a 6.5mm and 30 cal models. Had input from Scott W. and Dave C., thanks!
 

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Got busy last weekend and finished Pointing Up
This lot of jackets are a bit different for me. Normally i don't re-lube/tumble after core seat, just use 3.2 grains for a whole 1800 count bucket and run them, but these you can't as they will stick on the punch and not stay in the core seat die. So for these i used 1.7 grains of lube for core seat and re-lubed with an additional 1.7 grs for point up and everything ran perfectly.
View attachment 1731532View attachment 1731534
Thanks for posting this Mark. I’m having this same issue at the moment.
 
Got busy last weekend and finished Pointing Up
This lot of jackets are a bit different for me. Normally i don't re-lube/tumble after core seat, just use 3.2 grains for a whole 1800 count bucket and run them, but these you can't as they will stick on the punch and not stay in the core seat die. So for these i used 1.7 grains of lube for core seat and re-lubed with an additional 1.7 grs for point up and everything ran perfectly.
View attachment 1731532View attachment 1731534
I have one bucket left of that lot. They shot really well for me.
 
After some measuring of the ram travel, I milled a .075 deep recess in the face of the stop. That lets the ram move lower before the flat stop plate interferes with the ram ....keeps as much travel as possible. Using a magnetic base indicator, the ram was brought up to the dwell point and the stop screws adjusted to firmly touch the linkage.

That hit the mark pretty close. The die only needed a half flat of adjustment ( about .006") to hit the b-o measurement that gives a nice metplat. At that point, there is about .020" clearance between the ram and the stop plate.

Good shootin' :) -Al

tmBSqUpl.jpg
 
Thoughts on lubing once for the whole process or lubing again after core seating prior to point up? Would it be better to use more lube initially or relube? Consequences of relubing?

Sometimes there is no choice but to relube once you're committed.

I've done both.

Later

Dave
 
Thoughts on lubing once for the whole process or lubing again after core seating prior to point up? Would it be better to use more lube initially or relube? Consequences of relubing?

Sometimes there is no choice but to relube once you're committed.

I've done both.

Later

Dave
Dave
I’ve done both mostly because I had to add more lube in order for them to run
The only issue I have with tumbling after core seating is the lead residue that gets on the jackets if you tumble too long. It gets nasty fast that seems to further complicate the ejection problems
 
I use very little lube for the core seat, then I clean the jar and re-lube the core sested jackets before pointing up. Through experimenting I have determined exactly how much lube to use in each operation.

I have never had a problem with lead contaminating the jar. I do use a very close core seating punch, and made a little tool that we use every tenth core seat to keep any lead off the punch.
 
What do you, with your extensive experience, think about the bleed in the video? I can't get it to be uniform around the entire circumference, no matter what core seater diameter punch I use.
I don't think the punch is oval-shaped. Could it possibly be a difference in the thickness of the jacket?

These are .30 caliber jackets with a length of 1,270".

I sectioned them to better assess the bleed.



2.gif
 
Lacking a bore scope, that's a nice way to get a good eye on the bleed by.

Is it an illusion or is the top of the core slightly dome shaped....are the cores dome shaped on both ends or flat? The core also looks to have a raised nub in the center?
 

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