Suppressor: Aluminum, stainless or titanium?
- Thread starter joshb
- Start date
I got one of the original Silencerco Harvesters. I use it on 222, 223, 6.5 CM, 300 blackout and 300 Win Mag. I got this one specifically because it was rated for 223 to 300 WM. The specs on Silencerco's website showed the Harvester was one of the quietest on 223. I have direct thread mounts for 1/2-28 and 5/8-24 and more recently I got into the ASR mount system which is a quick mount/dismount set up. I use that on various AR15s. It is not full auto rated and the minimum barrel length is 16 inches but those things are fine with me. I couldn't be happier. Works great for all my needs, No need for multiple suppressors. Want, now that's a different story.
The Harvester Evo seems like it would fit the bill just as well. Stainless steel, Inconel and cobalt-6.
The Harvester Evo seems like it would fit the bill just as well. Stainless steel, Inconel and cobalt-6.
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I have 2 1 is aluminum with SS caps and ones. it is light weight but a bit long as it was designed or a sub gun in FA. the other is small an is made l of inconel. while it is heavy it will out last me for sure. I would get Ti if me. The best of both worlds
good luck
good luck
Most rifle suppressors are rated for some 30 cal but not all, for example some won’t handle a 30 Win Mag. Others that will handle a 30WM won’t handle some of the bigger cases. There are so many possibilities in 30 cal it’s hard to list them all. If there are particular cases you are interested in it’s best to call or write the manufacturer to ask about the suppressor models you are considering.
Riesel
Gold $$ Contributor
My choice, have two
DRK
Silver $$ Contributor
File a Form 1 in duplicate, with two FD-258 cards. Your local sheriff's office or PD should do the prints for you, probably a small fee, pay the tax to ATF, $200, send a copy to your sheriff or chief of police if you live in town. You can do this hard copy or use Eforms, you will have to sign up for eforms & follow the instructions. You can get pdf Form 1 from ATF's website & order FD-258 cards from the ATF distribution center, there is no charge.
You will list yourself as the manufacturer, list a model if wanted, a serial no, caliber, & OAL. You will have to include a sketch of what you are building, it does not have to be fancy, you can use a yellow pad.
Once approved, you can build. I would not try and register a solvent trap. A solvent trap is a contraband item and you cannot register a contraband item, ATF has started denying these registrations, and should have never allowed them in the first place.
You can get materials from any decent local metal supplier. You are looking at basic turning operations, threading, etc. Look around YouTube, etc., you can learn a lot about running machine tools and basic machining.
The 3 things that bother me about suppressors. The length it adds, the weight it adds, and the dang wait time!!!!
Other than that the price of the stamp and or the price of the suppressor I feel is not that big of a deal.
Other than that the price of the stamp and or the price of the suppressor I feel is not that big of a deal.
Steel or Alu, the choice depends on what use you intend!
Here in Europe in general and Denmark in particular, suppressors has been increasingly popular and in most countries, the legislation has been eased a lot, in the recent time, here in DK for instance, there is no paperwork involved at all, if you have a registered rifle, you can buy whatever suppressor you want....!
There is a lot of makes and models available, but the Norwegian Hausken and A-Tech are top-notch in regard of Aluminum types and Ase Ultra of Finland are leading in stainless steel ( and are standard issue on Sako rifles for military purposes ).
I have seen very few models i titanium, the demand just isn't there, for the time being.
For a average hunter, i would recommend a alu, but a serious PRS competitor will need a stainless.
Here in Europe in general and Denmark in particular, suppressors has been increasingly popular and in most countries, the legislation has been eased a lot, in the recent time, here in DK for instance, there is no paperwork involved at all, if you have a registered rifle, you can buy whatever suppressor you want....!
There is a lot of makes and models available, but the Norwegian Hausken and A-Tech are top-notch in regard of Aluminum types and Ase Ultra of Finland are leading in stainless steel ( and are standard issue on Sako rifles for military purposes ).
