So if you were starting to precision reload from scratch...

[Mozella]

Thanks for your response. I have a Caldwell chrono now. Seems to be ok. Clueless if it's accurate enough for this application or if I need to do something else in that area as well. I'm quite honestly a bit overwhelmed when I add up what is needed not to mention the learning curve.

My hand loading improved when I got my Caldwell but as I got better and more able to produce good ammo, it started to hold me back. Initially, mysterious variations in MV and SD got blamed on my lack of reloading skill. Eventually, I gained enough experience to recognize that occasionally it was the Caldwell telling me lies.

When you're able to get your ES below 10 much of the time and your SD down below 5, you can't put up with a chronograph which can't reliably determine MV. Sometimes I think my Caldwell did pretty well, but on other days it would show odd variations in the expected MV and once in a while give me a round 150fps fast or slow. With high confidence in my match ammo, I was finally able to raise the B.S. flag. Unfortunately, I couldn't always tell when the Caldwell was having a good and when it wasn't.

Missing a shot wasn't a frequent problem, but it did happen. The lies, some big and some small, were the real problem.

The solution was to purchase a Labradar; the best decision I've made lately. So far I have not seen a single MV which seemed odd. My SD's now are low with my good ammo, and not so good with my plinking ammo; just what I would expect. And they're consistent. And they make sense.

It also doesn't miss shots like the Caldwell used to do. Plus, unlike the Magnetospeed Chronograph, the Labradar doesn't mount on the barrel which negates measuring speed and shooting for precision at the same time.

My only regret is that I didn't buy the Labradar sooner.

 

[Fotheringill]

Terry-

If you are will to spend north of $3000 on equipment you may or may not like, take the lists above and purchase. Have you ever reloaded before? That is a key question. The lists are of top shelf equipment. If you are just starting in reloading, I would suggest a starter kit for under $300. If you stay with the sport, you will be replacing most of what is included in the kit in a year or two anyway and write off the $300. In my mind it is better than putting three grand on the pass line of the reloading craps table and not liking what you getting into. Be aware, you may or may not like, for example, a purchased RCBS Rockchucker press or a particular arbor press or company XXX's trimmer.
I know it is befuddling. I done got befuddled when I started and have remained in the same state.

 

[TerryH]

My shop wouln't be that neat if I burned it down and built a new one. ...

The whole clean shop thing is a disease. Some days a blessing. Some days a curse.

 

[TerryH]

Terry-

If you are will to spend north of $3000 on equipment you may or may not like, take the lists above and purchase. Have you ever reloaded before? That is a key question. The lists are of top shelf equipment. If you are just starting in reloading, I would suggest a starter kit for under $300. If you stay with the sport, you will be replacing most of what is included in the kit in a year or two anyway and write off the $300. In my mind it is better than putting three grand on the pass line of the reloading craps table and not liking what you getting into. Be aware, you may or may not like, for example, a purchased RCBS Rockchucker press or a particular arbor press or company XXX's trimmer.
I know it is befuddling. I done got befuddled when I started and have remained in the same state.

I think befuddled would be an understatement. I love to research things. It's my nature. It's normally fun for me and usually said research ends with me being able to make cost effective decisions that function as intended. Not so much on the reloading deal. I simply cannot spend $3k plus on reloading equipment at this point. But on the other hand I need to be able to reload precisely to properly utilize the rifle. I have a friend that reloads that told that he would be able to do what I needed until I got the whole reloading thing figured out but that hasn't gone exactly as planned, ie: have done rifle, have zero cartridges. Not his fault at all. He unexpectedly got called out of town indefinitely for his work. We all lead busy lives and some joker's crap that needs reloaded is not at the top of anyone's list any way. I am clueless now.

 

[Fotheringill]

Hands on is obviously the best way to learn.

Get a manual, i.e. Lyman's 50th or 49th. IGNORE all of the load data until you truly read, absorb, and practice the steps in the front of the book with comfort and THEN go start playing around with the loads. Never go above the max stated nor below for the loads. As you get more comfortable, consult with the charts from both bullet and powder manufacturers. After reading, rereading and fumbling a bit, it took me the better part of an hour to make my first round. Now it is a whole lot less.

