Adding Alliant RL-15 to your selection of powders may enhance or peak as your favorite .308 Winnie Pooh powder. .308 Winchester shoots 150 grain fare best, with 130 and lighter grain fare as not quite so accurate. .308 Winchester thrives on 150 to 165 grain fare, with 130 grain as TOO LIGHT and 180 grain as TOO HEAVY. Coyotes are best hunted with .223 Remington, .22/250 Remington, .243 Winchester, 6mm Remington type ammo @ 36 to 60 grain fare. Not to forget .220 Swift either with 55 grain lightning bolts. Since I will soon buy a .308 Winchester rifle, I have studied this caliber intently. Better for Elk than for Coyote. Today my .223 Remington stuffed ten 36 grainers into one ragged hole off the bench. Cliffy
Suggestions for coyote caliber.
- Thread starter Kenny474
- Start date
Cliffy
This is kind of an experiment to see if the .308 will work, as I know there are far better suited rounds for the game at hand. If the .308 is deemed unacceptable, than I will most likely go with a 22-250 or .243. But since this rifle was a gift from my Father that he intended for me to use during deer season, it was purchased in a caliber best suited for the big whitetail that roam New England.
I would truly like to get the .308 to work though. I like to be challenged, and getting a .308 to work without blowing a 10" exit hole seems like a good challenge to me!
If the 125 or 110 grainers won't shoot, than I always have my pile of lead and a selection of bullet molds. I don't see a coyote walking off a 200 grain hard cast unless I have poor shot placement, or a tough coyote.
This is kind of an experiment to see if the .308 will work, as I know there are far better suited rounds for the game at hand. If the .308 is deemed unacceptable, than I will most likely go with a 22-250 or .243. But since this rifle was a gift from my Father that he intended for me to use during deer season, it was purchased in a caliber best suited for the big whitetail that roam New England.
I would truly like to get the .308 to work though. I like to be challenged, and getting a .308 to work without blowing a 10" exit hole seems like a good challenge to me!
If the 125 or 110 grainers won't shoot, than I always have my pile of lead and a selection of bullet molds. I don't see a coyote walking off a 200 grain hard cast unless I have poor shot placement, or a tough coyote.
A 22-250 with 55gr hornady sp and some h380 has proven deadly in eastern South Dakota. That mix has proven itself for a few winters, its deadly and isn't hard on exit wounds. Later in the winter when they coats are heavy the 22 250 with the sp hits hard. The 204, 20tac, 223 gave some weak results last winter. Go with the 250 if its your cotyote gun.
Kyle
Kyle
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Kenny,
I agree with Kyle w/bullet and powder but remember w/h380 what might be a safe load in November might be dangerous in July very temp sensative. have seen blown primers, stuck bolts. I use 41gr in winter and 38gr in summer in one 250 the rem I use 38.5 in winter and 36.8 in summer as you can see be carefull.
Wayne.
I agree with Kyle w/bullet and powder but remember w/h380 what might be a safe load in November might be dangerous in July very temp sensative. have seen blown primers, stuck bolts. I use 41gr in winter and 38gr in summer in one 250 the rem I use 38.5 in winter and 36.8 in summer as you can see be carefull.
Wayne.
I actually bought a new Center Point 4-16x40 scope for this rifle a few days ago as well. I have to say I am impressed. I was a bit leary because of the price, ($65) but after putting some rounds downrange, it has far exceeded my expectations. It has an illuminated Mil-Dot reticle which is great at dusk, and the optics are surprisingly clear and it holds zero well and tracks decently. It will by no means compare to the top quality stuff most of you on here use, but I am going for a budget build and I had a gift card to Wally World and this scope seemed to fit the bill. And if it sucked I could return it.
It focuses well with the front mounted parallax adjustment ring out to 300 yards, (max distance where I was) and I could see my bullet holes at 100yds as well. It even came with some pretty rugged weaver style rings.
I know a lot of you will laugh at it, but I feel it will do it's job and at $65 for scope and rings it leaves me plenty of cash for another barrel should I need it.
It focuses well with the front mounted parallax adjustment ring out to 300 yards, (max distance where I was) and I could see my bullet holes at 100yds as well. It even came with some pretty rugged weaver style rings.
