Ruger barrel on Savage action

[TRECustom]

Just finished fitting the Jarvis .17 HMR 77/22M barrel (in another thread), to an older Savage 93R17 action. (The one with the larger, stepped barrel shank). The MK II could be done, but the shank is longer and looks like it would get into the Ruger clamping notch unless the lip is machined off the MK II receiver and then the barrel tenon could be shortened. The Ruger and Savage tenons are nominally the same diameter, so all that has to be done is setting the shoulder back on the Ruger barrel until the HMR headspaces, then milling the flat for the Savage jam bolt and drilling the lock pin hole. The extractor notches on the Jarvis barrel aren't identical to the Savage, but they worked just fine.

It's a really easy job, and was important because I wanted to see if I could adapt a Lilja pre-cut 77/22M barrel to the Savage. Lilja doesn't make a pre-cut Savage barrel. The 93R17 receiver will take a .22 WRM or a .17 HMR barrel, so either one could be fitted, and it's much quicker than starting with a blank.

I don't know if this can be done on a .22 L/R. I don't have a Ruger 77/22 or a Savage .22L/R to check tenon dimensions on.

An interesting project that has gone very well. Once I get it bedded into the Boyd's stock, I'll find out how it shoots. The Jarvis may not be any better than the Savage barrel, but the Lilja is.

Tom

 

[Shynloco]

Tom,
Since nobody has chimed in on your comments, I have to ask...it is no mystery that Lilja barrels are amongst the finest available, especially if accuracy is your thing. I know their barrels are not "pre-cut", but why not have a competent Gunsmith cut and mount a Lilja Match grade barrel and mount on your Savage receiver? Just asking!

 

[TRECustom]

Shynloco, The biggest advantage for me in using one of Lilja's pre-cut Ruger barrels is that I don't have to make the setup and mill the extractor cuts. Other than that , getting a blank is about a break-even proposition. The pre-cut barrel is about $50 more than a blank, and is the same quality. The extractor cut setup and milling takes me about 2 hrs, so sometimes it would be worth it. Milling the flat on the bottom of the tenon, and then drilling the lockpin hole are quick and easy to do, and they have to be done to any barrel.

The Jarvis barrel only cost me $150, and looks like with a good break-in I have a chance at 1/2 moa, so it may end up saving me about $200. But mainly, I wanted to let anyone know that a 77/22M barrel could be fitted into a Savage 93R if they wanted to.

Good shooting, Tom

 

[Shynloco]

Evening Tom,
Thx for taking the time to explain. Makes sense when you have the where with all to make those kinds of changes. Hope that baby lives up to your expectations long term. BTW, my only rub with Lilja barrels is it takes so darn long for them to make up barrels these days. I REALLY wanted one for a 6.5 conversion my Gunsmith is working on, but they gave me a 24 week waiting period. Guess that tells me how busy they are or how far down the pole of importance I am. Hart built me what I neede d(Match Grade Quality) within 8 weeks which was faster (by light years) than all the top barrel companies I called.

Take care.

 

[TRECustom]

The first Lilja barrel I ever ordered was delivered in 7 weeks! The last one was 16 weeks. Unless they have what you want in "in stock" barrels or surplus barrels, you're in for a long wait. However, on 2 occasions, I know of Lilja calling and telling a customer that his barrel had been finished, but didn't meet specs, and they would expedite its replacement. Which they did, but it was still several weeks. I'm not sure how many stress relief treatments his barrels get, but I do know that it is a factor in the delivery committment. Also I have heard that they are not offended when you call for an update on progress, and they don't shine you on about the expected delivery date.

Bottom line for me, if you can stand the long delivery, get a Lilja. If not, shop Hart, Krieger, Bartlein, etc.... I don't think you can go wrong with any one of these. I would include Obermeyer, but I've heard they won't even commit to a delivery. I haven't tried. Something I have tried though is spinning all barrels between centers in the lathe before doing anything else to them. Lilja's will show <.001" runout in the middle of the barrel, and virtually no runout at either end. Every other barrel I've checked had from .002" in the middle to .055"! on one factory Remington sporter wt barrel, and .0075" to .014" on (6) Sendero barrels. I don't know what an effective limit is for barrel straightness, but when I asked Lilja once, he said; why would you have any runout on a barrel? As for cut-rifling vs. button-rifling, as long as they are lapped by the maker, I don't have a preference because I haven't seen an overall advantage for either one.

I have (2) Hart barrels, a 7-08, and a .30 x .378. Both have shot sub 1/4 moa when I could, and my best was a 5 shot .134" at 100 yds with the 7. The .30 x .378 did a .204" best. I think the Hart was a good choice, and I'd use another one without qualms. The delivery is good too!

Good luck, Tom