removing case lube

[Martin52]

Been using isopropyl alcohol on a bore mop to get Imperial sizing wax out of the case necks after turning. It works but the problem is some of the wax gets pushed down into the case body and is a PITA to get out.

Have seen a few comments here on the forum that brake cleaner will do the job - spray can or liquid type ?

If its sprayed into the case do you just let the case dry or does the brake cleaner residue need to be flushed out ? If liquid, guess you could dip a nylon brush in it that's wide enough to expand and clean the inside of the case body where some of the wax ends up.

Another problem with leaving traces of wax especially in the neck is that it can retain the tiny ceramic balls that are contained in Imperial dry neck lube so I want to get it all out.

Martin

 

[Ropemaker]

Hope this info helps. Try a dry lube of some type and you won't have the hassle.

I use Imperial lube also, but not in case necks for the sole reason you have explained, it's difficult to clean up afterwards and take a chance of powder contamination if not cleaned properly.
Instead, I use molykote (moly powder on nylon bore brush 1 caliber smaller) since day one and haven't had any problems with contamination. It's a bit messy as a little bit goes a long way. Some folks use commercial dry lubes from places like Midway etc. which require dipping case neck into the lube, then wiping off after sizing with good results.
I wipe Imperial off outside of case after sizing w/paper towel w/brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
Having to wash interior of cases gets time consuming unless you are able to wash / clean a batch all at once, still have to let dry and inspect again. Doesn't matter if it's spray or liquid, "will it clean all of the lube out?" would be the issue. That's why I use a dry lube.

 

[amlevin]

Lately I've started using Hornady One-Shot to lube case necks. I bought a spray bottle a year or so ago but didn't like the messy overspray so now I just pour some in an old 1# powder bottle cap.

Dip a q-tip in the One-Shot, wipe on the inside of the case neck and a quick trip around the outside of the neck. I do all 50 in the block and by the time I finish the first are dry. I then just size and run an expander mandrel through as a "Double Check" for neck ID. I don't bother to remove the One-Shot as when dry it's only a thin film that doesn't catch powder when charging cases or burn into a black ring on the outside of my cases. For 50 cases it takes around 1/2 tsp of One Shot. No mess at all and no cleanup.

 

[wapiti25]

The question is about getting the turning mandrel lube out of the case necks. In this case Imperial wax is being used. I have heard that some are using lubes like Mobil 1 and that may wash out easier with brake cleaner, maybe then put them in an ultrasonic cleaner for the residue.

 

[dkhunt14]

I anneal after turning and that burns the imperial right out of there. Matt

 

[jimbires]

I use brake clean and Q-tips after neck turning , there is probably a better way .

brake cleaner dries very fast , you can watch it dry . it also should leave no residue . it is supposedly cleaner than carburetor cleaner , that can leave a residue . just be careful around plastic items , brake clean can dry out plastic causing cracks or melting . brake cleaner can , or will , discolor most items . I'm allergic to a few different brands , so I recommended using in a well ventilated area .

 

[LRPV]

I have been using PMA's neck turning lube. I use a chapstick lid and put a few drops in the lid and then dip the case mouth in it, run over the expander and turn. I then vibratory tumble in corn cob after I'm done and it seems to absorb what's left over of the oil and I'm good to go.

 

[Shynloco]

Martin,
There's a mixture of Isopropyl and lanolin that many guys use that eleviates the problem and is easily cleaned off. For myself, I use RCBS Lube2 which is much the same as the aforementioned mix, in terms of viscosity and molecular make-up. RCBS Lube 2 is still available at Cabela's even though RCBS has stopped making it. But whenever I'm done with any lubricant that I use, I always tumble the brass (probably 3 hrs) in a corn cob mixture that cleans any residue off the brass. Guess when the RCBS lube is all gone, I'll have to start making that Isopropyl mix that many of the more serious competitors use. Just something to consider.

Alex

 

[Erud]

Call me crazy, but I've been using hHonady One Shot spray for neck turning. I already use it for sizing and I never clean it off, so why not use it for turning? Works well, and doesn't attract all the crap to the mandrel like wax or grease based lubes. Spray a quick shot on the mandrel before each case and go. Any shavings, etc on the mandrel from the previous case drop right off when I spray for the next one. They shoot pretty good, too.

 

[Martin52]

Thanks guys for your comments. With the last batch of brass that I turned, the process was very smooth and the results were good, no galling, but each case needed to be dipped and twisted in the Imperial wax and a bit applied to the mandrel each time. End result - a lot of wax to clean off ! Will try some of your suggestions, the dry lube sounds good.

Shynloco - 50/50 mix of isopropyl/lanolin or some other ratio ?