I know a lot of you will laugh at it, but I feel it will do it's job and at $65 for scope and rings it leaves me plenty of cash for another barrel should I need it.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
kenny,
Your putting it on a 200 stevens whos going to laugh and if they do who cares. I have one just like it w/plastic stock topped w a 4-12x40 simmons I use it for my pack around from vehicle to vehicle,4 wheelers ect. I shoot factory defects I buy from work for little of nothing. It works fine out to 300 or so.175 smks do a good job on coyotes but @ close range not much left of the pelts.Its not much but if it gets stolen it won't cost a arm and a leg to replace it!
Wayne.
Your putting it on a 200 stevens whos going to laugh and if they do who cares. I have one just like it w/plastic stock topped w a 4-12x40 simmons I use it for my pack around from vehicle to vehicle,4 wheelers ect. I shoot factory defects I buy from work for little of nothing. It works fine out to 300 or so.175 smks do a good job on coyotes but @ close range not much left of the pelts.Its not much but if it gets stolen it won't cost a arm and a leg to replace it!
Wayne.
A .243 Winchester can be a terror on fur. A .223 Remington with 36 grain Barnes Varmint Grenades is much easier on fur. A .308 Winchester should turn the fur inside-out, making what's left easy to tan. I hear fur buyers can tell the difference twixt .22 caliber and .24 caliber holes, with .22 caliber holes getting the best prices. My favorite .223 Remington load regarding coyotes for fur is a 36 grain Barnes Varmint Grenade out the muzzle at 3900 fps. 1-in-12" twisters can produce this result with ease. A .308 Winchester with 130 grain fare is not as accurate as 150 grain loads, so is not really a "varmint" load, unless one merely wants to blow the varmint into oblivion. Cliffy
also if you do switch to the 7-08 for coyotes there is no reason to switch back to the 308 for deer, 7-08 is a great deer caliber
7mm-08 is a GREAT Choice for Deer Hunting, but a viable Coyote load it is not: too much gusto to save pelts! Even handloading has its safe minimums. Trying to slow down bullets can cause detentation via too little powder. Never load lighter than published minimum loads in handloader manuals. I use Barnes #4 manual and Hornady manuals. Mostly I use my chronograph. Cliffy
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
I disagree w/cliffy It is not bullet diameter that tears up pelts its velocity.I have shot coyotes w/30-06 w/220gr.bullets with very little pelt damage,on the other hand I have shot dogs with 22-250 w/50 hp @ about 3800fps that turns them insideout. A 7mm-08 @ about 2700fps would make a excellent pelt round IMHO.
Wayne.
Wayne.
Thanks for the continuing responses, I appreciate them all.
I have decided I am going to use a smaller caliber for several reasons. The top reason's being less recoil, less pelt damage, cheaper components, and having a "walking" varmint rifle for my trip out to North Dakota that I take every year to see my wife's brother. I still plan to try the .308 as well, but want a smallbore to go with it.
I have also had a drastic budget increase as I hit a $1000 scratch ticket today, so plans have changed a bit to say the least!!! ;D You couldn't get the smile off my face with a machete right now!
How does everyone feel about a .22BR? I think I am going to order a chrome-moly Shilen barrel and thread and chamber it myself with the help of my father, as I work in a machine shop with him so all the equipment is right there for me to use. I plan to rent a reamer for this project, it seems to make sense as I am only chambering one barrel and I am unsure if it will be used again anytime soon. I am going to go over my budget thoroughly and see if I can squeeze in a stainless select match, but I am unsure if it will be possible.
But if Shilen has a long wait I think I may go with a Pac-Nor as I have one on my .222 that is very accurate. I can also get a super match from Pac-Nor that is contoured for less than a select match blank from Shilen.
I want to go with a 1-12 twist barrel as Shilen's site says it will work with bullets up to 63gr and most of what I want to use will be under that. And I really want to push 40grainers fast when I go to North Dakota to hammer prairie dogs. Will I have any chance of stability with either of Berger's 70gr offerings? If not it's no big deal.
By going with the 22BR I will be using the same bolt head so I can save money as opposed to buying one for use with a .223. It's a more efficient case than the 22-250 so it should be easier on the barrel and produce less heat as it will be burning less powder. It will also give me a rifle in a BR caliber, something I have wanted for a while now.
I am also going to do a few other upgrades as well, as I still have a bunch of room in my $1000 budget, a Timney or SSS trigger, recoil lug from Sharp Shooter Supply, Tactical bolt knob from SSS, SSS single shot feed ramp, along with the sling, shooting stick, Winchester Bipod and Krylon Ultra Flat Camo paint that I picked up from Wally World today.