 

[T-shooter]

I think befuddled would be an understatement. I love to research things. It's my nature. It's normally fun for me and usually said research ends with me being able to make cost effective decisions that function as intended. Not so much on the reloading deal. I simply cannot spend $3k plus on reloading equipment at this point. But on the other hand I need to be able to reload precisely to properly utilize the rifle. I have a friend that reloads that told that he would be able to do what I needed until I got the whole reloading thing figured out but that hasn't gone exactly as planned, ie: have done rifle, have zero cartridges. Not his fault at all. He unexpectedly got called out of town indefinitely for his work. We all lead busy lives and some joker's crap that needs reloaded is not at the top of anyone's list any way. I am clueless now.

The list I sent would be between $1,300 and $1,400 and is capable of making very accurate ammo. The most expensive is the scale. Go with a GemPro300 and cut the cost by $450. They are reasonably accurate to +/- .02 grain. Upgrade the scale later. It's good that you already have a chronograph. A box of Lapua brass, a pound of powder like Varget, a box of match primers, and a box of match grade bullets and you be ready to do some work. If you can, get some old cases to experiment with. You'll probably ruin a few setting up the dies and cutters. There is a steep learning curve so experiment on the cheap and if you feel the4 need to upgrade anything, you can piece by piece at a later date. Also if it's in the budget, a runout gauge like a Sinclair would be a plus at about $100.

 

[TerryH]

The list I sent would be between $1,300 and $1,400 and is capable of making very accurate ammo. The most expensive is the scale. Go with a GemPro300 and cut the cost by $450. They are reasonably accurate to +/- .02 grain. Upgrade the scale later. It's good that you already have a chronograph. A box of Lapua brass, a pound of powder like Varget, a box of match primers, and a box of match grade bullets and you be ready to do some work. If you can, get some old cases to experiment with. You'll probably ruin a few setting up the dies and cutters. There is a steep learning curve so experiment on the cheap and if you feel the4 need to upgrade anything, you can piece by piece at a later date. Also if it's in the budget, a runout gauge like a Sinclair would be a plus at about $100.

Thank you. If I could keep it to around $1k or so it would be very, very good. I got 500 - 200.20x's and 100 fully prepped Lapua cases with the rifle. Have powder and primers. I bought an nice M5 beam scale from a forum member and sent it to Scott Parker for tuning already so I'm planning using that.

 

[TerryH]

Hands on is obviously the best way to learn.

Get a manual, i.e. Lyman's 50th or 49th. IGNORE all of the load data until you truly read, absorb, and practice the steps in the front of the book with comfort and THEN go start playing around with the loads. Never go above the max stated nor below for the loads. As you get more comfortable, consult with the charts from both bullet and powder manufacturers. After reading, rereading and fumbling a bit, it took me the better part of an hour to make my first round. Now it is a whole lot less.

I bought the Berger manual. I actually have the recipe from the previous owner of the rifle so I have a starting point at least. Of course the 200.20x bullet isn't in the Berger manual because it was made after the manual was printed.

 

[Richard Coody]

What would you buy? I need to load .308 for my impending F Class adventure. I've researched and read and am now suffering from total information confusion. What is really necessary to do this and do it well?

and down the rabbit hole you go.

i love this stuff. probably have more $ in reloading equipment than i do in rifles.

opinions vary immensely. lots of folks out there who produce accurate ammo with RCBS dies and a rockchucker. Some just throw their charges.

but when you compete and are looking for that next 0.10 off your group size things get a little ridiculous

i would say to start, use quality brass, berger or Sierra bullets, quality press, forster full length die which you can have honed once you figure this stuff out, bench rest quality primers, varget works well for me in .308, powder charges need to be weighed individuality, arbor press and wilson seating dies.

load development is where you will find what works. let the target tell you. crono's are great tools but they can have you chasing your tail.

after you master this then you can take it to the next level and the next ................

 

[Cecil S.]

The "rabbit hole" can eat into your budget. Buy good dies and start your learning curve you will get to a point that you see whats going wrong in your process.

 

[LHSmith]

Send Whidden 3 fired cases so they can produce a die that fits YOUR chamber. Everything else is secondary.

 

[DirtySteve]

Terry H, I know a guy that shot on a team at the F-class matches (F-class world or Canadian championships I don't know which it was but it was a big match) he reloads on a Rock Chucker using Dillion Dies. His Team placed Third. He consistently shoots 198 and better using that equipment. I just shot my all time best score a 199-10X using a Dillon 550 and Redding Competition seating die. I used it in progressive fashion. Consistency is the key. I use an old RCBS 505 scale. Is it accurate beats me. But it works. The Dillon is great for pumping out ammo fast and it is consistent enough. Reading the wind is the biggest part of doing well. When you score watch the flags and if you spot a subtle change in the flags, watch the spotters when the targets come up after the change. Did the change effect the shots fired? Did they go a little more left or not as far left (depending on the wind change.).

