Auto clear coat stock finishing questions

[jaredc]

I have ordered a Richard’s 001 stock unfinished in green mt camo color. I have never finished a stock so I was hoping to get some input to make sure I am on the right track. From what I have read it sounds like the automotive clear coat is the best way to go and I have a friend who paints cars and he is willing to put the finish on for me. He has never put a clear coat on a stock either. So, here are some questions I have:

-What grit of sandpaper should I use before I put the clear coat on?

-I don’t plan to use any stain before the clear coat on. Does this sound right if I am looking for a finish that looks like the one in this picture? http://www.richardscustomrifles.com/39.jpg

-I am going to have my friend spray a matte color clear coat. Is that all I need to do or do most people buff the finish after spraying?


Any advice would be great.
Thanks

 

[fishnfst]

Bump it up for wanting to know the answer as well.. I just received my Tracker st1000l and BIll had recommended I use automotive dupont clear coat on it. He had told me that he normally shoots just one coat for the action area and barrel channel and then puts five or six coats onto the rest of the stock.... I will let you know how it turns out and how many coats I put....

 

[jb1000br]

Go down to 600

just did my gelcoat mcmillan this way and it turned out perfect...looks like a shiny lollipop -- 3 coats on the gelcoat, probably 5-6 on wood.

cheers,
JB :thumb:

 

[MikeWilkerson]

I use automotive clear coat as well. What I usually do is spray the first few coats on real heavy and I allow the paint to do what it wants as far as run, and orange peel. Be very careful for fish eyes cause they are very hard to remove after they form. I use a fast hardener that drys dust free within very quickly not sure on the actual time and let cure over night, next I wet sand the stock to make sure all voids are filled and to get a flat look on the stock. If I achieve this after the first few coats are done then I spray several lite coats on to get the nice shiny look. If by some chance you have to wet sand after the second time of coating you can wet sand the stock down and by using rubbing compound you can bring it all back to a shine,lot a work and wouldn't recommend doing it this way). If any shaping is needed I start with 150 after shaping the stock,usually bill's don't need much except the rear tang area on Remington's) then go all the way down to 320 and blow the stock of real good with compressed air and shoot. 320 maybe be a little finer than needed but its just the way I do it. There is a man on the board I think he goes by Kav that does alot of this and used to work,if I understood him right)as a auto painter and very well may still be

 

[jaredc]

I received my stock a few weeks ago and I thought I would give an update,I sure could have used this info a couple of months ago). The stock from Richard's came ruff cut but the sanding was easy with a palm sander. I didn't realize that the stock would come without the bolt slot and ejector port cut, but I was able to cut these out with a dremmel tool and they tunned out really well. after sanding down to 600 grit I had a friend spray the stock with a matte automotive clear coat. He put four coats on. The finish looked really good but it had a slight texture so I wet sanded the stock down with 2000 grit sandpaper. Now the stock looks like glass. I seriously can't imagine anything smoother. I am really satisfied with how the stock tunned out. I posted this in case anyone out there is considering trying this themselves and would like some input. If you have questions or would like pictures just ask...

 

[KLENCHBLAIZE]

Get it done PROFESSIONALLY is my only advice!!

Klenchblaize