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Scotch Brite pads - o/s neck cleaning

First, buy some scotch-brite pads.
Right hand; hold case with thumb and index finger.
Left hand; fold scotch-brite over neck of case.
Right hand; twist case
Or reverse which hand does which.
If too scratchy; buy finer scotch-brite.
An awful lot of worry and fuss over something so simple.
 
I have rolls of 3M maroon & gray scotchbrite and choose 4/0 steel wool, it conforms to case contours easier. If steel wool bothers your hand wear a latex glove. ;)
 
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I’ve used both steel wool and scotch bright. If you use a drill motor and case driver, make damn sure you protect your fingertips. Doesn’t take much to slice yourself open, especially if there’s much of a chamfer on the case mouth.

In the end, this has gone the way of other things that I can’t prove make any difference on target... Things like - necking down in two steps, tight neck chambers (turning necks), measuring runout, cleaning primer pockets, wet tumbling, hell, tumbling at all (unless lube inside necks), annealing, sorting Lapua brass of same lot, meticulously tracking brass firings, sorting Bergers or Vapor Trails…. I’ve cut out all of that crap where I can, and I’m still the same average recreational shooter. Reloading just doesn’t take as long.
 
The reason the brass is brightening, you are scratching the surface. The reason for cleaning isn't for bragging rights as to how well your brass looks. It's should be about keeping your resizing die clean.
 
The reason the brass is brightening, you are scratching the surface. The reason for cleaning isn't for bragging rights as to how well your brass looks. It's should be about keeping your resizing die clean.
Exactly. And the same for a AMP annealer.
 

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