I have seen very few models i titanium, the demand just isn't there, for the time being.
For a average hunter, i would recommend a alu, but a serious PRS competitor will need a stainless.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
If we had ANY legitimate elected representation, a firearm accessory at worse would be a form 4473 purchase/stamp charge. Because the current system either demonstrates how poorly the Form 4473 performs(prevents criminal purchases) or how slow/inefficient union government employees are(9 month wait times AFTER your tax money is collected). Really only difference between the 4473 phone call and suppressor "background check" is a phone call/email to your local law enforcement and a computer finger print search. The finger print search should be fast since they have your Identity already, especially on a second stamp application. The finger print search for most(never been printed) ties directly back to the local law enforcement background check. But then the whole system is totally based on date application is received.
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spike-55
Gold $$ Contributor
Josh,
Give these guys a call or look at their website. I shot with them in Kansas at the Balloon Blast. They make one of the nicest ones I have seen and very user friendly features, Full auto rated and customizable to your needs. They will help with questions and filling out the paperwork and E-filing
They also do some neat customization on pistol slides and other trick work for a great value.
stan
Veroarms
1612 South Mead
Wichita, Kansas 67211
316-264-2176
www.veroarms.com
info@veroarms.com
I've had both Titanium and aluminum. Hardy Rifle make some of the best by far (their 'mono core' baffle designs are machined from a single solid piece of aluminum) but not sure they can be sourced in the US.
www.hardyrifle.co.nz
Aside: The bureaucracy around these things in the US is such a joke. When I did my interview (yes you are interviewed) for my license in the UK the coppa asked if I intended to use a moderator/suppressor and encouraged me to do so. They are encouraged in NZ also. I had to sell all my moderators when I moved to the US. The thought of hunting without one makes me cringe.
Hardy Rifle Engineering | SUPPRESSORS
A significant investment in time and resources has crowned us leaders in the class of monocore technology, followed by independent testing awarding us NZ's most effective suppressor.
www.hardyrifle.co.nz
Aside: The bureaucracy around these things in the US is such a joke. When I did my interview (yes you are interviewed) for my license in the UK the coppa asked if I intended to use a moderator/suppressor and encouraged me to do so. They are encouraged in NZ also. I had to sell all my moderators when I moved to the US. The thought of hunting without one makes me cringe.
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3Ackleys
Gold $$ Contributor
I think you have outlined all the pros and cons well.
My first one was an Alum. can. My next one I'm waiting for approval is Titanium. The Silencer Co. Sythe-Ti. It is one of the quietest on the market, is 300 Rum rated with no barrel length restrictions. It weighs 7.3 oz. and is 6.16" long.
Only you can ultimately decide if it's worth it. My thought was I want lightweight, durable and as quiet as possible.
Do you remember what the guy was shooting?.
I have a D A Mask for the rimfire and want to get one for the blackie. I'm looking for the quietest on the market and field serviceable would be a plus.
JoshB, you have a lot of research to do. What you buy has to suit your needs, preferences, and specific use. For instance, I don't like Silencerco's customer service and I have heard of numerous failures with the Harvester line - two were catastrophic. I had minor problems with my Hybrid 46, which included a launch from the barrel due to their crappy quick detach system. It bored a new hole in my end cap and they promised to send a replacement, but never did after repeated reminders from my end.
I bought a Rugged Razor because I got a deal and I don't like it because it is heavy (SS) and it has a system to lock it on a muzzle brake that locks up to tight to get it off sometimes. Plus it's noisy. It stays in the safe unused.
Make sure of your decision because it's almost impossible to unload a suppressor you don't like and not lose money. If you want accuracy out of your rifle, I'm thinking the less moving parts you have, the better. So before I would go with something user serviceable, I would have to do some research on that.
