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Roll Sizing: Before or After Shoulder Bump?

Does it tighten up primer pockets?

Hmmm thats a bit hard to say ... I dont think it will FIX brass with loose pockets, however I feel it helps prevent them opening up sooner. My current Lots have been rollsized since first firing ... now most are 6+ and pockets are still tight! ... However I tried rollsizing some older clicking SAUM Norma brass which was loose in the pocket ... it fixed the clicking .. however the pockets still seated primers too easily. ( This older Brass had 6 firings when the clicking started and loose pockets )
So I wouldnt say it will "tighten" loose pockets ... but seems to prevent them from heading that way.
 
If nothing else, an amazing piece of engineering. Interesting video - well done.

I consider it critically important to have reloads without functionality issues. I check every reload I take to the field with a case gauge. It only takes a few minutes to assure that I won't end up in the field with cartridges that do not function.

At this late stage of my shooting sports avocation, I will not be considering changing my current reloading system which works well for me. However, I can see where this might have some value for high volume competitors early in their shooting avocation. I think this is an improvement over using a small base die for bolt rifles to deal with bulges at the base.
 
Haven't used my roll sizer yet, but watching F-Class John's reports on it, and reviewing the commercial RollSizer website, it appears it will not tighten up the pockets, although there is speculation that it could help prolong the pocket life.

My cases are Lapua .308, large rifle primer pockets, non turned necks, while I do run a hot load, I have been able to get from 8-15 firings before experiencing any pocket loosening. Clickers have been much more of an issue far sooner. So will be able to see what I get moving forward.

I would assume that caliber, loads, large vs small primer, and case preparation will all see different results.

It will be interesting to see what everyone learns.
 
Friend of mine was having a hard time with clickers. He's an FTR guy and shoots a LOT. He chased all kinds of problems and was about to buy a roll sizer. Turns out he had worn out his sizing die... So... before you spend 1000 bucks on a fancy machine make sure everything else is right.
 
Friend of mine was having a hard time with clickers. He's an FTR guy and shoots a LOT. He chased all kinds of problems and was about to buy a roll sizer. Turns out he had worn out his sizing die... So... before you spend 1000 bucks on a fancy machine make sure everything else is right.
Not an issue, I have confirmed the case base expansion as the issue and I have designed and built my own case roll sizer. As I stated above, it is accurate enough to adjusts in the tenths and extremely consistent. The cost came in at about 1/4 of the commercial roll sizer.

But thanks for the info.
 
Roll sizing is the first step that I do.

I have not tried it after resizing.

I started roll sizing my brass in 1998-1999 or so. Back then the machine was called a Case-Pro. Now days the RollSizer from Australia is awesome. I have the commercial version.

If I was starting over, I would take a close look at the one from Poland. Looks to be a better mousetrap.

Rollsizer
outaQ4n.jpg


CasePro
rr3ANfN.jpg
 
Friend of mine was having a hard time with clickers. He's an FTR guy and shoots a LOT. He chased all kinds of problems and was about to buy a roll sizer. Turns out he had worn out his sizing die... So... before you spend 1000 bucks on a fancy machine make sure everything else is right.
Or make a ring die.
 
Roll sizing is the first step that I do.

I have not tried it after resizing.

I started roll sizing my brass in 1998-1999 or so. Back then the machine was called a Case-Pro. Now days the RollSizer from Australia is awesome. I have the commercial version.

If I was starting over, I would take a close look at the one from Poland. Looks to be a better mousetrap.

Rollsizer
outaQ4n.jpg


CasePro
rr3ANfN.jpg
The manufacturer instructions say to Roll Size first, before bumping necks as the roll sizing will slightly lengthen the case.
If you have bumped/sized the case first you will find that the case is now back to fired length or even a few thousand longer giving a “crush” fit to your loaded round and of course changing your BTO…
 
I just picked up the Universal Roll Sizer. It does work, even on brass that clicked hard with the last firing and were bound for the trash. It’s the only thing I am aware of that fixes clickers after the fact. More testing to do, but pleased so far.
 
Even if it doesnt lengthen it reduces the force the FL die will see. So bump numbers will get more consistent.
Roll first as Alex says…. Also I would lend in to be sure to reset your shoulder bump again with this added rolling. The shoulder bump will change so always double check if you are changing your process.
 

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