Savage LRPV 6mm BR

[Hotshot]

If your trigger is tripping without pulling the blade all you have to do is turn the adjustment a little bit towards the heavier direction. Solved the problem for me and others I shoot with.
I have taken the blade out and adjusted to "safe" usually 10-12 ounces on the target trigger.

 

[dbduff]

I run a similar setup. You are gonna love it.

If you intend to use scope caps make sure you have room. Have encountered difficulties from being just a bit too close.

 

[Gary C]

Hotshot,
I did just that after I got home.
It was real sweet the way it was ( for the first eight shots ).
We will see when I can get to the range next time how it feels.
db,
The Sightron came with caps and a 3 1/2 inch ( I think ) sun shade and they are on th escope on the rifle and seem to be fine.

 

[JFrank]

Here’s a savage 12 chambered in 6 br I shot for a few years, mainly a 600 yard rifle but also has shot quite well at 1000.

Rifle basic trigger
Criterion 28’ bull barrel
SSS dog tracker stock
Sightron scope
30.1 gr Varget
Berger 108

 

[rjtfroggy]

When you get the trigger set where you want it put a drop of nail polish on the screw, no more problems with it going out of adjustment.

 

[YBPS]

What is a good trigger upgrade for the MOD12? I have the factory one set light, it works well, as long as you are easy on the bolt. Would like to upgrade.

 

[rsbhunter]

Jard....I have one in one of my 12's, if my factory trigger in the other gives me trouble it will get a Jard as well...From what experience I have it has excellent pull weight, and I'll never go back....rsbhunter

 

[J.d. Popkes]

Jard....I have one in one of my 12's, if my factory trigger in the other gives me trouble it will get a Jard as well...From what experience I have it has excellent pull weight, and I'll never go back....rsbhunter

Is it a drop in design for the most part? I have all top bolt releases. I suppose inletting depends on stock. Ain’t a jard like $275?

 

[rsbhunter]

Yes, it uses the original pin to hold it in to the action...you do need to preload the sear, but its easy to do....I don't know what you're looking for as to trigger pull or such.....but it has a really great pull weight, and it is adjustable for creep and backlash.... It is NOT a Jewell, bix and Andy, or other true bench rest class trigger, but, we aren't shooting $1800.00 Bat actions either.....$219.00 at Optics Planet, maybe less elsewhere.... If you buy it and don't like it, let me know...if I haven't bought another by then, we'll work something out if you want....rsb

 

[moorepower]

The SAV2 is a good 5-7oz trigger depending upon the rifle. I have not had one safe at 4oz yet as advertized but my 6br is 5oz and safe. The one in my 6CM is about 7-8oz, but I still am happy with it.

 

[slobhunter2]

You can buy a trigger directly from Jard for 228.00 shipped.

 

[rsbhunter]

You might look on D'vor site...they are a spin off of Optics Planet , but kind of a clearance house...I have bought alot of stuff off of there. You do need to buy what you want if they have it, because they "normally " don't have large qty.... Sometimes only 1 or 2....I don't have a Rifle Basix trigger, I have read good and bad on them...I did buy one for a Rem model 7 that I ended up sending back...wasn't impressed... rsbhunter

 

[JFrank]

What is a good trigger upgrade for the MOD12? I have the factory one set light, it works well, as long as you are easy on the bolt. Would like to upgrade.

The Savage sav 2 aftermarket triggers are OK just not great.

 

[rsbhunter]

I wonder if the blade could be "shimmed" to make the blade less sensitive to the side torque ? The factory trigger are a great factory trigger, and adequate for most shooting....maybe one of the guy's here have tried or have a theory on it??? Thanks, rsbhunter

 

[JFrank]

Probably not- shimming just adds more drag, if you look at the aftermarket options they all have side to side movement and more than the original trigger that maybe shouldn’t be adjusted quite as light as some people try to get too.
my rifle basic is super light but can definitely go off slapping the bolt or dropping the butt stock in the bags

 

[rsbhunter]

But I wonder if shimming just the blade, not the trigger would help alleviate the "tripping" the safety feature..removing the blade only begs for a oops!!!..I only close my bolt when the rifle is on the rest and bags.....but even then, have a round go off before the "fire" command is given, and people don't look at you the same from then on...and rightly so.but, we are derailing this posters thread....im glad your rifle is doing great.....Savages are capable rifles...rsbhunter

 

[JFrank]

Iirc the OP brought up the trigger discussion on this thread which somewhat evolved to where it is today, and of course apologies if I’m in error.

 

[Gary C]

SJ,
I have been following this trigger discussion.
If there is a way to get the Savage traget red blade trigger a little lighter I wanna know!
If I get around 8OZ on my gage the rifle shot the first 6-8 rounds fine then all that I got was a CLICK and no BOOM.
It is set at 1LB now but I have not shot it that way yet to see how it feels and functions.
I may upgrade to a aftermarket but I also may want to try production class this summer and a trigger change would be a NO NO.

G

 

[rsbhunter]

SPJ, I was pointing the finger at myself....I know it directly relates to the op's question, but I derailed it by asking my questions instead of trying to help answer his......it's easy to get wrapped up in a subject when I own the same rifles....rsbhunter

 

[JFrank]

SJ,
I have been following this trigger discussion.
If there is a way to get the Savage traget red blade trigger a little lighter I wanna know!
If I get around 8OZ on my gage the rifle shot the first 6-8 rounds fine then all that I got was a CLICK and no BOOM.
It is set at 1LB now but I have not shot it that way yet to see how it feels and functions.
I may upgrade to a aftermarket but I also may want to try production class this summer and a trigger change would be a NO NO.

G

I’m not sure how get the super light stock trigger, you can remove the blade and spring but then your maybe not factory any more.

When I shot factory class I lightened trigger the most I could without ADs or misfires and didn’t try to free recoil a factory stock, spent more time on loading good ammunition.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help