Go ahead and buy a rim fire suppressor (or 2) when you buy a your center fire. I like them on my rim fire so much I have two. My favorite is a Thunderbeast Takedown 22. You'll find them so quiet that you find yourself puling your rim fire out every chance you get.
I bought a Rugged Razor because I got a deal and I don't like it because it is heavy (SS) and it has a system to lock it on a muzzle brake that locks up to tight to get it off sometimes. Plus it's noisy. It stays in the safe unused.
Make sure of your decision because it's almost impossible to unload a suppressor you don't like and not lose money. If you want accuracy out of your rifle, I'm thinking the less moving parts you have, the better. So before I would go with something user serviceable, I would have to do some research on that.
Go ahead and buy a rim fire suppressor (or 2) when you buy a your center fire. I like them on my rim fire so much I have two. My favorite is a Thunderbeast Takedown 22. You'll find them so quiet that you find yourself puling your rim fire out every chance you get.
I've built a few over the last 30years and used them exclusively for hunting.stainless and titanium hold up better.aluminium is light which I use these days.weight is an issue as I've got older,father time catches up with everyone.if your application is hunting where your only having a few shots aluminium is fine.varminting-High volume shooting stainless or titanium is the way to go.
Suppressors.com or silencer.com been a while since I used it, had/has a Form 1 filing on a page by page basis, with yellow highlights, for dummies. I used their pages to get mine right, the first time out.
The can itself is really not difficult, a list as Stacked, The Big Book.
1) an external tube 8-10" with internal threads both ends, I prefer the D cell battery size tubes. Must be lettered just like a gun, same depth and size lettering and numbers with Name, address, Make and Model, Serial number. Buy on line
2) a smooth internal SS tube it's inside exterior tube for a barrel muzzle blast chamber, 1-1/12" long, Buy on line.
3) two end caps (the can muzzle od threaded only and barrel muzzle od and I'd threaded) buy on line. You call the id thread size like 5/8x24 or 1/2"x28, etc.
4) 8-9 freeze plugs stacked, auto parts store.
Nothing is drilled through the middle until you get the stamps in your hand. Then everything is center drilled, over size, preferably in a lathe, as an example only a .308 wouuld be drillled .338.
End of Big Book
If you want domed baffles you can buy a dome baffle die kit on line and a 10 ton hydraulic jack with an arbor press, square, in pieces, from Harbor Freight. Seems like the dome baffles are a bit quieter. Dome and then drill if you wish.
Nice part about building your own can and having a parts washer is just taking it apart to soak, then washing and brushing it off, in and out, reassemble and go shoot.
Basically if you can change out a drain pipe wit P trapp, under a bathroom sink, you got this.
The can itself is really not difficult, a list as Stacked, The Big Book.
1) an external tube 8-10" with internal threads both ends, I prefer the D cell battery size tubes. Must be lettered just like a gun, same depth and size lettering and numbers with Name, address, Make and Model, Serial number. Buy on line
2) a smooth internal SS tube it's inside exterior tube for a barrel muzzle blast chamber, 1-1/12" long, Buy on line.
3) two end caps (the can muzzle od threaded only and barrel muzzle od and I'd threaded) buy on line. You call the id thread size like 5/8x24 or 1/2"x28, etc.
4) 8-9 freeze plugs stacked, auto parts store.
Nothing is drilled through the middle until you get the stamps in your hand. Then everything is center drilled, over size, preferably in a lathe, as an example only a .308 wouuld be drillled .338.
End of Big Book
If you want domed baffles you can buy a dome baffle die kit on line and a 10 ton hydraulic jack with an arbor press, square, in pieces, from Harbor Freight. Seems like the dome baffles are a bit quieter. Dome and then drill if you wish.
Nice part about building your own can and having a parts washer is just taking it apart to soak, then washing and brushing it off, in and out, reassemble and go shoot.
Basically if you can change out a drain pipe wit P trapp, under a bathroom sink, you got this.
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