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Scope for fast bullet and slow bullet

Well I have friend that has worked me up 2 loads loads for my. Ruger M77 28 inch barrel rifle. IMR 8208 shoot 2436 fps with 140 Serria matchking hpbt and shoots 1/2 inch groups at 200 yards. Crazy accurate. Then 2nd load H4350 2816 fps will shoot under moa through 200 yards at are rifle range. I was able to get this ammo loaded so cheap I could not pass it up because he sold his 6.5 creedmoor and now shooting 338 Lupa and want to just get read of all his components. We reloaded 500 rounds of the IMR 8208 and have about 200 rounds of the faster h4350. Question... what scope and reticle would work best for me if I wanted to switch back and forth from fast shell to low speed shell. Do you think I should just use moa dots or turn turrets when changing ammo ? And what scope to buy with what reticle. Want to shoot out to 1300 yards. the slow shell IMR 8208 still does excellent at 1000 yards. Thanks. Marty
 
For target shooting ?

I really like the Front (first) focal plane and matching turrets/retice (moa/moa or mil/mil) for certain reasons.

I always dial when switching loads. I usually have 2 to 4 different loads for each rifle I shoot. I write down the different zeros in my data book that's always with me when shooting. Even tho most of the different loads seem to have just about the same 100 meter zero, they don't usually share the same trajectory way out there.

My DOPE Data impact books are worth more than gold to me. I recommend you start record keeping your dope when you shoot.

Your budget will influence our scope recommendations.
 
I would recommend a decent quality scope that has an elevation turret. Determine your actual drop for any load you want to shoot, then dial that elevation whenever you decide to shoot that load. Reticles with built in "drops" may seem like a good idea, but they rarely work all that well in practice. Further, they are not adjustable for things such as daily variation in temperature and humidity that will definitely affect your POI. The elevation turret on a good scope will put you right where you want to be.
 
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Shooting steel and other less precise targets, and when you need to spot and adjust for your misses, a ffp scope is your friend. To drill smaller groups like Fclass, the smaller reticle on sfp will help. Sounds like you are more in the first category, for which a graduated mil reticle or Christmas tree style is useful for wind and/or elevation hold off. Be sure the turrets are in the same units. For different loads a decent ballistics app will let you build in the zero offset so it is automatically compensated for at all distances. You can spend as much as you want for a scope, but a swafa fixed 12 or 16 power for $300 is a functional, solid performer.
 
Shooting steel and other less precise targets, and when you need to spot and adjust for your misses, a ffp scope is your friend. To drill smaller groups like Fclass, the smaller reticle on sfp will help. Sounds like you are more in the first category, for which a graduated mil reticle or Christmas tree style is useful for wind and/or elevation hold off. Be sure the turrets are in the same units. For different loads a decent ballistics app will let you build in the zero offset so it is automatically compensated for at all distances. You can spend as much as you want for a scope, but a swafa fixed 12 or 16 power for $300 is a functional, solid performer.
OP, for about 900 used like new you can pick up a Bushy G2 dmr. Perfect tracking. Won't break. Christmas tree as Charlie mentions above. Seymour
 

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