• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Switch barrel rifles- how difficult?? Newbie help please

Hi
How many of you guys have switch barrel rifles??

Please explain your experience with a switch barrel and why you chose to build it instead of having 2 rifles?

How have you set them up??
What calibers are they in?

What scope,s) have you used? OR are you using 2 scopes an QR mounts? If using a QR system which one would you recommend?

Do you or have you changed barrels in the field- how difficult is it??
Can it be done without taking the action from the stock??
Do you go hand tight or do you use a tension wrench?
Once the new barrel is on- approx how much sight in error is there??

Thanks heaps- I really appreciate you help guys

Later
P
 
Have played with switch barrel rifles for over thirty years.

Have had them on Montana, Remington, Ruger, Sako, Savage, and Weatherby actions.

As stated well by Donovan Moran, there are real economies to having a single rifle share top-of-the-line scopes, triggers, stocks, etc but being able to switch between calibers by only changing the barrel.

There are also economies to having multiple barrels in the same caliber, again stated well by Donovan Moran. Have been in the prairie dog towns and switched amongst a dozen barrels while some barrels cooled and soaked in cleaning solvent.

Use quick-detachable scope rings that are set up to allow easy changing of scopes based on the shooting situation. For example, on one Savage have five scopes -- a 4X Leupold, a 6-24X Sightron, a 8-32X Bushell 4200, a Nightforce, etc taking advantage of different scope reticles, different field-of-views, different weights, etc. Scope settings for a given barrel and load are easily determined and returned to given a good scope with click settings. Some return well enough that you don't even check them on paper in the prairie dog towns, just use the next prairie dog as the confirmation. Would always check the scope setting, maybe with a collimator tool, before going after big game.

Use multiple stocks ranging from lead-weighted benchrest stock to ultra-lightweight synthetic stocks on a single barreled action.

Some switch barrel rifle setups require a barrel wrench, some use a barrel wrench and an action wrench, some use a barrel vise and an action wrench, and some use other tools. John Dustin rifle's barrel wrench can be carried in your pocket.

None that I use require a sophisticated tool for measuring barrel tension or tightness, though some others might recommend it. Hand tight is my approach.

Some setups like the Dustin do not need to have the stock removed to switch barrels. Some of my others do not also. But some do require stock removal. I prefer those that don't.


The rifle below is a left-hand Montana 1999 with 300 Wby, 375 H&H, and 458 Lott barrels allowing one rifle to be a complete three-gun set for Africa. The barrels can be changed in the field,though not between shots at charging cape buffalo).

IMGP2166.jpg



The rifle in the two pictures below has multiple bolt assemblies allowing a single rifle to shoot cartridges ranging from the 14-221 Walker to the 470 Capstick. Currently have over 100 barrels for it. Can switch barrels in the field in less than five minutes.

IMGP2171.jpg



IMGP2175.jpg


Have a Sako setup made by John Dustin that allows field changing in under a couple of minutes.

My largest switch caliber rifle includes a 550 Magnum in its set of barrels.

Switch barrels cannot be defended as a necessity. We really only need two rifles -- a 22 long rifle and a 460 Wby -- and I haven't found a way to switch easily from rimfire to centerfire in a bolt action,know it can be done with the Thompson Contender).

Switch rifles are fun.
 
I have four Blaser R93 stocks and about eleven barrels. Everything from 17HMR to an on order 400H&H. Except for one standard forearm gun, they are all interchangeable.

I gave up over 17 other custom rifles, and have never looked back. Check out my website www.BlaserPro.com
 
Ogre I have a TC encore with 7mm08 and 223 barrels. B&L 5x15 on the 223 and Nikon BDC 3x9 on the 7mm08.

I got the Encore because I wanted to be able to play with different calibers without having to to invest in complete rifles also only one trigger job.

Even with 26 inch barrels this is a short,lightweight package.

Barrel switches are a snap. You can change point of impact if you tourge the screws for the forend too tight.

I have been able to achieve really respectable accuracy with the 223 handloads .4s most of the time some high .2s but I think those were statistical anomalies as I cant do those with any regularity.

I am going to order a Bullberry in 6BR one of these days and really see what it will do.
 
I, too, am VERY interested in switch barrel rifles!

Have a Stiller SA setting here waiting for me to decide what all to build and who to build it. My plan is to have four different calibers for four different needs/wants. A heavy target 308 and 6MM????, a light varmint ??? and a light weight 7x57 hunting rifle. I have the barrel blanks and the stocks I need for this. I just need to decide what to build!

