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Spar marine varnish, polyurethane or ???

TAJ45

Silver $$ Contributor
My 44 yo bench top, made while in AF, has been sanded. Was going to paint again but with putting together the reloading bunker for what I hope is the last time, am considering alternatives.

I have two solid core doors in place on drawer stacks with one in reasonably nice shape, the other a bit less attractive. What I have for the old 3/4" plywood bench top is a nice sheet of cab't grade 3/4", raw.

Just looking for durability for my "dream bunker". I am a function, not form kinda guy. Ease of application is a desired bonus. Suggestions please.
 
I use a 50/50 solution of spar varnish and mineral spirits then use a clean cloth as an applicator. No brush marks but takes about 8 coats to give a nice rich finish. Turns out hard as hell and tough.
 
Having spent way too much time taking care of teak trim on a boat for 25 years I would go with 1) Awl-grip two part (most expensive but you will never do it again 2) varnish applied in multiple light coats sanding between each 3) plain teak oil finish but be prepared to clean solvent and oil spills quickly. Obviously #3 is a last choice.
 
I love SPAR.. use it for all kinds of projects. But for my loading bench I replaced my wood top with a cheap counter top from Home Depot..
 
My favorite shop table top is a 1/4" sheet of tempered Masonite fastened over a sturdy wooden sub base with counter sunk wood screws. I put on several coats of floor wax which makes a great working surface. When it wears out after many years, it can be replaced. Unfortunately 1/4" Masonite is getting hard to find, but 1/8" is still available for around ten bucks for a full sheet.
 
zillla said:
I love SPAR.. use it for all kinds of projects. But for my loading bench I replaced my wood top with a cheap counter top from Home Depot..
Click to expand...
I also went to home depot and bought one of there cheap counter tops for my bench.
 
Not trying to hijack thread, but West System epoxy or similar products is maximum simplicity and levels perfect. I seal everything on boats with it. When UV protection was needed, put spar varnish over it.
 
I don't think you need spar for inside use. It is meant to protect from uv rays. What I do for inside and mostly inside projects is I put several coats of wood Sheen on then several coats of Tungeoil. Sand with steel wool in between coats and follow directions on the products. This will give you a very nice finish and it can take some outside use, You can see how it looks if you go to the rimfire topics and look at the old rem in did awhile back. PM me if you have any questions
 
Couple coats poly, sand between coats lightly. I like matte or semi gloss. I don't feel there is any reason to spend more time or money. Will hold up fine
 
"My favorite shop table top is a 1/4" sheet of tempered Masonite fastened over a sturdy wooden sub base with counter sunk wood screws."

This is my favorite also for anything other than welding or woodworking. Easy to clean and can stand some heavy work if need be. One of my benches done this way is 56 years old and still in good shape after many projects including quite a few motorcycle engine rebuilds. The other bench is 35 years old and has been dedicated to reloading and gun maintenance other than cleaning.

The tempered variety of Masonite doesn't scratch or readily absorb solvents, avoid the un-tempered type.
 
I like the roll on epoxy coatings for bench tops. They are usually used as a refinish product or what have you for ugly colored formica. It is near the same as the stuff used for garage floors. Bedliner without the chips works very well also.
 
Ultra-glo or EX-74 epoxy are both designed for table tops and such. Only difference between them is EX-74 has UV inhibitors in it, which if your bench gets any direct sunlight through a window, it will discolor. Self leveling, clear, tough. But, with any epoxy coating be sure your humidity is below 50% or it will cure a chalky white.

-Alexander
 
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