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savage and headspaceing? ******questions added*********

1. i have herd people say that headspacing a savage is a lot different then other rifles. how so?

i am rebarreling a 30-06 savage to 7rem mag. i am turning down the blank right now, and i will soon be threading and chambering the barrel. how do i measure for the headspacing for the savage? would i measure off the bolt face? but there is no shulder to measure to? this is where i am confused. do i want to screw the barrel all the way in, until it hits the action face, and then just use the gauges and reamer until the bolt will go on the go, and not on the no-go?


thanks a lot guys, brian
 
Hey Brian.

To headspace my Savages I drop the headspace gauge in the chamber and screw it down until the gage just contacts the bolt face. Some guys remove the eject but my gages don't hit it so I don't worry about it. Then you tighten the barrel nut to "lock" the barrel in place. The nut is like a floating shoulder if you will.

Check the no-go and you should be in business.
 
You have 2 options. You can turn the bbl blank so it has a shoulder like a Rem, Win etc. You would need to measure the distance from the recoil lug front face to the bolt face and set up the headspace that way. You want about .005" clearance between the front face of the bolt head and the back end of the bbl.

On the original Savage set up you turn some amount of excess thread for the nut and set up the headspace so that the front face of the bolt head has the .005" clearance. Just measure the bolt face depth, add .005 and that is the amount the headspace gauge should protrude from the chamber.

I thought that when I got my own lathe that I would be eliminating the nut on any Savage bbls I did but what has actually happened is that I am installing the PacNor Rem nut on my 40x rimfire rebarrels :).
 
Brian:

The Savage is the easiest rifle on the market to headspace. Measure the distance between the bolt face and bolt front. Add .010 and leave the case sticking out the back of the barrel that amount. This means when your case gage bottoms out you will have about ..009 to .010 space between the front of the bolt and the barrel tendon.

Rustystud
 
when reaming the barrel, do i want to use the go gauge as the cartridge to measure the measurment i get from the bolt face to the front of the bolt? or do i want to use an empty sized case?? thanks guys, for all your help, brian

also, many of you know, that the barrel i am using was chambered in 7stw. i am going a bit shorter with 7 mmrem mag. i was goint to cut 1 inch off the barrel after i get it profiled. if i did my math right, this should give me a whole new chamber, and throat, but not be to harsh on the reamer, and give me the most possible lenght when i am done. does this sound right to you, or should i cut a bit more.
 
as too the question above, and not wanting to start a new post, i also wanted to know if it were possible to drill out the firing pin hole on the new magnum head i have.,its a smalll pin) i was told from midwayusa that i can not return the part due to time expireance, and i have the old stlye large pin firing pin. and i dont really have the money right now to by a new firing pin assembly. i now i can do it, i just want to make sure its safe. thanks, brian
 
You can buy just the firing pin itself for about $9.00. While you are changing it you can adjust the firing pin protusion and work on the cocking ramp .
 
where can i find one. i have been tld that savage makes that a gunsmith only part? thats what i was told when i put a call into savage's tech line, and talked to a higher up, cause i didnt believe it myself. thanks, brian
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=9&Categoryid=18209&categorystring=10636***10560***9146***11790***

If you get one from SSS you might also want to get one of his recoil lugs.
 

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