Savage LRPV 6mm BR
- Thread starter Gary C
- Start date
43 Deg here in central MA so I was able to get to the range for my first load testing.
I shot the 108 Bergers over 28 GR IMR 4895 and had great results as previously posted.
I went up in .030 increments and saw right away that the rifle likes the Bergers and the 4895.
I started at 28 gr again and the group on five at that charge was right where it shot last time out .550.
When to 28.3 and was shocked with a .239 group.
Went to 28.6 and the group opened up to .646.
28.9 was .765
29.2 was .780
So i guess I will load 20 rounds at 28.3 and see how consistent that load is out of this rifle.
I guess if the groups stay under a half inch I will start moving the bullet in and out in .002 increments.
The trigger feels OK at slightly under a pound so I wil leave it alone for now.
I shot the 108 Bergers over 28 GR IMR 4895 and had great results as previously posted.
I went up in .030 increments and saw right away that the rifle likes the Bergers and the 4895.
I started at 28 gr again and the group on five at that charge was right where it shot last time out .550.
When to 28.3 and was shocked with a .239 group.
Went to 28.6 and the group opened up to .646.
28.9 was .765
29.2 was .780
So i guess I will load 20 rounds at 28.3 and see how consistent that load is out of this rifle.
I guess if the groups stay under a half inch I will start moving the bullet in and out in .002 increments.
The trigger feels OK at slightly under a pound so I wil leave it alone for now.
rjtfroggy
Gold $$ Contributor
Gary all my Savages shot there best right at .018 off the lands, give it a try.
If you haven't already go to www.savageshooters.com and read up on all things Savage.
If you haven't already go to www.savageshooters.com and read up on all things Savage.
I just pin my blade back behind the trigger with a small round piece of plastic. Mine is set at 6 oz according to the scale.
I've had some success with getting the accutrigger lighter and it's reliable. Still not as good as my brother's Rifle Basix or others I'm sure.
I started with the competition one. Rather than cut the main spring I ground about .10" off the top of the trigger body where the spring threads in. This allows the main spring to be backed off more. Unfortunately the spring for the blade was now too strong and it just wouldn't work. It felt kind of out of balance.
Success came by changing out the blade spring with one from the hardware store. I don't remember the number or anything else. I just bought several that were close and cut and played with them until it worked right. Plain coil springs like this are cheap.
IIRC it's about 4.5oz now? The advantage in my mind is you can return it to original very easily. You haven't cut the main trigger spring (which cannot be purchased last time I looked).
I started with the competition one. Rather than cut the main spring I ground about .10" off the top of the trigger body where the spring threads in. This allows the main spring to be backed off more. Unfortunately the spring for the blade was now too strong and it just wouldn't work. It felt kind of out of balance.
Success came by changing out the blade spring with one from the hardware store. I don't remember the number or anything else. I just bought several that were close and cut and played with them until it worked right. Plain coil springs like this are cheap.
IIRC it's about 4.5oz now? The advantage in my mind is you can return it to original very easily. You haven't cut the main trigger spring (which cannot be purchased last time I looked).
Last edited:
Wrench,
I will take a look at the blade spring Mod for sure.
The remove the blade solution is not an option for me.
I want a crisp trigger at less than what I have now and want to retain the Savage trigger just incase i decide to shoot production class in CT.
I am not looking for 2-3 OZ.
6-8 would prob be fine.
I will take a look at the blade spring Mod for sure.
The remove the blade solution is not an option for me.
I want a crisp trigger at less than what I have now and want to retain the Savage trigger just incase i decide to shoot production class in CT.
I am not looking for 2-3 OZ.
6-8 would prob be fine.
Wrench,
Kinda sorta looks like what I did to a Savage rimfire rifle That I have.
The rimfire rifle will only cock if I have the safety on at 6 Oz.
If the safety is not on, the blade will not travel to the trigger to make the shot.
The centerfire rifle is different, in that when I close the bolt when adjusted too light,
the blade can still travel and I can pull the trigger however I get a click with no boom.
The blade seems to be acting properly when adjusted too light for consistent operation.
I will look again and see how a lighter blade spring can help the situation.
Thanks, G
Kinda sorta looks like what I did to a Savage rimfire rifle That I have.
The rimfire rifle will only cock if I have the safety on at 6 Oz.
If the safety is not on, the blade will not travel to the trigger to make the shot.
The centerfire rifle is different, in that when I close the bolt when adjusted too light,
the blade can still travel and I can pull the trigger however I get a click with no boom.
The blade seems to be acting properly when adjusted too light for consistent operation.
I will look again and see how a lighter blade spring can help the situation.
Thanks, G
not to bust your bubble nor to tell you not to, but a straight 6br is NOT competitive at 1k. simple change to a 6 br ackley improved (6BRA) AND YOU ARE IN THE MIX!
Going from 7.3 moa in a 10 mph wind to 6.9 moa makes a cartridge competitive? I do think 6bra is a better cartridge overall but its kinda odd to say the difference between the two makes or breaks them.
300 wsm has like 4.9 moa in a 10 mph wind. So id say both 6br and bra are low wind bench rest cartridges at 1k. In low wind raw accuracy wins often. Fairly often even in higher wind. What's the saying? Accuracy is always there but the wind isn't?
Something to remember about springs, if you cut a spring you make it stiffer. Cutting may work to get a lighter feel at times, but it's because the preload is less. A cut spring is still stiffer.
The Ackley will agg better at 1 k but the straight six can hold its own pretty darn well.
Cutting a coil spring will make it stronger. However there's more to how a spring will work than just spring rate.There's preload and other factors involved.
Scroll down to the answer here. I couldn't find anything real concise. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/...ing that will,coil, the spring rate increases.
I experimented with springs years ago while trying to find stronger springs for the forks of my dirt bike. After reading some smart guys comment I cut 3" off the springs and replaced those 3" with spacers. It worked perfectly, just what I needed.
Try an experiment with springs out of ball point pens. Get 2 identical springs and cut one in half. Push them against each other. Which deflects more? The full length one.
I'm not familiar with 1911's so not sure if I can relate to that question.
Scroll down to the answer here. I couldn't find anything real concise. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/...ing that will,coil, the spring rate increases.
I experimented with springs years ago while trying to find stronger springs for the forks of my dirt bike. After reading some smart guys comment I cut 3" off the springs and replaced those 3" with spacers. It worked perfectly, just what I needed.
Try an experiment with springs out of ball point pens. Get 2 identical springs and cut one in half. Push them against each other. Which deflects more? The full length one.
I'm not familiar with 1911's so not sure if I can relate to that question.
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