Well the luck I'm having isn't the greatest lately. Just got back from the range and went to resize and deprime my cases but only lubed about 20. I put them right by my unlubed ones and must have grabbed the wrong one. It's stuck. The die is a fl redding bushing die in 6x47, lapua. I was able to get the rod and expander out but the bushing is still in. Any way to get this out without buying or waiting for a stuck case removal tool?
Stuck case, PLEASE HELP!
- Thread starter Josh11
- Start date
BigDMT
First spray the piss out of it every way you can with WD 40. Then take the top off the die with it still seated firmly in the press. Get a long pin or perhaps a torx head screw driver, basically something with a a flat end and as big as possible to fit down the case mouth. Then whack it multiple times with medium strength swings. Don't beat on it as hard as you can or you may break through the bottom of the case. As it starts moving, hit it with more WD40 from the top and continue hitting it til it comes out.
Or you could buy a stuck case removal kit for about $20, but I've never used one because that method always worked for me. Good luck
PS: if you happen to be using a forster co-ax press, or some custom aluminum frame press, disregard all of what I said because you may damage the press. If using a standard cast iron press where the dies thread in, then swing away. They make a decent vise/anvil for the hammer and pin method
Or you could buy a stuck case removal kit for about $20, but I've never used one because that method always worked for me. Good luck
PS: if you happen to be using a forster co-ax press, or some custom aluminum frame press, disregard all of what I said because you may damage the press. If using a standard cast iron press where the dies thread in, then swing away. They make a decent vise/anvil for the hammer and pin method
+1 for DMT I have done the same thing before and had no problems getting it out. Kroil works good too.
I've been able to remove stuck cases by taking the die out of the press and drilling the primer pocket hole out. Then finding a wood screw/bolt that is a little bigger diameter than the primer pocket hole. I then put the die in the press from the bottom up instead of top down. I put about 3 stiff washers on the screw bolt that have a larger outside diameter than the press 7/8x14 hole and screw it into the primer pocket hole. As it gets tighter it will pull the stuck case loose. A good dose of penetrating oil helps too.
BigDMT
Josh11 said:
Should still be able to knock it out with the expander ball in there. If you bend the decapping pin, every redding die set should have an extra. It's a mistake that may cause damage.
Sometimes if the case rim is still sticking out enough, you can grab onto it with a large pair of vise grips and try to twist it out while applying downward pressure by tapping on the side of the vise grip pliers lightly with a hammer. Twist and hit at the same time.Make sure you get a really good bite or it will slip on the brass easily as it strips it out.
timeout
Silver $$ Contributor
I haven't had this happen in about 40 years, but seems to me that I drilled and tapped the primer pocket, then installed a screw and washer to pull the case out. You will need to use a screw size large enough, and of high strength. Fine threads are also a plus. The punch method will probably work, however with the expander inside, you may be purchasing one of those when you're through.
Erik Cortina
Team Lapua Brux Borden Captain
Or you could just buy the tool made to remove the case.
If you have a pin gauge or a drillbit that is the same size as the ID of the neck on the die or the bushing it will tap it right out when you drop it in on top of the case mouth.
I hate to bring this up, but the reference above to use "plenty of WD-40" is not really correct. Sure, it will help a bit, but WD-40 is a water dispersant, hence the "WD" in the name.
What would work way better would be a penetrating oil such as the Kroil in most reloader's tool box.
What would work way better would be a penetrating oil such as the Kroil in most reloader's tool box.
BigDMT said:PS: if you happen to be using a forster co-ax press, or some custom aluminum frame press, disregard all of what I said because you may damage the press. If using a standard cast iron press where the dies thread in, then swing away. They make a decent vise/anvil for the hammer and pin method
What? The highly touted, high tech 21st century built like tank .....Forester Co-ax potentially damaged by a little pounding from a mallet? ....Say it ain't so.
the stuk case remval tool is the best way to do it without damaging anything in your "case" ....and you dont have to buy one or wait ...of course you need a 1/4-20 tap and the correct # 7 drill bit...any 1/4 -20 bolt that is long enuff ( usually 1-1/2") and for the bo'dy of the removal tool ..use a socket out of your tool set and a washer...very simple and most folks or their neighbor/buddie have the stuff to do it ,,so no waiting!!...I like to be able to fix things with simple tools/parts that are around the house/workshop in a pinch,,,.Roger
BigDMT
LHSmith said:BigDMT said:PS: if you happen to be using a forster co-ax press, or some custom aluminum frame press, disregard all of what I said because you may damage the press. If using a standard cast iron press where the dies thread in, then swing away. They make a decent vise/anvil for the hammer and pin method
What? The highly touted, high tech 21st century built like tank .....Forester Co-ax potentially damaged by a little pounding from a mallet? ....Say it ain't so.
Oh the forster is tough, but if a person were to have a missed swing and hit the primer seating assembly with a steel hammer, I'm not sure if that would be too good.
Seems this site sure does have its fair share of smart*** mouths here lately... :-\
Id be willing to bet that internet bravery and smart talk does not exist when face to face.
BigDMT
LHSmith said:
Sorry LH. Sometimes I have trouble determining true meanings in writing. No hard feelings I hope. Take care.
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