Also have a Stiller LA that has a 30-06 barrel on it now. I sent it to a smith asking him to set it up as a switch barrel 30-06 and I would send him the other barrels after hunting season. But when I got the gun back and ask about scheduling the next switch barrel after the hunting season, he said he did not set the gun up to be a switch barrel gun and that he would have to do it all over again.

Has anyone tried this idea? What do you think of this way?

http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm

Hammer, what does John Dustin’s wrench look like? When you say “Hand tight is my approach.”, do you mean only using your hand or with a barrel wrench while the action remains in the stock? Have you ever had a barrel loosen up on you after shooting it a lot? Do you use “hand tight” on your hunting guns too?
 
I used to use hand tight on my swapped barrels, until my last comp. It was and has been pretty cold in Las Vegas the last few months - in the upper 30s or low 40s if you include the wind chill. My rifle was going as usual at the start of the relay, and then started acting strange - the bolt was closing easier then normal - and the load went totally to crap. At the end of the relay, I grabbed the barrel to slide the rifle into its fabric cover,to keep the dust off without having to put it into a hard case) and the barrel twisted in my hand - yep twisted as in unthreading at that time.

When I installed this barrel,surgeon action port-based Remington action wrench) - approximately 125 rounds before the relay - I did my usual of putting anti-seize on the threads and tightened it hand tight. I was using a different anti-seize this time around and it must be some seriously good anti seize as it never let the barrel get tight enough not to come loose - as in unthread itself - in the cold conditions. I snugged it down between relays and then checked it during the next relay - good to go. Regardless, I put it in the barrel vice when I got home and gave it about 35-45 inch pounds of snug to keep it in place. Good news was my score jumped by 12 points in the second relay - even though conditions had degraded badly.

I'm not going to go hand tight anymore. My $0.02 your mileage may vary.

JeffVN
 
Skypilotbc uses a select match grade punch,Kmart screwdriver) and a precision power projection tool,a claw hammer) and with a single strike tightens,or loosens) the barrel when he changes barrel. It does a good job.
 
I use the same Davidson rear entry action wrench from Sinclair on a Kelbly Griz2, AMT, & Remington 700 action. Just remove the bolt, slide it in, & loosen or tighten with an adjustable wrench while the barrel is in any rubber jaw padded vise. Most of the time I just tighten barrels on without the tool using a slight jerk. Unlike a nutted Savage there’s no need to remove the scope or stock while changing barrels.
 
I also use an action wrench for my grizzly II, I dont have a way of getting a specific torque amount. i just do it by feel.


Hammer, Dam, thats a sweet setup.
 
TheSilverFox, the Davidson Remington tool has a ¾” nut head on it that should work with any standard socket and torque wrench. Just not sure of how much pressure it’d be OK to put on the action slides. Definitely wouldn’t use it for first time removal of any factory barrel.
 
Regarding Turk1961 question about LPRacine switch barrel rifles. I have one chambered in 6mm22/250 &6.5x55 both are Krieger barrels for a Savage action. Their is no barrel nut so you just need a 13/16 box wrench as their is a nut at the end of the barrel,just slight tap with the wrench and your good to go. Accuracy is very good but you do need a record book to keep track of the POA as they are differant.
 
Thanks, ArticWolf. That is good info.

How long have you been shooting with the
two barrels? How big is the shank on your
barrels? You would need something than the
normal Savage 1.055" to make the shoulder with.
Are your shanks normal Rem 1.2" size? Did he
make any changes to the Savage action?
 
Hi Ogre,

I have a Blaser R93 Professional in .270 Winchester. It is the most accurate rifle I have ever owned,consistent 1/2 MOA or better), and apart from the accuracy aspect there are several other reasons why I love this rifle, which are:

1). The ability to take the rifle completely apart and put it back together without any point of impact change. This also goes for the scope which can be taken off and put back on without any impact change.
2). Short overall length without compromising barrel length,my blaser is 3 inches shorter than a standard long action .270 with the same 22 inch barrel. It makes for a short and compact rifle great for bush hunting but has the legs for the long shot when the time comes.
3). I really like the straight pull action, and the way that the rounds feed straight into the chamber without needing a feed ramp.
4). Large choice of calibres,about 40!) which includes all American and European calibres
5). The most amazing trigger and the safety has to be seen to be believed.

I am still thinking on the next calibre, might be a 300 Win or .338, but for anything here in New Zealand the .270 is still one of the top choices, I think it is our number 2 most popular big game round down here. I guess for the same reasons that you guys in the US have always known about.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,249
Messages
2,192,102
Members
78,771
Latest member
AndrewL
Back
Top