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Theoretically perfect receiver?

even if there was a faultless action available , people will still miss what they're shooting at , and it still wont be the fault of the rifle they're shooting.
 
Explain to me how lapping can get six surfaces in full 100% contact. Many are under the impression that lapping replaces proper machine work. It doesn't. Lapping mates two surfaces together. If they are not machined properly to start with you're using a high spot on one piece to make a low spot on the other piece. You don't end up with two perfectly flat surfaces. With that being said I do lap the action lugs, action lugs only, on some actions that come through in small quantity. I use a piloted lap that I continually true up as the process proceeds.
I would agree with you.
I wouldn't want to try to lap it. Its easier to make it right in the first place.
That was just a thought in consideration of what others have said I shouldn't have even added that.
Don't want to give anyone some bad ideas.
Actually it was also kind of a joke in reference to trying to lap in nine lugs of a Weatherby.
 
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Somewhere in the dark places in my brain I have the idea that there was once a gun manufacturer with a multi multi lug system that used hydraulic pressure to seat, deform the lugs into making contact.
 
even if there was a faultless action available , people will still miss what they're shooting at , and it still wont be the fault of the rifle they're shooting.

Indeed. Every sport/interest/activity/hobby seems to devolve into an equipment chase and the quest to improve one's performance through more expensive (ie: cooler) stuff. It's easier to blame equipment and then spend more money rather than to take the time and dedication to fix the biggest variable. Let's be honest. We all are itching for others to drool over our equipment, ask questions and give us the opportunity to talk about our toy. Ever notice all the thread responses which are irrelevant to the OP's question but someone simply saw it as an opportunity to talk about their own equipment?

Just like Lee Trevino used to snooker other players by swinging nothing but a Dr. Pepper bottle. And Tony Boyer still could bring a model 94 to the line and kick my ass.
 
The discussion is revolving around what might constitute the perfect receiver and, hence, the perfect action. There are theoretical advantages to various design features but I think, what we have come to realize is, no design can compensate for poor workmanship and sometimes, good workmanship CAN compensate for design shortcomings. Also, as has been pointed out, poor shooting can negate all of it! WH
 
So, in bolt action receivers, there are basically 2 forms.
One with front locking lugs.
And one with rear locking lugs.
Either way, one end of the bolt is left "free hanging".

Would a bolt that locked at both the front and the rear be possible?
My line of thinking, is it would provide more support than allowing one end of the bolt unsupported.

Thoughts?
In my first ever attempt to have some type of a custom rifle I had a gunsmith in Missouri recommended to me. The man's name is Larry Smart.
I asked him to work over a Rem. 700 for a 6.5 Cred build. In conversation about what would or could be done, he asked me about sleeving the bolt. I had no knowledge of this so he explained the prosses.
He said "I can do the front and back of the bolt or just the front or back. I asked, if you only do one, what do you recommend? He said, (and this is my point)
"I would at the least do the back"
 
In my first ever attempt to have some type of a custom rifle I had a gunsmith in Missouri recommended to me. The man's name is Larry Smart.
I asked him to work over a Rem. 700 for a 6.5 Cred build. In conversation about what would or could be done, he asked me about sleeving the bolt. I had no knowledge of this so he explained the prosses.
He said "I can do the front and back of the bolt or just the front or back. I asked, if you only do one, what do you recommend? He said, (and this is my point)
"I would at the least do the back"
I may be wrong and someone that knows better can correct me but that seems backwards
if you are going to sleave a bolt on a 700 I would think do both ends or none ,if for some reason you could only do one I would think the front one and not the back.
 
It is the rear end of the bolt which is deflected upwards by the pressure of the sear on the cocking piece. This takes the top lug out of contact. If the rear of the bolt is aligned, the front will take care of itself.
On a Remington, I have installed the bumps to tighten up the rear then used a teflon o-ring in the barrel counterbore to align the nose of the bolt. This is only truly effective if the threads and locking lug seats are true and I'm not that sure there is enough benefit (based on testing) to make it worthwhile. I
Working with a 788, which locks at the rear and has a vertical contact between the sear and cocking piece, aligning the front might be more important than the rear. WH
 
It is the rear end of the bolt which is deflected upwards by the pressure of the sear on the cocking piece. This takes the top lug out of contact. If the rear of the bolt is aligned, the front will take care of itself.
On a Remington, I have installed the bumps to tighten up the rear then used a teflon o-ring in the barrel counterbore to align the nose of the bolt. This is only truly effective if the threads and locking lug seats are true and I'm not that sure there is enough benefit (based on testing) to make it worthwhile. I
Working with a 788, which locks at the rear and has a vertical contact between the sear and cocking piece, aligning the front might be more important than the rear. WH
I stand corrected
Thanks
Now I see it
 
Wichitas are inherently accurate due to the straight bolts, runway , and 0.001 clearance between the two. This allowed the 3 lugs to make square contact. The only drawback was the stiff firing pin spring which made it hard to run fast without disturbing set up on bags.
I owned Wichita for 8 years and figured out some ways to improve on the drawbacks.
Champlin rifles were manufactured by Wichita. They make great hunting rifles.
 
How about a four lug with two following.
It have more strength and the same bolt throw as a two lug
You have just described a little known Mossberg rifle, believe it was the model 812, made for a couple of years following the model 810 -- also sold through Montgomery Ward as the Western Field brand. Had 2 lugs in a row, 2 rows of them, about normal size lugs for a 2 lug action. Had an extra long front receiver ring and was available only in .30-06 and 7mm Rem. Mag. as I remember, with a 3 position safety (ala Win. 70) and a horrible trigger. Didn't fare well in the rifle market, like most of the Mossberg designs.
 
I may be wrong and someone that knows better can correct me but that seems backwards
if you are going to sleave a bolt on a 700 I would think do both ends or none ,if for some reason you could only do one I would think the front one and not the back.
I should have mentioned it, I had both ends done.
The smith said, "at the least, do the rear." I didn't realize then what he was saying, but now I do. The rear of a bolt with front lugs, would benefit more with the sleeve in the rear.
Will Henery said:
'It is the rear end of the bolt which is deflected upwards by the pressure of the sear on the cocking piece. This takes the top lug out of contact. If the rear of the bolt is aligned, the front will take care of itself.'
 
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