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Stock help

Snag a piece of 1/2X6x36 aluminum. D/T holes wherever. The difficulty in explaining is that you will have to control at least two axis in the fixturing.

Imagine a bolt down through an action hole... that's an easy place for the rear "pivot". Set Z axis with whatever convenient.

You'll have 2 options on this fixture plate when running across a spindle moulder* . You can use a rub collar on the spindle,is how curves are normally done.... or use a fence to index off of. Your question is tough because,well money. That piece of aluminum plate will come in handy for a variety of uses.... when you get a mill.

Showing up at a cabinet shop,or job shop with stock in hand....well,bust out your wallet. Show up with your stock on a plate? Take about 15 minutes.... and they certainly don't want the fixture.

*Spindle moulder... shaper,router,or mill. Any piece of equipment with a spindle,usually referenced as a vertical. Think vert vs horizontal mill... in the woodshop they're almost always verts.

Screenshot_20231128-135627_Gallery.jpg
 
I'd say you could use the above fixture for barrel inletting on a mill...and you can.

But you'll be miles ahead in the fast lane with a piece of channel. The trick is that it uses opposing jack screws to set taper. And still use the action screw hole for reference.
 
I'd be happy to run down the saw if you want to ship it but I'm sure someone local can run it down quickly so minor sanding is left
 
Draw knife, jack plane, files, and sandpaper will get that done in less time than we have all spent typing about it. The laminated wood make it easy to be consistent. Sometimes you just need to get to work.
I get this with junior techs at work all the time. They’ll spend 30 minutes building a jig to push a single odd part though the bandsaw when 5 minutes of muscle with the hacksaw would yield the same result with no jig needed and no risk of losing appendages to a bandsaw.
 
Bradley, If you look at the 2nd picture in my post above (upside down stock) - that stock was the same width all the way back to the front of the trigger guard. I used a palm sander with the various grits to taper it up to the mid point of the stock. Removed a ton of material from the grip area as well. think you will be surprised at how soft that laminated stock is when the 40-60 grit orbital sander hits it. You just have to vary it around your profile until you get it to your liking. Then you can start moving to the very fine grades and you are ready to spray with poly . You can get 2K rattle can and look pretty damn good or you can send to our resident paint sniffer BC'z and it will look like it was built that way!!!!!!!!! If I was heading to Tulsa soon I would pick it up and do it for you, but I won't be up that way till probably April - from Lawton.
stan

ps- practice on a 2x4 lol
 
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4.5” Angle grinder. Buy this 5” flapper. Lowe’s has these. Remove the guard. Hand craft / remove the material you want off. Don’t waste time with a 4.5” disc of another method. I use these all the time.
Switch to higher grit flapper then complete with sander. IMG_1232.jpg
 
Leave the tape on it and send it over. I’ll cut it for you. Shipping is going to cost, tho. Probably $45 each way..
Josh
 
What your going to do with that stock is similar to a choate stock. That's a good shape shoots well and tracks wicked as a hunting stock or ftr setup
 

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