Threading barrels

[urbanrifleman]

If your lathe can go slow it's easier to just get comfortable working up to the shoulder than it is to do all of that upside down and backwards setup.

One thing about my new standard modern is that it stops dead in its tracks the second you turn it off. It does not glide to a stop at all. I'm not sure why it does that. It might be a feature of that lathe. After watching that video my lathe will stop every bit that fast as he's doing with the VFD.

 

[LVLAaron]

Probably has clutches?

 

[Carl S]

One thing about my new standard modern is that it stops dead in its tracks the second you turn it off. It does not glide to a stop at all. I'm not sure why it does that. It might be a feature of that lathe. After watching that video my lathe will stop every bit that fast as he's doing with the VFD.

I'm guessing it will have a brake on it that will engage as soon as you turn it off.

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

My 2 cents worth........I've threaded by every method listed here....including metric without the halfnut (imperial lead screw). Using HSS as well as carbide. All of them work if you do them right. Before retirement, I found myself using the upside down away from the chuck threading on the breech end on prefits and relief groove for the shouldered barrels. Almost all the muzzle threads were done using the relief method.

I like the results of slow spindle speeds and HHS for the prettiest threads.

 

[ridgeway]

Haven't you got a threading dial that engages the lead screw.if so you can disengage the half nuts.then re-engage them when the dial gets round to your desired number.

Not on a Hardinge.

 

[DShortt]

Multiple threads discussing the ins and outs of threading, chambering, action truing, custom actions ect, ect, ad nauseam yet most guys throw on a set of rings/bases and plop down a scope that likely cost as much or more than the rifle and check ......

Nothing.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Instead of grinding a threading bit, I provided the requirement to ThinBit to thread closer to the tenon shoulder. After a few discussions, here is what we agreed on, made from carbide. They sold me just the minimum quantity order.

View attachment 1394239

Brother paid for them, use them exclusively on his VFS barrels

I want some of these. What is the minimum qty?

 

[Bamban]

I want some of these. What is the minimum qty?

My recollection, it was 10 at that time. Let me dig up the invoice.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

My recollection, it was 10 at that time. Let me dig up the invoice.
View attachment 1394507

Do they take a toolholder like this one?

 

[Walt Krafft]

I would add some positive top rake to it. I have used both neutral and positive rake inserts ant the positive rake cuts much smoother with less rearing.

 

[Bamban]

Do they take a toolholder like this one?

View attachment 1394516

Yes. This is mine

 

[WSnyder]

I'm not sure why it does that. It might be a feature of that lathe.

Looks like many of the models come with an electric spindle brake. My 14” Nardini has an electric spindle brake and stops near instantly too.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Questions about threading up to the shoulder----breech end :

How close to the shoulder does the threading tool get ?

How much variation do you allow?

Wishing all a wonderful Christmas.

A. Weldy

 

[INTJ]

Questions about threading up to the shoulder :

How close to the shoulder does the threading tool get ?

How much variation do you allow?

Wishing all a wonderful Christmas.

A. Weldy

Well when you're just starting out and make a mistake it can hit the shoulder. Normally, I make sure I have daylight between the shoulder and the tool. And the relief groove doesn't change that.

The main points of the relief groove is to allow the threads to naturally end vs ending in a circle, which is what happens when you disengage the half nut and let it spin. Also, to avoid rolling a thread if you cut the groove after threading. A lot of the time, especially with muzzles, there isn't any relief in the brake so you have to make sure things can be threaded to the shoulder. A relief groove ensures that.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Well when you're just starting out and make a mistake it can hit the shoulder. Normally, I make sure I have daylight between the shoulder and the tool. And the relief groove doesn't change that.

The main points of the relief groove is to allow the threads to naturally end vs ending in a circle, which is what happens when you disengage the half nut and let it spin. Also, to avoid rolling a thread if you cut the groove after threading. A lot of the time, especially with muzzles, there isn't any relief in the brake so you have to make sure things can be threaded to the shoulder. A relief groove ensures that.

Thanks for the reply INTJ.

I've edited to specify breech end.

A. Weldy

 

[INTJ]

Thanks for the reply INTJ.

I've edited to specify breech end.

A. Weldy

The breech end is where I have crashed. I just want enough clearance so I don't hit the shoulder

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Well when you're just starting out and make a mistake it can hit the shoulder. Normally, I make sure I have daylight between the shoulder and the tool. And the relief groove doesn't change that.

The main points of the relief groove is to allow the threads to naturally end vs ending in a circle, which is what happens when you disengage the half nut and let it spin. Also, to avoid rolling a thread if you cut the groove after threading. A lot of the time, especially with muzzles, there isn't any relief in the brake so you have to make sure things can be threaded to the shoulder. A relief groove ensures that.

You gotta have a strong pullout game to not get that circle you speak of. Gotta get those dials set perfect and disengage/ pull out all in one motion. Itll look like this and i can set this barrel back .250 or .125 if i want and youll never be able to tell.

 

[paperpuncher]

You gotta have a strong pullout game to not get that circle you speak of. Gotta get those dials set perfect and disengage/ pull out all in one motion. Itll look like this and i can set this barrel back .250 or .125 if i want and youll never be able to tell.

View attachment 1395026View attachment 1395028

This is exactly what I try to do. One thing I do to assist a quick tool withdrawal is to position the handle on the cross slide at 11:00 or so A quick flip down backs the tool out and pull the half nut up

 

[INTJ]

You gotta have a strong pullout game to not get that circle you speak of. Gotta get those dials set perfect and disengage/ pull out all in one motion. Itll look like this and i can set this barrel back .250 or .125 if i want and youll never be able to tell.

View attachment 1395026View attachment 1395028

I am just not a pull out kind if guy........

And I am not much into rechambering. However, whenever I have to do a junky Remmy or Christensen I don't use a relief groove.

 

[tobnpr]

One thing I do to assist a quick tool withdrawal is to position the handle on the cross slide at 11:00 or so

This- and I zero the "Z" axis on the DRO at the pull-out location. For me, I'm more accurate timing the countdown to "0" than eyeballing when to snatch the tool out before it crashes.