 

[Ringostar]

The tuned balance beam is a very good scale. You mentioned having local mid and long range matches. Talk with the better shooters in your area. Finding a local mentor can teach you loading tricks and wind reading/shooting tips will help a lot.

 

[BP1]

Terry H, I know a guy that shot on a team at the F-class matches (F-class world or Canadian championships I don't know which it was but it was a big match) he reloads on a Rock Chucker using Dillion Dies. His Team placed Third. He consistently shoots 198 and better using that equipment. I just shot my all time best score a 199-10X using a Dillon 550 and Redding Competition seating die. I used it in progressive fashion. Consistency is the key. I use an old RCBS 505 scale. Is it accurate beats me. But it works. The Dillon is great for pumping out ammo fast and it is consistent enough. Reading the wind is the biggest part of doing well. When you score watch the flags and if you spot a subtle change in the flags, watch the spotters when the targets come up after the change. Did the change effect the shots fired? Did they go a little more left or not as far left (depending on the wind change.).

I’m calling BS on this one there’s no way.

 

[50bmg1979]

I bought the Berger manual. I actually have the recipe from the previous owner of the rifle so I have a starting point at least. Of course the 200.20x bullet isn't in the Berger manual because it was made after the manual was printed.

Where are you located?

 

[smokinghole]

Oh and if you buy a coax on Cabela's make sure you sign up with Active Junky for 6% cash back. If I were ready with gift cards I'd be looking at $221ish on a coax today. Currently there is 10% off for military = 288, 3 gift cards would have ran me $242, and then Active Junky gives you back $18 when you use all $300 worth with the gift card. So technically the press costs and remainder of the $300 purchase cost you $224, not bad, right? Stacking discounts is killer for things like Forster products that never go on sale.

 

[TerryH]

Where are you located?

I'm in Springdale, Ar.

 

[TerryH]

I have complied a list with a $1000 budget for equipment. Thoughts?

Co-Ax Press: $300 - Brownell’s

Whidden std bushing dies: $180 - Brownell’s

Aluminum funnel .30 cal: $13 - Brownell’s

RCBS Collet bullet puller w/collet: $40 - Amazon

LE Wilson deburring tool: $21 - Amazon

Lee perfect powder measure: $26 – Amazon

Frankford reloading tray: $7 - Amazon

RCBS case lube kit: $23 - Amazon

K&M neck turning set: $100 - Midway

Dandy power trickler: $70 – Midway

RCBS shell holder: $7 – Midway

M5 scale with Tuning: $200

Total: $987

 

[LHSmith]

With much help from my new found best friend Russell Myers (Dos XX), I have complied a list with a $1000 budget for equipment. Thoughts?

Co-Ax Press: $300 - Brownell’s

Whidden std bushing dies: $180 - Brownell’s

Aluminum funnel .30 cal: $13 - Brownell’s

RCBS Collet bullet puller w/collet: $40 - Amazon

LE Wilson deburring tool: $21 - Amazon

Lee perfect powder measure: $26 – Amazon

Frankford reloading tray: $7 - Amazon

RCBS case lube kit: $23 - Amazon

K&M neck turning set: $100 - Midway

Dandy power trickler: $70 – Midway

RCBS shell holder: $7 – Midway

M5 scale with Tuning: $200

Total: $987

Off the shelf dies are a "close but no cigar".....send fired brass to Whidden- I believe the cost is the same.
The Coax is problematic when you start getting brass that refuse to bump like the rest of the batch. You can make any single stage press float. IMHO, the press is the most overrated tool on the list......and at double the cost of a Boss or Rockchucker-there are other tools to spend that $ on that will net better results- like carbide turning mandrels and Skip's die shims and Wilson In-line seater and arbor press specifically made for reloading.

 

[Wingzero]

Not sure if RCBS Collet bullet puller will work on Forster Co Ax press.

Cheaper alternative to the sizing die but of equal quality is a Forster full length sizing die with a neck diameter of your choice. Also get the 308 National Match which is .003" shorter for bumping the shoulder.

https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/full-length-sizing-dies/