Stain and Clear coat = Possible

[DMC]

Hello All
Just wanted to check to see if anyone has used a stain/clearcoat on a laminate stock, i have a plain laminated stock, id like to stain to a nicer darker color, then clear coat, only catch is the stock has been sealed already, so i was wondering if a stain could still be applied first or combined with a clear coat

Thanks in advance

DMC

 

[NorCalMikie]

I've got one that had been finished by me with True Oil.
Got tired of looking at it and wanted something a little different.
The True Oil acted like a sealer.
Sanded it down and shot it with Automotive Clear.
Couldn't believe how the colors popped out after the clear.
You may be surprised how much of a difference the clear can make on the Laminated wood.
Thinking back, I did two that way and they both came out beautiful. 8)

 

[Preacher]

It will be tough to stain a laminated stock with all the adhesives that are used to bond the pieces together.
Under pressure it works into the wood like a sealer, and stains will not penetrate it very well for any length of time..
Do what Mikie said, you'll be surprised at the outcome..

 

[DMC]

Thanks Preacher and NorCalMikie
I somehow forgot to include a photo in the original post, its a bit hard to see, but wanted to show the sealer.
I'll sand this down and try True Oil thanks to NorCalMikie's suggestion, and see what it looks like, if i botch it, i guess
i can always paint it !

Thanks Again
DMC

 

[NorCalMikie]

If the laminated wood has already been sealed, sand it and shoot it. Don't add anything else.
I just want to be sure you understood that the True Oil finish was on and had been for a couple of years "before" I decided to sand it down and shoot it with the Automotive Clear.
Like I had mentioned, the True oil acted like a sealer so it didn't take much Clear to bring out the colors. A far as a stain sinking into the laminated wood, probably won't go too deep. Still should get some color. A color tinted stain should get the job done.
And like you said, you can always paint it.
What really surprised me was the colors that were brought out just by shooting it with clear. Didn't even know it could look that good. 8)

 

[spitfire_er]

Tru Oil can change the true color of the wood. I quit using it after it turned one of my black/grey lams green. Clear really shows the true color of the wood and shouldn't mess with it.

As far as staining the laminated stock, sometimes if there is a small void that was filled by the adhesive it will not take stain ether and might mess up an otherwise uniform looking piece of wood.

 

[Preacher]

Clear coat that stock in the photo, and it will blow your mind color wise !!!!

 

[gotcha]

DMC, Are you sure this stock has been sealed? The colors are awfully light to have been sealed. Try wetting an area of the stock w/ tap water & a sponge. If it hasn't been sealed the stock will darken as though it has been clear coated. The grain will also rise & surface will become fuzzy between laminates. I once bought a laminate that was supposedly sealed. The above test proved it hadn't been. Just trying to save you some grief. If the grain rises it can easily be corrected w/ 350 grit paper (wet sand) or 0000 steel wool (degreased)

 

[jonbearman]

If you use an alcohol based aniline stain after you sand off the original finish,you will be surprized at how much you can change the color.

 

[Valar]

I have stained laminated stocks with excellent results! I sand out with 400 then apply water to raise the grain. Resand with 400 and work down to 600 grit. You want all sanding done before the stain goes on. After applying stain you may have to experment. Let set five min and then wipe away excess. If you want it darker apply again and let sit a while longer to soak in. after final excess wipe down you Must let dry at least a full 24 hours before clear coat. If you do not small spots of stain will float into the clear coat and you will have a real job on your hands. For high gloss I use Auto motive clear coat. For vintage look I prefer tru oil in a two part process. Good luck.

 

[JRS]

If you decide to start sanding, take it easy. You don't want to start rounding off the sharp edges and distorting the the looks by removing too much material.

 

[david12601]

I have used products from a company called Deft....that is the same product Cooper arms uses .....easy to use and very forgiving if you make a mistake good luck

 

[letronshootit]

Deft is a lacquer that has been around for decades in the wood finish world, I have used it on furniture in the past. It is very odorous, needs good ventilation. It makes a nice finish. Tru-oil is great on walnut stocks hand applied wet sanded between re-coats which is a few hours. Not for laminates though...

 

[NorCalMikie]

And True Oil also has a slight tint to it so the wood will come out darker. Good for Walnut stocks. Auto Clear works best for laminates.

 

[Valar]

If you are sanding with 400 and 600 normally automotive grit finishes, you would have to sand for days to oversand! Tru oil as i said is a great vintage look.

 

[Preacher]

The only problems encountered with Deft or True oil is the chance of turning yellow over time..

 

[bricktop]

If you are recoating with a brush-on or spray-gun method (like HVLP), you can add trans-tint to most finishes to get whatever final color adjustment you want. It would probably have colored the sanded-down laminate well too when used before any top-coating finish (just mixed with water or solvent). I recently used the medium-brown with a water-base to color a birch stock before 10 or so coats of tru-oil. Typically birch wont take a stain or darken much with oil, but this turned out fantastic.