Scope has no more adjustment

[zullo74]

No way would a reversed base account for the rifle shooting 27" high at 200 yards with the elevation adjustment all the way down. Put your thinking cap on!

 

[zullo74]

... yes you need to be about 75 inches high at 200 yards. And hold on to your hat because you need to be 143 inches high at 500 yards.

These 'Line Of Sight' values that some of you are quoting is NOT what is needed to get on target. They are just confusing the OP (I think you are confused too). He doesn't need to know them. What he needs to know is the how much to shoot high at 200 yards so he can get on paper at 1000 yards, and in his case it is 40.142 inches (38.34 MOA). I use Quick Target software. It hasn't failed me at 1000 yards. Bullets travel in an arc, so the mid trajectory is much higher than the impact point.

 

[NateHaler]

Remove the tapered base and install a flat base. Or, get a scope with a lot more internal elevation adjustment, like the Sightron SIII 8-32.

Rather than rely on your buddy for (faulty) advice, you should consider the mathematics of these endeavors *before* buying your gear.

 

[zullo74]

sub.sonic,

I think you mentioned the reason you are having a problem. I now can see that you PROBABLY received a 30 MOA base in lieu of the 20 MOA you wanted! If your new scope has 45" of elevation total, that's only 22.5" up and 22.5" down. You will not get the required elevation with flat bases. If there is no time before your match to exchange the tapered base you have, I recommend that you go with what you have and sight in at your 200 yard range about 40 inches high and you should be on paper (elevation wise) at 1000 yards. Best of luck in your first long range match. Please let me know how you fair.

 

[zullo74]

You don't know what you are talking about.

 

[medicineman]

If you have the NR-DD reticle, just use a 0 base. That will get to atleast 600 yds. After that just use the first dot down from the crosshair and adjust from there.

 

[sub.sonic]

Hey guys I would like to take this time to say I will be calling NF and EGW today to get there opinions, but I have to say medicineman has a solution I think might work, one I did not see either. My scope has the NP-2DD reticle and what he says makes sense to me, I also agree, as most of you have stated, that my base is the root of my problem but we all missed the boat about the second dot below the center dot. I must admit I was confused about all the different views about MOA's, even though I have been plinking for over 20 years (iron sights), I have only been precision shooting with a scope for about two years and don't know the first think about long range shooting but I was bitten by the bug and I want to learn more about MOA and how it affects the bullet's path. If there is one of you who doesn't mind teaching an old dog new tricks or pointing me in the direction of a wesite or book, it would be greatly appreciated. I visit this site alot because of the diversity and wealth of knowledge one can obtain from people such as yourselves. I will keep everyone informed of my progress with this situation. Hopefully I can obtain a standard base before the weekend. To everyone who has helped and who visits this site have a blessed and safe holiday season.

 

[effendude]

Sub.sonic,
I have a couple Savage single shot actions and ran into the same problem. I put 20moa bases on with my NF BR's because everyone said you need 20moa bases to shoot to 1000yds. Here is what I ran into... at 300 yds. for F-class with both 6.5x284 and 6br, I could not get low enough to center the bullseye. I ran out of "down" on both scopes while still 6-10" higher than desired. I had to aim at the hole for the 10 ring scoring disk below the target and adjust elevation to center the shot. I'm no engineer, but I wonder if the Savage target actions have "a little something" built in already.

There has been some wise advice posted above. Gunamonth has information that shoiws exactly what you need. Put a zero moa base on, and see if you can get to your desired zero with a little room to spare. If you can't, try a 10 moa. You just might no be able to get a short range zero AND be capable of going all the way to 1000 with your cartridge using a BR scope.

Thanks for the post by the way, every once in a while someone hits one out of the park with a fairly simple problem that brings out all kinds of responses. It makes for great entertainment.
Good Luck and please post your results so others can learn,
Scott

 

[zullo74]

Again, you insist on putting forth these trajectory tables and charts that are referenced to LOS. We are really saying the same thing, but your way is confusing to anyone who has not shot long distance.
Your chart is referenced to a 0 yard zero. Sub.sonic wants to zero at 200 yards and needs to know how much ADDITIONAL elevation he needs to be on target at 1000 yards. Depending on his load, it might take him 35 inches of elevation to get on center at 200 yards. he will then need an ADDITIONAL 40 inches to get on center at 1000 yards. There you have "your" 75 inch theory! He doesn't need 75 inches high at 200 yards, he needs a 200 yard zero + 40 inches.

 

[zullo74]

If I'm wrong, then how come it works? I set up scopes for F-class quite often.

 

[sub.sonic]

effendude, I measured the action when I first received it and both ends are the same. I also spoke to a guy who had the same problem with a .308 Remington 700 and a NF NSX scope, he had a base made that would allow him to zero at 100 yards and retain about 33 -35 MOA of elevation and then use hold over marks for point of aim. I also think I need to step up to a flatter shooting cartridge, one that I can buy off the shelf and produce good barrel life, any suggestions. I don't think I will make it to the match Sunday, bad weather is moving into this region. But as soon as the weather breaks I will be testing some of these theories and post my results

 

[effendude]

Sub.sonic,
If you are looking for cartridges "off the shelf" meaning factory ammo, your choices are fairly limited. If you want to shoot to 1000 yds. with factory ammo, and good barrel life the .308 win. comes to mind. Federal Gold Metal ammo is the std which other factory ammo is compared to. 30-06 and .243 Win. also are excellent cartridges available off the shelf and readily available.

You are going to get a hundred opinions on different cartridges if you are looking for a cartridge you generally reload for. I'm not nearly in the class of some regular shooters who contribute here, but in general, 6mm, 6.5mm, 7mm and .30 calibers are most popular.
6XC, .243, 6.5 x 284, .284, and .308 are good "up to 1000 yd." choices with factory made brass and excellent bullets. .243 and 6.5 x 284 have barrel burner reputations but excellent performance. Check out the cartridge guides, they are excellent.

You are a little ahead of the game with a Savage action so you only need to change the bolt head to go to the larger cartridges. With the Savage barrel nut system you can buy prechambered barrels in virtually any caliber and have them installed easily.

On a seperate note regarding elevation increasing bases, when I started shooting 600 yds. some time ago, I was told by many people that most scopes could not go to 600 yds. with the amount of elevation they have. I can tell you that is pretty much false. I run an F-class league here in MN. Part of my program is to check all shooters and their equiment at 100 yds. before they can shoot at 300 and 600 yds. We start with a 100 yds. zero and go up 5 moa for 300 yds, then 11 moa more for a 600 yds. zero, all done at 100 yds. (I know most cartridges don't need 16 moa for 600 yds., but we do this for safety, a round high on the target is accountable, one that skips before the target is not) I have not had a scope with std. bases and I see some real bargain scopes, not be able to go 16 moa from a 100yds. zero. There may not be much elevation left, but every one has made it to 600 yds. 1000 yds. is a different game, requiring double the elevation and much better equipment.
Scott