Martin

 

[Mega]

I use Imperial Sizing Wax but I apply a smear only to the mandrel with my finger. As the case neck goes over the mandrel it does not seem to push any down the neck but leaves enough to lube the mandrel properly for neck turning. I apply it before turning every case.

Once completed I put Shellite on a Bore Mop and clean any residue lube from the inside of the case neck. White Spirits would probably do the same job.

 

[fayettefatts]

I use RCBS Lube2 which is much the same as the aforementioned mix, in terms of viscosity and molecular make-up. RCBS Lube 2 is still available at Cabela's even though RCBS has stopped making it.

I use it also and it is water soluble which makes clean up easy. First I've heard that RCBS quit making it. Sure hope that is not the case. Still on their website and Midway's as well.

 

[ReedG]

I use Lee Lube, a white paste that comes in a tube like toothpaste. This stuff is really good and I use it for all resizing, etc. It's water-soluble and wipes right off the case with paper towel. A dab by finger on the mandrel for neck turning is great. I never turn at high speed and in thousands of times have never had a problem of any kind. Once you're done turning, the lube residue has dried to a powdery substance that disappears with a pass from a nylon brush.

I have no idea what is in Lee Lube and have never taken the time to research it. Seems I read somewhere it was developed from some type of engine block boring lube. But, whatever it is, it's much easier to use than Imperial.

 

[amlevin]

I have no idea what is in Lee Lube and have never taken the time to research it. Seems I read somewhere it was developed from some type of engine block boring lube. But, whatever it is, it's much easier to use than Imperial.

Greases are merely oil based soaps. The grease making process involves saponification which is literally translated to "turning into soap). The lee lube is merely a grease with a water soluble base. For similar results try some Ivory Soap dissolved in a little water to make a paste.

 

[ReedG]

Actually found the statement from Lee ...

"We purchased the finest automotive deep draw lubricant and had it custom packaged exclusively for us. Lee Lube is pleasant to handle and you can thin it with water. Non-sticky, nonallergenic. Very little is needed; it goes a long way. Eliminates stuck and dented cases and makes sizing less work."

The automotive use is in "drawing" metal, not boring. Seems some manufacturers, like Mercedes, use it to shape body panels. My day isn't wasted, I've learned something new.

 

[M-61]

Martin,
There's a mixture of Isopropyl and lanolin that many guys use that eleviates the problem and is easily cleaned off. For myself, I use RCBS Lube2 which is much the same as the aforementioned mix, in terms of viscosity and molecular make-up. RCBS Lube 2 is still available at Cabela's even though RCBS has stopped making it. But whenever I'm done with any lubricant that I use, I always tumble the brass (probably 3 hrs) in a corn cob mixture that cleans any residue off the brass. Guess when the RCBS lube is all gone, I'll have to start making that Isopropyl mix that many of the more serious competitors use. Just something to consider.

Alex


Response from RCBS re: Case Lube-2

, we are not planning on discontinuing the lube any time soon!!! We have more on order coming in. Have a great day and enjoy your reloading.


Technical Service Department/rm
ATK/RCBS Operation
(800) 533-5000
605 Oro Dam Blvd E.
Oroville, CA 95965

 

[Bob Sebold]

I can tell you what happened to me and what I do now. I lost the 600 yard state championship one year by three points. The round came out with a huge puff of blue smoke. It went about 200 yards and laid there in the dirt. Primer was contaminated with imperial sizing die wax. Now I still use it to turn necks but then tumble them with stainless pins & detergent then anneal them. You sure don't want any die wax or other petroleum product left inside case when you load it. Bad Ju ju.

 

[Martin52]

Shynloco - 50/50 mix of isopropyl/lanolin or some other ratio ?


Martin

Found this link....: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Sizing

Ratio suggested is: 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to16 - 20 oz of isopropyl)

 

[amlevin]

Shynloco - 50/50 mix of isopropyl/lanolin or some other ratio ?


Martin

Found this link....: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Sizing

Ratio suggested is: 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to16 - 20 oz of isopropyl)

And it works great. That said, it's one of the stickiest messes I've ever had to work with and sometimes the lanolin won't come off in simple soap and water. This "brew" is the same stuff as Dillon's spray lube.

OK for initial mass processing of brass with a progressive (de-prime, size, trim, expand) like the dillon 650 but then it has to go through either an Ultrasonic or SS Pin "bath" to get rid of the "goo". Sure makes your hands nice and smooth though

I remember shearing sheep when I was a teen. The natural lanolin from their wool made my jeans waterproof after a dozen or so sheep.

 

[TimP]

I use imperial wax as well. Applied to the inside of the case neck and the mandrel with a Q-tip. The easiest way to remove it is to drop the cases in an ultrasonic cleaner for fifteen minutes.