I would also like to improve the stock as well and I really like the Cascade Classic from Richards Microfit, and it fits my budget as it has a list price of $79 in brown laminate. I have heard mixed results in reviews of their product, but I have a full woodshop to help with the finishing. If anyone has any input or knows of a comparably priced stock with similar features I am all ears.
I would like opinions on dies if possible, standard or arbor press as I have both. Also any special tools or accessories I will need or should have.
If I have missed anything important or there is something I need to know or if this won't work for some reason I am willing to listen and appreciate any advice you have to give.
Thanks a ton from the happiest guy in the world on this day!
Kenny
I have decided I am going to use a smaller caliber for several reasons. The top reason's being less recoil, less pelt damage, cheaper components, and having a "walking" varmint rifle for my trip out to North Dakota that I take every year to see my wife's brother. I still plan to try the .308 as well, but want a smallbore to go with it.
I have also had a drastic budget increase as I hit a $1000 scratch ticket today, so plans have changed a bit to say the least!!! ;D You couldn't get the smile off my face with a machete right now!
How does everyone feel about a .22BR? I think I am going to order a chrome-moly Shilen barrel and thread and chamber it myself with the help of my father, as I work in a machine shop with him so all the equipment is right there for me to use. I plan to rent a reamer for this project, it seems to make sense as I am only chambering one barrel and I am unsure if it will be used again anytime soon. I am going to go over my budget thoroughly and see if I can squeeze in a stainless select match, but I am unsure if it will be possible.
But if Shilen has a long wait I think I may go with a Pac-Nor as I have one on my .222 that is very accurate. I can also get a super match from Pac-Nor that is contoured for less than a select match blank from Shilen.
I want to go with a 1-12 twist barrel as Shilen's site says it will work with bullets up to 63gr and most of what I want to use will be under that. And I really want to push 40grainers fast when I go to North Dakota to hammer prairie dogs. Will I have any chance of stability with either of Berger's 70gr offerings? If not it's no big deal.
By going with the 22BR I will be using the same bolt head so I can save money as opposed to buying one for use with a .223. It's a more efficient case than the 22-250 so it should be easier on the barrel and produce less heat as it will be burning less powder. It will also give me a rifle in a BR caliber, something I have wanted for a while now.
I am also going to do a few other upgrades as well, as I still have a bunch of room in my $1000 budget, a Timney or SSS trigger, recoil lug from Sharp Shooter Supply, Tactical bolt knob from SSS, SSS single shot feed ramp, along with the sling, shooting stick, Winchester Bipod and Krylon Ultra Flat Camo paint that I picked up from Wally World today.
I would also like to improve the stock as well and I really like the Cascade Classic from Richards Microfit, and it fits my budget as it has a list price of $79 in brown laminate. I have heard mixed results in reviews of their product, but I have a full woodshop to help with the finishing. If anyone has any input or knows of a comparably priced stock with similar features I am all ears.
I would like opinions on dies if possible, standard or arbor press as I have both. Also any special tools or accessories I will need or should have.
If I have missed anything important or there is something I need to know or if this won't work for some reason I am willing to listen and appreciate any advice you have to give.
Thanks a ton from the happiest guy in the world on this day!
Kenny
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Hey Kenny thats great,keep us updated from time to time on your new build. Building this new rifle with your father sounds exciting,I bet he is excited as you are.In my opinion any rifle can take dogs you will just have to load for the aplication,and most of all have fun and be safe.
Wayne.
Wayne.
Thanks Wayne, I am so pumped up right now it's not right. I never gamble, but decided to grab a ticket as my buddy got one in front of me in line. Little did either of us know I was about to be $1000 richer!
I have "assembled" another Steven's which is my .222 bench rig, but only did a little truing on the action and bought a pre-fit barrel.
This time I have the confidence to do a lot more, as Dad taught me a lot when we built my brother's Remmy. He did all the set-up while explaining everything he did, and I made most of the cuts while he supervised. I could probably get by going alone, but I still want his guidance and to be able to say I built it with my Dad.
He isn't a gunsmith, but he still knows a lot about machining. And like he said to me, "Machining dead-nuts true is the same on a rifle as it is on anything."
I will update as I get moving. I plan on building a hybrid hunting/varmint rig that will hopefully do just as well in the woods on deer as it will on PD's and coyotes when the time comes. I plan to use a medium varmint contour barrel in an aftermarket stock when the 22BR is used, and use the factory stock with the .308 barrel so I don't have a huge gap between the stock and barrel. I will likely only use the .308 during deer season and only have to switch it around once or twice a year.
