4xforfun said:Sheldon N said:No connection between pressure and split necks? I thought that was one of the potential indicators.
No connection.
Thanks, appreciate the clarification.
4xforfun said:Sheldon N said:No connection between pressure and split necks? I thought that was one of the potential indicators.
No connection.
You stated the reamer neck size was . .3715 using that number for a reference . How hard is it to under stand busing size subtracted from .3715 will tell you the number on how much your working the brass.4xforfun said:savagedasher said:The question is then the brass your using how much are you working it . Nothing else matters4xforfun said:Nothing assumed here. I have the reamer in my hand. My measurments are EXACTLY the same as on the print.
Reamer.... .3715 neck, .242 freebore, 1.30 degree lead
loaded round neck diameter.... .366.
Fired round neck diameter.... .370
loaded round OAL.... 4.08"
Now, that is a little more neck clearance (.0055) than I usually run (.003), but the reamer was made based on the Rem 300 RUM brass..the only brass available at the time. The Bertrom brass is a touch thinner.
91.5 is NOT A "PIPE BOMB" !! It ( the load and the velocity) is right in there with every other edge shooter's loads that I have ever heard from. Gun (BAT "M") 30" Brux was taken to 95 grains before any PSI signs appeared. With my Edge I ended up using the exact same load with REM brass and got 7 firings on the brass. The PP's are just now starting to get a little loose.
Larry
The numbers above tell you EXACTLY how much I am working the brass. I guess the number I omitted is the sized case neck diameter...... .364. I am using a .367 bushing to get this, which makes no sense at all to me. But I also have a .365 and a .364 bushing, and the FELT neck tension on the press handle when seating a bullet is a whole lot more with the smaller bushings. This gave me some verticle at 1000+ yards. The .366 bushing took care of most of the verticle. I know that this is not very "scientific", but feel is the only test method I have.
savagedasher said:You stated the reamer neck size was . .3715 using that number for a reference . How hard is it to under stand busing size subtracted from .3715 will tell you the number on how much your working the brass.4xforfun said:savagedasher said:The question is then the brass your using how much are you working it . Nothing else matters4xforfun said:Nothing assumed here. I have the reamer in my hand. My measurments are EXACTLY the same as on the print.
Reamer.... .3715 neck, .242 freebore, 1.30 degree lead
loaded round neck diameter.... .366.
Fired round neck diameter.... .370
loaded round OAL.... 4.08"
Now, that is a little more neck clearance (.0055) than I usually run (.003), but the reamer was made based on the Rem 300 RUM brass..the only brass available at the time. The Bertrom brass is a touch thinner.
91.5 is NOT A "PIPE BOMB" !! It ( the load and the velocity) is right in there with every other edge shooter's loads that I have ever heard from. Gun (BAT "M") 30" Brux was taken to 95 grains before any PSI signs appeared. With my Edge I ended up using the exact same load with REM brass and got 7 firings on the brass. The PP's are just now starting to get a little loose.
Larry
The numbers above tell you EXACTLY how much I am working the brass. I guess the number I omitted is the sized case neck diameter...... .364. I am using a .367 bushing to get this, which makes no sense at all to me. But I also have a .365 and a .364 bushing, and the FELT neck tension on the press handle when seating a bullet is a whole lot more with the smaller bushings. This gave me some verticle at 1000+ yards. The .366 bushing took care of most of the verticle. I know that this is not very "scientific", but feel is the only test method I have.
Just because you have a reamer with that neck size doesn't mean the chamber is that. WHAT is the neck size of a fired brass ? Take that number and subtract .364 from it and that will give you the answer . Larry
4xforfun said:You need to re read my posts. I stated the fired neck diameter is .370. That is .0015 spring back from the chamber and .006 bigger than sized brass. Like I said, what I don't understand is how I can size the brass with a .366 bushing and come away with brass that measures .366 after sizing.
