slip 2000

[SilverEagle]

Catshooter you mentioned burt on carbon fouling like in a car engine that is found on the valves.
If you ever have a chance to see a MG-34 torn down, the recoil booster is just as hash an enviroment as a valve or piston in a gasoline engine.

We never scopped the barrels, our desire was to deposit as much carbon onto the working surfaces of these two weapons to see if the produck would work, and in the field testing we did, while on the firing line, showed us the answer we were all looking for.

the carbon cutter did make the removal of the burnt on carbon easier, we even droped in a fouled spark plug, and it worked on it as well

 

[CatShooter]

"CatShooter you mentioned burt on carbon fouling like in a car engine that is found on the valves.
If you ever have a chance to see a MG-34 torn down,..."

I haven't had the chance... but a lot of folks have been disappointed in the performance of these "carbon cleaners".


.

 

[DonM]

I am amazed that there are those who feel that Slip 2000
Carbon Cutter/Killer does not do a good job on carbon.
When it first came out I purchased a case of gallons for
area shooters, along with a few gallons of the Slip 2000
lube. I have felt that it has done an excellent job of
removing carbon from rifle bores and have examined the bores
with a bore scope. The Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter/Killer is
also excellent for cleaning muzzle brakes & AR15 bolts. There
isn't nothing much more aggrevating to clean than an AR15 bolt.
I let my muzzle brakes soak overnight and flush with water,
then blow dry with an air hose, and lube down and reinstall
the brake. After using the Slip 2000 in the bore, I dry patch
the bore down good and follow with Bore Tech's Eliminator to
work on the copper fouling. Let that soak overnight when it
is poosible, then brush real good with a stiff nylon brush,
dry patch down good, then apply the a couple wet patches of
Lockease. Everyone has different cleaning regiments that they
go through, but this has worked well for me. I am more than
pleased with the Slip 2000 & Bore Tech's Eliminator. Works
for me.

 

[jweiler]

I am amazed that there are those who feel that Slip 2000
Carbon Cutter/Killer does not do a good job on carbon.
When it first came out I purchased a case of gallons for
area shooters, along with a few gallons of the Slip 2000
lube. I have felt that it has done an excellent job of
removing carbon from rifle bores and have examined the bores
with a bore scope. The Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter/Killer is
also excellent for cleaning muzzle brakes & AR15 bolts. There
isn't nothing much more aggrevating to clean than an AR15 bolt.
I let my muzzle brakes soak overnight and flush with water,
then blow dry with an air hose, and lube down and reinstall
the brake. After using the Slip 2000 in the bore, I dry patch
the bore down good and follow with Bore Tech's Eliminator to
work on the copper fouling. Let that soak overnight when it
is poosible, then brush real good with a stiff nylon brush,
dry patch down good, then apply the a couple wet patches of
Lockease. Everyone has different cleaning regiments that they
go through, but this has worked well for me. I am more than
pleased with the Slip 2000 & Bore Tech's Eliminator. Works
for me.

<Rant>
I have tried this Carbon Killer crap on everything from revolver cylinders to gas guns and bolt actions. I have followed the instructions explicitly. Quite simply, WD-40 works just as well... This miracle 'softener' is not even slightly effective. You could get the same results by saving your money, buying some beer, dipping those crusty parts in your beer mug and STILL have a fairly tasty drink to sip while you break out the Flitz or lead-away cloth and clean it properly. The funny thing is you either love this product or think its total crap. Now... there are only two explanations for this puzzling discrepancy. Either the Slip company and its pals are engaged in widespread 'marketing' via message boards... OR the Slip company has somehow distributed two batches of Carbon Killer the one with the magic juice and the one without. IMHO I know that this stuff is snake oil. Disagree? If you live in Southern California, lets go shooting at Angeles... at the end of the day I will watch you use your Slip Carbon Killer on one of my long guns and one revolver cylinder... If it cleans completely and just wipes off as advertised I will pay you 50 bucks and come back to this message board and publicly declare myself an ass. I resent the fact that the Slip company has not only ripped me off but is continuing to rip others off. So Don... with all due respect... there are LOTS of us out there who got burned and continue to get burned... believe it!
</Rant>

 

[DonM]

I might be incorrect, but, it comes to memory that I read an
article in Precision Shooting,January 06 issue) in regard to
the Slip 2000 Products. Don't think I had ever heard of it before that time. We picked up one of the jars,about a pint) somewhere and gave that a try. Having been obviously pleased with the end results, we then ordered the case of gallons of Carbon Killer/Cutter & the Slip 2000 lube becasue of the advertised range for the temperature it would endure. The same article also gave good reviews for the Bore Tech Eliminator. Tried it also and am still using it. What got my attention was that neither product had any amonia in them. That has been 2+ years ago, so don't know if Slip 2000 has changed their ingredients or not. I think it came from California,at least out West). The author of the article rated Slip 2000 as the best of the Carbon Cutters that they tested,at that time). Got to be something wrong somewhere.

 

[Bob3700]

Gents,

I have about 18 months experience using the Slip 2000 Carbon cleaner. I wouldn't leave home without it.

The bore of my XC and LR rifles are all cleaned using this product and followed up with Bore Tech Eliminator.

The process involves wetting the bore with two patches and letting them soak. Now I wet a bronze brush with the stuff and brush the bore. For a testing/training session of 50 rounds I will only do this once. If I shoot an 88 - 100 shot match, I will follow the regime twice. My Hawkeye tells me that it is doing a wonderful job of removing the carbon from the bore. The hardest place to remove carbon from is the juncture of the lands and grooves. You do have to let the product dwell in the bore so that it can begin to loose the carbon from the steel and also apply the brush.

The product doesn't disolve the carbon, it just helps break it loose with the help of a brush.

If you think you have the copper all out of your bbl, run a patch of Bore Tech thu it and see what the patch tells you.

I have used Butches bore shine but only as a final product in the bbl. The Slip and Bore Tech leave the bore too dry. I use the BBS to keep the bbl wet until I am ready to shoot.

It works for me and my borescope confirms it.

That is just my .02.

Bob