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Savage Actions?

I have thought of Savage as a low quality brand, but after reading on the forum i have changed my mind about it.
You guys got me thinking a little bit, i have been looking for a Rem 700 or a Sako action to build a varmint gun.
But here in Sweden Rem and Sako are much more expensive than Savage for example. And that suits me just fine because i don't have a big budget to work with. But, which Savage-actions are worth the money and effort to build on? I guess they are not all good. I read about the 110 action, is that any good?
 
Hi Eskimo:

The premier Savage action is the Model 12,short) or 112,long). Especially in the single-shot version which does not have a cut-out for the magazine. These actions are incredibly strong, have a fairly good choice of custom parts, and can be made to shoot as good as any action out there. Good luck with your project.
 
If you're not a gunsmth or have a lathe sitting around, and know how to use it, you can't beat a Savage action. The barrel swap takes about 15 to 20 min. to change as well as the bolt head. It's so easy that you want to switch it 2 or 3 times, just because you can. Changing calibers is a "snap".
Got a 110 that has been changed 3 times so far and looks like I'll do it again in a few days.:D
Started out as a .223. Got a different barrel in the same caliber. Changed that to a .221 Fireball. Now it's going to be changed to a 6BR.,what else ;))
Got a 16 FSS that "was" a .204. Never fired it. Pulled the barrel and stock and sold them. Switched it to .223.
Got a Remington XP 100 that I shipped out to be changed over to a rifle. Love them all but the Savage is a "do it yourself" rig.
Love that Savage. You can get 2 for the price you'de pay for other brands. And when your Savage out shoots the big $$$ rigs, it puts a big :D on your face and the other guy, well:, Kinda makes your day!
 
It's really kind of amazing how well a Savage can shoot once you've replaced the factory tube with a good custom such as Hart, PacNor, Broughton. PacNor offers a "Prefit" option that really is plug 'n play. Loosen barrel nut, remove old barrel. Screw in new barrel, part way, put in a piece of sized brass, and snug the barrel down on it. Tighten barrel nut and go shooting.

Some Savages can shoot pretty well with the factory barrels. But they tend to foul a LOT, and you won't get the consistency you get with a better barrel. Here's NINE three-shot groups during load testing with PacNor 3groove 6BR barrel. Everything went mid-twos to low threes at 100 yards.

Savage_Targetx350.jpg


Close-up:

Savage_MatchLoadx300.jpg
 
Barrel nut torque? Tighten it up a bit and give it a little tap! No need to jump on it. Some of the factory nuts are so tight that you almost have to cut them off! When I pulled mine off yesterday, I gave it a little "rap" and off it came. Folks are using a "dead blow" hammers with a soft face. That won't always transfer the shock to the barrel nut wrench. If it's real tight, the shock from a "steel" hammer will do the job. And make sure you put some lube on the barrel threads when it goes back on. A good gun oil will work. Set your head space and snug up the nut. If the measurement is where you like it, tap the wrench a little and you're good to go. A piece of rubber hose will help keep barrel from turning. Mine was wanting to turn in the blocks, but the steel hammer "rap" ended that real quick. And I'am not a "expert". Just been there, done that! ;)
 
Best idea with Savage when rebarreling is to throw away the lock ring; it's just another "floating" component. The worst component on any Savage 110/112 is the recoil lug; stamped out of steel sheet or strip, uneven thickness and distorted to hell.
Compare to a Rem 700; flat, even thickness, possibly cut from gauge plate, commendable quality for a factory part. Get a better Savage recoil lug made or make one yourself, and draw the barrel the barrel up without a lock ring for best accuracy.
Pacific Tool and Gauge make replacement recoil lugs for Rem 700 and clones; maybe they can help with a Savage substitute.
Steve B.
 
I agree that the factory Savage recoil lug should be replaced. I think, however, that there are two ways of thinking on the barrel nut. First, it certainly makes barrel swapping easier for the home gunsmith. Second, even if you don't swap barrels, it lets you correct the headspace or set it exactly by using a fired cased,as opposed to a std headspace gauge). Third, it increase the effective bearing surface of the breech end of the barrel on the receiver. Lastly it reduces the amount of barrel cantilevered ahead of the action which enhances stiffness.

I do agree with Steve that, if you use a barrel nut you want it faced so it is square to the receiver.

I'm not saying a barrel nut is clearly superior to a conventional shoulder--just opining that there are things to be said for a barrel nut. I also find it interesting that some of the rail gun and heavy gun guys are experimenting with barrel nuts as well as sleeved barrels. The latter hold the barrel in tension and the sleeve in compression, creating a very rigid barrel system.
 
The Savage single shot action is hard to beat if you want easy switch barrel capability. With a little work, a precision ground recoil lug, and a Pac Nor barrel, the average shooter can have an accurate and relatively inexpensive package.
 

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