I have "assembled" another Steven's which is my .222 bench rig, but only did a little truing on the action and bought a pre-fit barrel.
This time I have the confidence to do a lot more, as Dad taught me a lot when we built my brother's Remmy. He did all the set-up while explaining everything he did, and I made most of the cuts while he supervised. I could probably get by going alone, but I still want his guidance and to be able to say I built it with my Dad.
He isn't a gunsmith, but he still knows a lot about machining. And like he said to me, "Machining dead-nuts true is the same on a rifle as it is on anything."
I will update as I get moving. I plan on building a hybrid hunting/varmint rig that will hopefully do just as well in the woods on deer as it will on PD's and coyotes when the time comes. I plan to use a medium varmint contour barrel in an aftermarket stock when the 22BR is used, and use the factory stock with the .308 barrel so I don't have a huge gap between the stock and barrel. I will likely only use the .308 during deer season and only have to switch it around once or twice a year.
It's funny as yesterday I was planning on trying to throw something together for next to nothing just to make it into the woods, and today I have a $1000 budget to build a dual purpose rifle.
Maybe I should try to pick up a Steven's action from Jim Briggs so I don't have to be swapping stuff around and just have 2 rifles?
I am so damn revved up that I am going in 3 directions at once. I know what I want but need to calm down and figure out how to get it.
Now to wait for Monday so I can start ordering some parts!
(sorry, I have never won anything before and I finally convinced my Dad to build another rifle with me so I am super excited.)
Maybe I should try to pick up a Steven's action from Jim Briggs so I don't have to be swapping stuff around and just have 2 rifles?
I am so damn revved up that I am going in 3 directions at once. I know what I want but need to calm down and figure out how to get it.
Now to wait for Monday so I can start ordering some parts!
(sorry, I have never won anything before and I finally convinced my Dad to build another rifle with me so I am super excited.)
Kenny,
I think you would really like a 22br. I had a 22-250 with a 1:8 twist built 4 years ago to shoot long range pds with 80gr bullets and it worked well except it needed set back at about 800 rnds. I set it back to a 22br and am really happy with it. I shoots 80SMK's well but shoots 82 Bergers great(1/2 to 3/4 in at 300yds). I had some 55gr Blitz King's and tried them and they shot much better than I thought they would, 1/4 in at over 3700 fps, so you would have a pretty good long range and short range rifle all in one. After seeing what a 22br can do I'll never have another 22-250. Good luck with your project.
John
I think you would really like a 22br. I had a 22-250 with a 1:8 twist built 4 years ago to shoot long range pds with 80gr bullets and it worked well except it needed set back at about 800 rnds. I set it back to a 22br and am really happy with it. I shoots 80SMK's well but shoots 82 Bergers great(1/2 to 3/4 in at 300yds). I had some 55gr Blitz King's and tried them and they shot much better than I thought they would, 1/4 in at over 3700 fps, so you would have a pretty good long range and short range rifle all in one. After seeing what a 22br can do I'll never have another 22-250. Good luck with your project.
John
Re: Suggestions for coyote caliber
So I have changed things a bit today. I got a call from my buddy at the local shop who I had contacted about trying to find a used SA Savage. He got a Savage pre-accutrigger model 10 .243 in trade yesterday and offered it to me for what he had in it, which was next to nothing, since he owes me a favor for fixing his lawn tractor. So this is now the basis for my build and will leave my Steven's as is. But I now have a .243 barrel for the Steven's as well, so it's a double win.
It has the old blocky wood stock on it, but it's still better than the Steven's jello stock, so I will open the barrel channel, paint it camo, bed it and run it. I will probably do a little shaping on it, but with it's reasonably wide flat fore end it should do OK in a rest for PD's, and still be tolerable for offhand as well. And since it cost me about what a new stock would run, I don't think I did too bad.
I also ordered a Shilen HV 1-12 30" SS barrel from a retailer today as well, and it should be here in a few weeks at most. The trigger was also ordered, a Rifle Basix Sav-2 that is adjustable from 4oz to 3lbs. I am going on the cheap and will make my own recoil lug from stainless so as to save a bit of cash.
This is coming together a lot quicker than I had expected, and should turn out to be a decent rig. I have been taking some before pics, and will post a few before and afters when I complete the build. It won't be quite the same as the high end stuff like what is in the "Pride and Joy" section, but I will have built it with my Dad, and that pride enough for me.
