I would agree with you.Explain to me how lapping can get six surfaces in full 100% contact. Many are under the impression that lapping replaces proper machine work. It doesn't. Lapping mates two surfaces together. If they are not machined properly to start with you're using a high spot on one piece to make a low spot on the other piece. You don't end up with two perfectly flat surfaces. With that being said I do lap the action lugs, action lugs only, on some actions that come through in small quantity. I use a piloted lap that I continually true up as the process proceeds.
I assumed that everyone on this thread would realize, in this context, "tenths" refers to ten thousandths. WHA couple tenths? Of an inch?
even if there was a faultless action available , people will still miss what they're shooting at , and it still wont be the fault of the rifle they're shooting.
In my first ever attempt to have some type of a custom rifle I had a gunsmith in Missouri recommended to me. The man's name is Larry Smart.So, in bolt action receivers, there are basically 2 forms.
One with front locking lugs.
And one with rear locking lugs.
Either way, one end of the bolt is left "free hanging".
Would a bolt that locked at both the front and the rear be possible?
My line of thinking, is it would provide more support than allowing one end of the bolt unsupported.
Thoughts?
No offense but that thing is butt ugly..Here y’all go. Perfection!
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I may be wrong and someone that knows better can correct me but that seems backwardsIn my first ever attempt to have some type of a custom rifle I had a gunsmith in Missouri recommended to me. The man's name is Larry Smart.
I asked him to work over a Rem. 700 for a 6.5 Cred build. In conversation about what would or could be done, he asked me about sleeving the bolt. I had no knowledge of this so he explained the prosses.
He said "I can do the front and back of the bolt or just the front or back. I asked, if you only do one, what do you recommend? He said, (and this is my point)
"I would at the least do the back"
I stand correctedIt is the rear end of the bolt which is deflected upwards by the pressure of the sear on the cocking piece. This takes the top lug out of contact. If the rear of the bolt is aligned, the front will take care of itself.
On a Remington, I have installed the bumps to tighten up the rear then used a teflon o-ring in the barrel counterbore to align the nose of the bolt. This is only truly effective if the threads and locking lug seats are true and I'm not that sure there is enough benefit (based on testing) to make it worthwhile. I
Working with a 788, which locks at the rear and has a vertical contact between the sear and cocking piece, aligning the front might be more important than the rear. WH
You have just described a little known Mossberg rifle, believe it was the model 812, made for a couple of years following the model 810 -- also sold through Montgomery Ward as the Western Field brand. Had 2 lugs in a row, 2 rows of them, about normal size lugs for a 2 lug action. Had an extra long front receiver ring and was available only in .30-06 and 7mm Rem. Mag. as I remember, with a 3 position safety (ala Win. 70) and a horrible trigger. Didn't fare well in the rifle market, like most of the Mossberg designs.How about a four lug with two following.
It have more strength and the same bolt throw as a two lug
With locking lugs in the rear, I agree. Your just switching ends.Working with a 788, which locks at the rear and has a vertical contact between the sear and cocking piece, aligning the front might be more important than the rear. WH
I should have mentioned it, I had both ends done.I may be wrong and someone that knows better can correct me but that seems backwards
if you are going to sleave a bolt on a 700 I would think do both ends or none ,if for some reason you could only do one I would think the front one and not the back.