hogpatrol
Silver $$ Contributor
My method also. Green ones from Walmart.
Scotch Brite pads - o/s neck cleaning
- Thread starter GetReal
- Start date
Inside the can is what I assume is a big wad of cotton that been treated with some sort of cleaner/polisher. You can pull off a cotton ball size of it, to clean the necks of your brass as you go. Really no effort at all, just wipe. Someone said it leaves a residue on the case. I assume that you will still have to lube and resize, so I don't see how that would affect anything. Buy a can and see what you've been missing.
AGREE - The generic steel wool you buy everywhere is low quality steel made in China that disintegrates as you use it. From woodworker perspective these steel particles will stain the wood surface black as you use it &/or embed themselves into the work surface finish. If you want quality steel wool that doesn’t break apart or immediately oxidize your workpiece then buy a quality steel wool. If you don’t want small particles of steel embedded in your brass or covering your workspace then buy quality steel wool.
Liberon brand is the most common/available premium steel wool found at specialty wood working stores, like Highland Woodworking, Rockler and many others. It is day and night compared to standard generic steel wool.
What is / where did you get that case holder, can you provide a product name or link or something? I've been trying different ways to accomplish what you've pictured with no success.
White scotchbrite is a great product for cleaning with out removing material I have a huge stack from amazon, just make sure to get authentic 3m product as there are a lot of knock offs that don't work nearly as well. As a side note the white pads are great for buffing wipe on woodworking finishes.
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Roughly 320 grit
6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
I've tried the chemical cloth (don't remember the brand name, but it was around during the 60s, or earlier, I think) - that caused neck splits halfway down; brass wool - not aggressive enough to clean, and fairly coarse fibered; copper wool - softer than brass wool, but not aggressive enough; Stainless steel wool - also coarser, cleans well, but is IMO too aggressive; Scotch-Brite pads in green, white, and grey (different grits) - they work OK, but lose the abrasiveness pretty quick (don't remember which grit was best.)
I've gone back to 0000 steel wool. Cheap, easy to find. Keep it in a ziploc bag between uses to keep the shedding of steel bits under control.
Edit to add: I clean the neck exterior at the range, 5 at a time after each group. Apparently most people clean back in the loading room.
I've gone back to 0000 steel wool. Cheap, easy to find. Keep it in a ziploc bag between uses to keep the shedding of steel bits under control.
Edit to add: I clean the neck exterior at the range, 5 at a time after each group. Apparently most people clean back in the loading room.
Last edited:
6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks Oso. Just ordered it from Amazon. I stopped using Walmart steel wool because of the mess.AGREE - The generic steel wool you buy everywhere is low quality steel made in China that disintegrates as you use it. From woodworker perspective these steel particles will stain the wood surface black as you use it &/or embed themselves into the work surface finish. If you want quality steel wool that doesn’t break apart or immediately oxidize your workpiece then buy a quality steel wool. If you don’t want small particles of steel embedthanks ded in your brass or covering your workspace then buy quality steel wool.
Liberon brand is the most common/available premium steel wool found at specialty wood working stores, like Highland Woodworking, Rockler and many others. It is day and night compared to standard generic steel wool.
WSnyder
Silver $$ Contributor
You can still get it. Amazon. I still have a bit left that came from Sinclair. A small patch cut from the cloth lasted through lots of cases. Works about the same as the Nevr Dull.
hogpatrol
Silver $$ Contributor
Case Holder with Driver
These case holders and drivers are for our 21st Century Lathe (used on the tail stock) and for hand turning with power driver or drill. If you are using a power driver you will need to use an adapter located here...
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6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
If anyone is thinking of getting this tool, send me a PM. I have a set with the 308 case holder I will sell at a discount. Both tools ready to use in your drillPMA Case Holder Magnum (Rem/Win Mag, PRC, WSM, ULT...)
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I still have one from years ago and still use it.
I usually use 0000 steel wool, as I don't like the Scotchbrite pads, at least for cleaning necks. I blow them out or tap them on the bench or whatever to get any loose fibers out. Honestly, I have never heard of getting a piece in your hand. That can't be 0000, can it? What I have is way too fine to pierce anything....
SteveOak
Gold $$ Contributor
Nevr-Dull {https://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Nevr-Dull_polish} All Metal Wadding Polish does contain abrasive components. It's considered a mildly abrasive polish. The fine abrasive particles, such as aluminum oxide and calcium carbonate, are dispersed in mineral spirits. While it's generally considered gentle and effective for removing rust, tarnish, and other contaminants, it can still potentially scratch surfaces, especially delicate ones like chrome.
Gene Patton
Silver $$ Contributor
PM Sent
jds holler
Gold $$ Contributor
Heck I've been using the same ancient green one for years. I'd guess they probably start out as 250 or so.
After six months cleaning pots and pans, its been gentle enough to use on cases when I spin em with the electrical drill.
Thanks for listing those grits. A painter oughta know. jd
Dang .... beat me. That's what i get for posting then goign to the range i guess.
Gene Patton
Silver $$ Contributor
Too much rain here but I wish that I could have done that!
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