So I have changed things a bit today. I got a call from my buddy at the local shop who I had contacted about trying to find a used SA Savage. He got a Savage pre-accutrigger model 10 .243 in trade yesterday and offered it to me for what he had in it, which was next to nothing, since he owes me a favor for fixing his lawn tractor. So this is now the basis for my build and will leave my Steven's as is. But I now have a .243 barrel for the Steven's as well, so it's a double win.
It has the old blocky wood stock on it, but it's still better than the Steven's jello stock, so I will open the barrel channel, paint it camo, bed it and run it. I will probably do a little shaping on it, but with it's reasonably wide flat fore end it should do OK in a rest for PD's, and still be tolerable for offhand as well. And since it cost me about what a new stock would run, I don't think I did too bad.
I also ordered a Shilen HV 1-12 30" SS barrel from a retailer today as well, and it should be here in a few weeks at most. The trigger was also ordered, a Rifle Basix Sav-2 that is adjustable from 4oz to 3lbs. I am going on the cheap and will make my own recoil lug from stainless so as to save a bit of cash.
This is coming together a lot quicker than I had expected, and should turn out to be a decent rig. I have been taking some before pics, and will post a few before and afters when I complete the build. It won't be quite the same as the high end stuff like what is in the "Pride and Joy" section, but I will have built it with my Dad, and that pride enough for me.
Check the market value - coyote hides aren't worth all that much anymore... Shoot them with whatever you've got in your hands and save a few deer!
.25-06 and 115 Berger VLD does a fine job. You really don't want to see the other side of the 'yote:
And here's a nice one, that I had made into a rug. Nose to tip of tail is 60" - big coyote for here:
Sometimes the holes can be stitched up. One approach is to use a .204 Ruger - bullet goes in, explodes inside, kills the coyote and doesn't exit... I'm still evaluating that approach, the .204 sure is a flat shooting rascal!
Oh, with the .308 Win, I use: 110 Sierras, 125 Noslers, 130 Speer hollow points... Or whatever I've got in the magazine!
Good luck. Go shoot a coyote! Guy
.25-06 and 115 Berger VLD does a fine job. You really don't want to see the other side of the 'yote:
And here's a nice one, that I had made into a rug. Nose to tip of tail is 60" - big coyote for here:
Sometimes the holes can be stitched up. One approach is to use a .204 Ruger - bullet goes in, explodes inside, kills the coyote and doesn't exit... I'm still evaluating that approach, the .204 sure is a flat shooting rascal!
Oh, with the .308 Win, I use: 110 Sierras, 125 Noslers, 130 Speer hollow points... Or whatever I've got in the magazine!
Good luck. Go shoot a coyote! Guy
Guy, that's a beautiful Coyote rug you have! Really nice color.
I am not keeping the hides for myself or even selling them. They are going to be given to my buddy that actually convinced me to give coyote a shot. He used to do some taxidermy as a hobby and a way to make some extra money, and still does a few jobs for friends mounting, tanning and some leather work as well. He has a few guys that give him deer skins, but nobody that he knows hunts coyotes except for himself. He makes all kinds of stuff, rugs, gloves, hats, and other assorted leather work. He just does it to keep busy as he is in his 70's and his wife has passed. But he seems to take a lot of pelts every year and he doesn't seem to make as much stuff as he used to, so I don't know if he is stock piling them or if he has been selling them lately to be honest.
He didn't seem too impressed when I mentioned my plan to use a .308, so I figured I could use a small bore that I could actually carry through the woods. And I could use a more powerful varmint rig as well.
I am not keeping the hides for myself or even selling them. They are going to be given to my buddy that actually convinced me to give coyote a shot. He used to do some taxidermy as a hobby and a way to make some extra money, and still does a few jobs for friends mounting, tanning and some leather work as well. He has a few guys that give him deer skins, but nobody that he knows hunts coyotes except for himself. He makes all kinds of stuff, rugs, gloves, hats, and other assorted leather work. He just does it to keep busy as he is in his 70's and his wife has passed. But he seems to take a lot of pelts every year and he doesn't seem to make as much stuff as he used to, so I don't know if he is stock piling them or if he has been selling them lately to be honest.
He didn't seem too impressed when I mentioned my plan to use a .308, so I figured I could use a small bore that I could actually carry through the woods. And I could use a more powerful varmint rig as well.
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