I've seen this on 9mm and 223 range pickup that had gotten wet, rained on. So now I immediately take range pickup home, wash it and deprime before drying in a dehydrator before putting it on the shelf for later use.
Frank
Frank
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Can't see decapping with FLS die fitting my scenario. I will say that wet tumbling is one aspect of case cleaning that I would not use. It has the potential to create issues since there are unknown minerals in the water unless you use demineralized water which is probably not a good idea as it will leach the zinc from the brass. .I was initially decapping with RCBS die set and switched to a LEE Universal one with the same results.
Surely you didn't mean "43 grains of H110."Nope, it was standard loads with Winchester LR primers, NOS JHP, 43 grain H110, no flat primers and bullet seated with competition die to 1.600 COL.
Oops - no, that would not even fitSurely you didn't mean "43 grains of H110."
Never seen this before and I have loaded well over a combined 100,000 rounds of 38, 357, and 44 magnum pistol cartridges.
While I never used wet tumbling and know nothing about it, that would be the first element I would suspect. I try to keep water away from my reloads and firearms.
Yes, agree - that is what I normally do - not sure, why I did it differently this time. Well, that will not happen again...I deprime before I wet tumble with SS pins. Just saying.
Yes, it was mistyped....23 grains - one of the things I did in the last 25 years of reloading is staying below published max with every recipe, there is (at least in my books) nothing to gain with gambling here...43 grains of H110?…..you better check the frame on your revolver….. that’s about 19 or 20 grains over max load on a 240 jhp
Wayne
I knew it was a typo 43 wouldn’t fit, just goofing with ya.Yes, it was mistyped....23 grains - one of the things I did in the last 25 years of reloading is staying below published max with every recipe, there is (at least in my books) nothing to gain with gambling here...
Might have sommething to do with air drying and not getting all of the water/moisture out. I dry rifle cartridges in the kitchen oven at 190F for hours. When you get the damaged primer out does there look like any corrosion took place?First time I had this happen in 20+ years of reloading.
I started reloading some .44 mag today and realized that on some shells, the decaping pin simply pushed off the top of the primer and the rest got stuck - this happened to about 20 out of 300 shells. No idea why, they all were reloaded with the same load/bullet in a medium range, so there should have been no over-pressure causing this. I had them all wet tumbled with steel pins and let them air dry, but that was the same process for all of them as well...
Thoughts?
View attachment 1589212
Agree - was able to get half of them removed with a little bit (more) of force, the other half went into the bin... Cleaned the primer pockets and new primers seat without any issues.Bottom line is, if you can get the remaining piece of the primer out, the brass should be fine.
Lloyd
Primer weld. I’ve seen a few. Maybe 10-15 times in my lifetime.
I've had this happen a few times, which makes it at least three times for me to remember. Like @joshb, I chalked it up to primer weld. I toss 'em.Nope, they have been sitting in the dry basement for half a year.
It was a double mistake - I used LP and 23 grains... When I posted, I just got back from reloading some 500 S&W mag that used LRM and 43 grains H110... old brain starts to act up :-(To the OP, in post #9 you wrote you use Win LR primers, why use rifle primers in a hand gun case? I seem to recall that large rifle primers are longer than large pistol primers. I'll have to go through my documentation on primers to confirm that statement, but if it's true you may be squashing the primer into the case and causing extra force on the sides of the primer. Just a thought.
Mike
That doesn’t sound fun …..Wow!..my hats off to ya sir.It was a double mistake - I used LP and 23 grains... When I posted, I just got back from reloading some 500 S&W mag that used LRM and 43 grains H110... old brain starts to act up :-(
I doubt that primer cups are occasionaly made too thin. We don't know who Ni plates the cups. I would guess they are Ni plated after they are punched from long sheets of brass. It should be easy to hold the brass sheets to thickness tolerance. I think the charts put up on this website give thickness tolerances about +/- 0.002".I'd guess the residual water was the problem, or a contributing problem as well. Had the primers been faulty (ie; too thin, etc.,), that would have likely resulted in a pierced primer when fired. The water likely allowed corrosion to take place between the primer and the brass, creating a cold weld between the primer and the brass. That the brass sat for a long period of time before being reloaded could reinforce that theory. If you still have some of those primers and batch of brass that were not yet loaded, I'd seat some, pop them and see how they do being ejected when sizing. I'd guess they pop right out.
I agree. While there may be occasional bad lots of primers in some respects - I think how they are stored or used in conjunction with reloading practices create far more problems for shooters. Nothing to back that up - just seeing issues as to how folks do things that create problems leads me to believe this. In 50+ years, I have never had (that I recognized as) a truly bad batch of primers. Then again, maybe I did and wasn't aware it was the problem.....I doubt that primer cups are occasionaly made too thin. We don't know who Ni plates the cups. I would guess they are Ni plated after they are punched from long sheets of brass. It should be easy to hold the brass sheets to thickness tolerance. I think the charts put up on this website give thickness tolerances about +/- 0.002".