Guy read what you just wrote. The 366 bushing sized the case one thousand smaller. the .365 comparing the numbers would make the neck .364 Dusty told you the reamer was a minimum . Knowing that just for a reference the neck in the chamber could be very easy one thousand bigger.4xforfun said:I just ran another 6 brass through the die with the .366 bushing. Looks like we are just shy of .365 neck diameter. Still a full point UNDER what is printed on the bushing. ??
savagedasher said:Guy read what you just wrote. The 366 bushing sized the case one thousand smaller. the .365 comparing the numbers would make the neck .364 Dusty told you the reamer was a minimum . Knowing that just for a reference the neck in the chamber could be very easy one thousand bigger.4xforfun said:I just ran another 6 brass through the die with the .366 bushing. Looks like we are just shy of .365 neck diameter. Still a full point UNDER what is printed on the bushing. ??
.371
- 364
= .007 That can be excessive expansion for the brass you are using.
Larry
Excessive for a tight chamber but don't factory chambers approach that number and we don't see 50% neck splits after 1 firing? Just saying...savagedasher said:Guy read what you just wrote. The 366 bushing sized the case one thousand smaller. the .365 comparing the numbers would make the neck .364 Dusty told you the reamer was a minimum . Knowing that just for a reference the neck in the chamber could be very easy one thousand bigger.4xforfun said:I just ran another 6 brass through the die with the .366 bushing. Looks like we are just shy of .365 neck diameter. Still a full point UNDER what is printed on the bushing. ??
.371
- 364
= .007 That can be excessive expansion for the brass you are using.
Larry
jlow said:Excessive for a tight chamber but don't factory chambers approach that number and we don't see 50% neck splits after 1 firing? Just saying...savagedasher said:Guy read what you just wrote. The 366 bushing sized the case one thousand smaller. the .365 comparing the numbers would make the neck .364 Dusty told you the reamer was a minimum . Knowing that just for a reference the neck in the chamber could be very easy one thousand bigger.4xforfun said:I just ran another 6 brass through the die with the .366 bushing. Looks like we are just shy of .365 neck diameter. Still a full point UNDER what is printed on the bushing. ??
.371
- 364
= .007 That can be excessive expansion for the brass you are using.
Larry
Not at all... I said in reply #21 which you have ignored...4xforfun said:jlow said:Excessive for a tight chamber but don't factory chambers approach that number and we don't see 50% neck splits after 1 firing? Just saying...savagedasher said:Guy read what you just wrote. The 366 bushing sized the case one thousand smaller. the .365 comparing the numbers would make the neck .364 Dusty told you the reamer was a minimum . Knowing that just for a reference the neck in the chamber could be very easy one thousand bigger.4xforfun said:I just ran another 6 brass through the die with the .366 bushing. Looks like we are just shy of .365 neck diameter. Still a full point UNDER what is printed on the bushing. ??
.371
- 364
= .007 That can be excessive expansion for the brass you are using.
Larry
OK...so this brings us full circle. Annealing brass to avoid split necks due to excessive work hardening of the brass.
Just sayin... ;D
Tod
Ledd Slinger said:So now that we are back to square one, read this article. If you dont reach the right temp, then you are just wasting your time. But dont take it from me, below is a link to a good article on annealing. According to this article, using your 600 degree tempilaq isnt allowing the brass to get hot enough. He also mentions the dark room method of determining temp, which I know works. I'll never use tempilaq.
http://www.annealingmachines.com/how-to-anneal.html
jlow said:Ledd Slinger said:So now that we are back to square one, read this article. If you dont reach the right temp, then you are just wasting your time. But dont take it from me, below is a link to a good article on annealing. According to this article, using your 600 degree tempilaq isnt allowing the brass to get hot enough. He also mentions the dark room method of determining temp, which I know works. I'll never use tempilaq.
http://www.annealingmachines.com/how-to-anneal.html
It’s not the OP annealing. Even if you are 100% right and the OP did not anneal his brass, he has wasted his time but that is NOT going to cause 50% of his brass to split after 1 firing. The worst thing that would happen is he over anneals and they become too soft. Trust me, I have done tens of thousands.